Am I being realistic in my goals? This is my first street rod........

So, in a earlier post we talked a bit about the car I was looking at that is owned by a friend. You guys have got me convinced that it's not a really good car for me. If possible, I would like to top out the budget at around $25K. Here's what I know I like, after extensively looking around:

Steel body. This is not negotiable. I'd love a 32 through 34, but I know that's not possible in steel at my budget, so it'll be a Model "A" coupe for me, due to budgetary constraints. It has to be a coupe, I do not want a roadster.

I am OK with fenders and a hood, but I feel more drawn to fenderless and hoodless. I actually have a photo of a car that I saw that I REALLY like. I tried to post a photo of it, but the forum told me that I was not yet allowed to post photos. It said that a moderator would look it over and allow it, but that hasn't happened. I'll try again in a separate post after this one. If that doesn't work I'll try posting a link to the photo. If that doesn't work, well.....I guess we'll all have to use our imaginations!:LOL:

I like wide tires in the back, really wide if possible. The tall, wide back tire, and smaller but not skinny tire up front look appeals to me.

Most of the cars I see are powered by small blcok Chevy's. I can live with that, but it's certainly not the most innovative, unique or exciting engine in the world. My dream would be a early 392 Hemi, but I doubt that's in my budget,and they seem very hard to find in a '31 A coupe.

Going against the grain, I would prefer a standard shift car. The overwhelmingly huge majority of these cars are automatics. I can live with that, but would prefer a standard.

With a fendered car, I would prefer a front IRS. With a fenderless car I would prefer a solid front axle.

I would like a very nice interior, preferably a nicely done leather. Nice dash with decent gauges.

I like most colors, but the purples, lime greens etc don't do it for me. I don't like silver either, and I am not a fan of flames or other graphics. I like the paint one color, simple and classically elegant. Black, red, yellow, orange, blue....most of these are fine.

Prefer a decent chopped roof, looks like 2 1/2" to 3" is what I like based on looking.

Channeled - I really don't know.

I'm in Texas, so air conditioning would be a HUGE plus. If not I will install it if possible. How difficult is that? I've read about the tank in the cowl on the Model A coupes, I know that'll have to be moved as the big challenge in the A/C install seems to be the lack of space under the dash area to install the unit.

So, with all this, the question is, am I being realistic? I know the 392 Hemi is a stretch and unlikely to happen at my price point, but can I get a decent amount of what I want at my price level? I know I'll have to give on some of the things, as buying used you never get everything you want, you get everything that the original builder wanted. I completely get that.

Please, if anyone knows of a good candidate car for sale please send them my way. I got a PM from someone saying that they had a friend selling a car, but I never heard back.

Any and all input is gratefully welcome. By the way, in re-reading this, please don't be offended by some of the things that I don't like that your cars may have. That's why there are so many varieties of cars, different strokes for different folks, I guess.

Immediately following this post I'll post a photo of a car that other than the Hemi is what really strikes me. The car is in a for sale ad, but I can't reach the broker and the ad is no longer on his site so I assume it's sold.

Thanks, guys.

Here's a car that has a look that I really like. Can't find out if it's still for sale. Does anyone know this car? Any leads on it would be greatly appreciated. Here's a link to the for sale ad. I have been unable to reach the seller, who I believe is a broker. There is no date on the ad so I have no idea how old it is.
http://www.americandreamcars.com/193...owcp021013.htm

Yep, looks like a hot rod. It's all about compromises isn't it? Blown small block, huge back tires.. Competition Orange. (or close to it) LOL..

You'll just have to keep searching 'til "the right one" is found. And balance out the wallet and what's available. Hope you find the right one.

We're just now heading into car show/cruise night/rod run season so start planning your weekends on getting out and looking. Make up some business cards that you can leave on the seats of coupes that fit your wants/needs, with a note asking if they're interested in selling. Here's one list of Texas shows - Texas Events - Car Show

IMO late in the season is a better time to buy, when the season's winding down, and the car is going to be sitting idle for three or four months....

The wheel treatment on that car is called "caps and rings" (dog dish hubcaps and beauty rings). It looks good with the solid steel wheels, but it looks even better when using slotted steel rally wheels from a Chevy....
http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...G3lms32gKA.jpg

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Based on what I described, is 25K a realistic budget in your opinion? You're all far more experienced and knowledgeable than I am.

I wish someone knew something about that orange car.........anyone want to take a guess on the rear tire size?

The budget should be fine (imho) you just need to keep up on the search. You'll find something that trips the trigger I'm sure.

And don't forget places like Hemmings also has listings for rods.

For my guess on that tire size..... mmmmmmm.. TOO BIG! :D It looks freekish in my eyes.. just my opinion.;)

I'd guess those are Hoosier ProStreet Radials on the back - https://www.hoosiertire.com/pdfs/prostr.pdf Hard to tell the size just from the side. Brizzio says the ideal "drop", or "rubber rake" is six to eight inches diameter difference, like 31" tall & 24" tall, or 30" tall & 23" tall, while filling the rear to please your eye.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

The wheel treatment on that car is called "caps and rings" (dog dish hubcaps and beauty rings). It looks good with the solid steel wheels, but it looks even better when using slotted steel rally wheels from a Chevy....
http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...G3lms32gKA.jpg

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I'd bet that would look really nice. I sort of like the artillery style too. Same concept presented in a different way, I guess. I'm not really drawn to the billet type wheels. I find myself looking more at the old school with a new twist type of wheels.

