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Some pictures of the thinking stage of drivetrain mounting. With this position, I will have about 4" from radiator. Using the engine mount you see here and will get one for the trans. Frame is level and carb plate is level. Any glaring omissions or potential blunders seen here? Frame center section will be reconstructed and boxed. Thanks.
Looks like a good start. What size olds?
Did you save the pieces that were cut out or were you going to fab all new for the middle of the frame?
68 350 Olds and a 200R4 trans. I have the center section, but it has been so hacked up I will rebuild it using 1" square tube. Previous owner did some questionable weld and fab that would have resulted in, at the least, serious injury had this ever been driven. M2 OEM suspension was removed, moved back 1" to center the wheels in the fenders and also moved it up 1" to lower the car some. Everything in mockup now.
You might want to think about going like 3 degrees down in the rear on the engine and trans to get you U-joint angles correct.....Looks good, haven't seen one of these Studebaker coupes for awhile, always nice to see something unique being built!
Looks fine to me, but since you have to rebuild the X-member anyhow, I would shove the engine back as far as I could. Just leave enough room at the firewall to remove the distributor and bolts from the trans.
Looks like you used the intake to level it so you probably got 2 or 3 degrees down angle now.
I would also push the motor as far back as you can. It'll help get some weight off the nose. I also agree with Dave, it's nice to see something different being built.
Nice work on your car! Your X member reminds me of how my 40 Ford was. Except they drove it years as a hack mess. :LOL:
You can get spindles from several manufactures to lower car 2"
Is that frame actually like it looks to be?straight and level without any kick up front?rear??????
The very first picture up top shows the back has a definite "kick up".
If you're going to run headers, I would bolt them on the motor before you make the motor mounts or finish up the crossmember in the frame or mock-up the oil filter. Matter of fact, I would bolt up the entire exhaust system before I finished up the crossmember. It won't hurt a thing if you have to move the motor to one side or another by a few inches. Some of the 60's Mopars had the motor moved 3" toward the passenger side of the engine bay and I doubt that you will find any OEM car or truck with the engine exactly in the middle of the chassis. (Picture a hemi valve cover bangin' on a big ol' power brake booster and you'll begin to see the problem). If you do this, move the motor and the transmission an equal amount to one side or another. Do not point the trans tailshaft toward the middle of the car or you will disrupt the + and - of the bearings in the u-joints. In other words, keep the crankshaft centerline parallel to the centerline of the car, like railroad tracks.
Another thought, never sacrifice a main component or system because something is in the way. Main frame rails can be re-routed and re-welded and sheet metal can be modified or eliminated altogether. Nothing is sacred when you are building a rod. Make room and make it work.
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Some frame pics. Removed the big X, modified and boxed the 40 stude chassis.
You’re making good progress, nice work.
Speaking of '40 Stude's, friend of mine has a '40 Stude pickup, still original, came with the property. She'd like to find a home for it, truck is in Wyoming if anyone is interested.
Coupes or trucks Studes are cool!
Very nice work! It looks like you have fixed the MII cross member and added some anti dive to it now as well?
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whats the wall thickness of the 1 inch retangle tubing?
I see what Jerry is thinkin'. That 1" square material will be about as helpful as a parasol in a whirlwind. You're wasting time, material and money. Use minimum 1"x 2" rectangular with 0.120" wall, long side vertical, short side horizontal. You don't need a driveshaft loop at the rear of the driveshaft, you need one at the front, within 6" of the front U-joint, to prevent the u-joint from augering up through the floor sheet metal and turning the lower part of your body into hamburger. It has happened at the drag strip. That's why there is a rule covering it. See Section 21, page 11, 2:4, Driveline.....
http://promod.nhra.com/userfiles/fil...en.%20Regs.pdf
The rule becomes mandatory at 11.49, but I recommend a loop on anything that has a U-joint at the front. Pay close attention to the material used.
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The part of the structure/frame with the 1 inch tubing has no triangulation what so ever and will do nothing to increase strength in any direction-lateral, vertical or rotational/twist-------
Thank you for finishing my thought Jerry.
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Thanks. Yes adjusted for some anti-dive. Have mocked up with a/m upper control arms and 2" drop spindles in the front, 2" block in the back. With the drivetrain in, the body set on, no interior, no trim, glass, wiring, etc., I have a 4" clearance to the street. That is at the front crossmember. I think that might be too low. The coils that it came with have one coil cut off. Thinking of going with a standard height spring and see where that puts me. Is there a common "standard"? Don't want to be scoopin' up roadkill. Here is a pic or 2.
put standardM2 spindles on it
I've got mine at 4 1/2... it's better at 5 I'd think. Speed bumps and some driveways are a "challenge"!
To "tech inspector": I'm not building a drag car. With the body installed, the structure is sound. A hefty trans mount (not pictured) helps the structure also. To Jerry and 34-40, thanks for the advice on the front height. I have the original spindles and may use them if necessary.