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Originally Posted by 34_40

The budget should be fine (imho) you just need to keep up on the search. You'll find something that trips the trigger I'm sure.

And don't forget places like Hemmings also has listings for rods.

For my guess on that tire size..... mmmmmmm.. TOO BIG! :D It looks freekish in my eyes.. just my opinion.;)

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Thanks for the reply, 34. I do keep looking. One of the problems is that a lot, if not most, of these ads seem to have no dates on them, and they aren't presented in any particular order of listing. In order to find a car that's newly listed, you have to continuously pore over dozens upon dozens that you've looked at multiple times already. No worries, I'll find the one, as long as I know my budget isn't unrealistic.

As for the tire size, I'm not sure if the rear tires really are that big or if it's just a perspective issue on the photo. I would agree with you, however, that if they really are that big, it's probably too much, although I do like a very big rear tire. That one may be a bit over the top though! :)

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Originally Posted by rspears

I'd guess those are Hoosier ProStreet Radials on the back - https://www.hoosiertire.com/pdfs/prostr.pdf Hard to tell the size just from the side. Brizzio says the ideal "drop", or "rubber rake" is six to eight inches diameter difference, like 31" tall & 24" tall, or 30" tall & 23" tall, while filling the rear to please your eye.

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Roger, that's great stuff you just posted there. One of my ongoing questions has been how to properly stagger the tire sizes to get "the look" that I'm after, the correct stance. If I may ask further, is this also done with a difference in wheel diameters as well? For example, maybe a 15x6 in the front and a 17 or 18x10 or 12 in the back? How do most guys do that? Is there a commonly used formula with certain wheel sizes and tire sizes?

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Originally Posted by Doug427

Roger, that's great stuff you just posted there. One of my ongoing questions has been how to properly stagger the tire sizes to get "the look" that I'm after, the correct stance. If I may ask further, is this also done with a difference in wheel diameters as well? For example, maybe a 15x6 in the front and a 17 or 18x10 or 12 in the back? How do most guys do that? Is there a commonly used formula with certain wheel sizes and tire sizes?

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I spent most of one car show season focused on wheels & tires, looking for the stance and overall "look" that was pleasing to my eye, then taking notes on the tire sizes to put numbers to pictures. More than once I was asked, "Excuse me, but what the heck are you doing?" :LOL::LOL: On my '33 I ended up with BFG P285 70R15's rear, and Firestone F560 145R15's front. Both are available only from Coker, and Coker's quality control is not what it used to be, IMO. Also, I had to grind down the calipers in the rear to fit inside the Cragar's. Tires for 15" wheels are getting more & more scarce, other than off-road aggressive treads and light truck tires.

Here's a link to a really handy list of tire sizes grouped by OD that Ryan (40FordDeluxe) posted some time back, that's very handy - http://tire-size-conversion.com/tiresizes/ It's fairly current on tires that are available on the market today, but doesn't embrace specialty places like Coker, Micky Thompson, Hoosier, etc.

For availability and ready replacement on the road I'd go with 16's front, and 16's or 17's on the rear; then shop for tires that give you the rubber rake you want. Just my $0.02.

Here's an example, I know nothing about it, not recommending it, just offering for learning sake: 1931 ford hot rod | The H.A.M.B.

As for pricing, there's ask and then there's actual sell..........

Doug, Like Roger said on wheel tire combo's, hit as many shows as you can...with a tape measure and note pad. I have had very good luck with owners measuring there cars if asked before you do, most are willing to help and flattered you like the stance. Snap pics of what you like and don't like.
I am a huge early hemi fan, if they are selling a car learn the difference in the earlies if you are in the market, many 331 & 354's passed off as 392's, all are good motors but value wise a 392 is way more $$, so know what your buying and don't get swindled.
Your price seems fair even for a early hemi powered car, just make sure you test drive it, and the longer the better as there are many rods out there only suited for a short jog and not a healthy cruise. Since you are in Texas I would recommend driving it in stop & go traffic with the air on and watch the temp, probably one of the main problems to deal with as A's don't have large radiators. It surprises many rodders to find out that hemis tend to run cooler than sbc's, it simply the fact the blocks and heads hold way more water, a little over 4 gallons to be exact (if I remember right).
Also keep in mind what you term as a "rebuilt" motor no matter what power plant. My term is new everything including a bore and pistons, a lot of guys simply hone the cylinders with rings and bearings and the motor is passed off as "rebuilt" the difference is huge and many are going to say it was rebuilt so many miles ago, but what was done? Do a compression test and leakdown test or take it to someone who will. If I was in you situation I would be patient, the season is starting and prices tend to creep up, do your research and know when you find your car! good Luck matt

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Originally Posted by rspears

I spent most of one car show season focused on wheels & tires, looking for the stance and overall "look" that was pleasing to my eye, then taking notes on the tire sizes to put numbers to pictures. More than once I was asked, "Excuse me, but what the heck are you doing?" :LOL::LOL: On my '33 I ended up with BFG P285 70R15's rear, and Firestone F560 145R15's front. Both are available only from Coker, and Coker's quality control is not what it used to be, IMO. Also, I had to grind down the calipers in the rear to fit inside the Cragar's. Tires for 15" wheels are getting more & more scarce, other than off-road aggressive treads and light truck tires.

Here's a link to a really handy list of tire sizes grouped by OD that Ryan (40FordDeluxe) posted some time back, that's very handy - http://tire-size-conversion.com/tiresizes/ It's fairly current on tires that are available on the market today, but doesn't embrace specialty places like Coker, Micky Thompson, Hoosier, etc.

For availability and ready replacement on the road I'd go with 16's front, and 16's or 17's on the rear; then shop for tires that give you the rubber rake you want. Just my $0.02.

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All good advice, Roger, thanks so much!

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Here's an example, I know nothing about it, not recommending it, just offering for learning sake: 1931 ford hot rod | The H.A.M.B.

As for pricing, there's ask and then there's actual sell..........

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Bob, thanks s much for forwarding that car for sale. I do greatly appreciate that. Guys, if you see an ad or know of a car that may be coming up for sale by word of mouth, please keep me in mind.

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Originally Posted by Matthyj

Doug, Like Roger said on wheel tire combo's, hit as many shows as you can...with a tape measure and note pad. I have had very good luck with owners measuring there cars if asked before you do, most are willing to help and flattered you like the stance. Snap pics of what you like and don't like.
I am a huge early hemi fan, if they are selling a car learn the difference in the earlies if you are in the market, many 331 & 354's passed off as 392's, all are good motors but value wise a 392 is way more $$, so know what your buying and don't get swindled.
Your price seems fair even for a early hemi powered car, just make sure you test drive it, and the longer the better as there are many rods out there only suited for a short jog and not a healthy cruise. Since you are in Texas I would recommend driving it in stop & go traffic with the air on and watch the temp, probably one of the main problems to deal with as A's don't have large radiators. It surprises many rodders to find out that hemis tend to run cooler than sbc's, it simply the fact the blocks and heads hold way more water, a little over 4 gallons to be exact (if I remember right).
Also keep in mind what you term as a "rebuilt" motor no matter what power plant. My term is new everything including a bore and pistons, a lot of guys simply hone the cylinders with rings and bearings and the motor is passed off as "rebuilt" the difference is huge and many are going to say it was rebuilt so many miles ago, but what was done? Do a compression test and leakdown test or take it to someone who will. If I was in you situation I would be patient, the season is starting and prices tend to creep up, do your research and know when you find your car! good Luck matt

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Matt, I would absolutely love to find a car with a early Hemi in it, they're just like hens teeth. You don't see many A coupes at all with them. While I'm not in a terrible rush for a car, I'm not sure one will pop up in a reasonable timeframe. One member sent me a PM that told me that they had a friend selling a car without engine and drivetrain. The car previously had a SBC in it with a automatic. I thought that would be a perfect opportunity to perhaps pick up a car I could drop a 392 Hemi and std. trans into, after some mount fabrication and modification. It's so much easier to find a early Hemi engine than it is to find a nice A coupe with a early Hemi in it. Unfortunately I never heard back from him, so the search goes on.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...specifications

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...er_Hemi_engine

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...specifications

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...er_Hemi_engine

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There's a early Hemi engine up for sale about 2 hours away from my home. It's a 392 and it's complete, needing a rebuild. I just put a bid in on it. Sometimes you need to just jump into the water! My only worry is that they weigh about 200 lbs more than the typical SBC. There aren't sports cars, but 200 lbs extra is a lot of weight. I hope the typical A Coupe frame is up to the task.

Doug, The one thing with a hemi, they cost a lot, but when sold they bring good money. A nice 4k sbc will get you maybe 1500 when sold (maybe) but a 5k hemi will sell for 3-4k pretty easily, that is if you can get it built for the 5k. but most of all it appears you are doing something you are passionate about, which adds fun to the project, something that shows when the project is done. You can put that hemi on a little bit of a diet with some aluminum accessories from Hot Heads also. Have fun! Matt
PS check out Hot Heads Research & Racing, Early Chrysler Hemi Photos for plenty of A bones with hemi's

There's the Gen I hemi, like the links I provided you, then the Gen II hemi, the 426, but they are probably too expensive to consider, then there's the Gen III hemi.....
Gen III Hemi - Modern Power Maker
Gen III Hemi Engine - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
Gen III HEMI Distributor Conversions - shopHEMI.com

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Originally Posted by Matthyj

Doug, The one thing with a hemi, they cost a lot, but when sold they bring good money. A nice 4k sbc will get you maybe 1500 when sold (maybe) but a 5k hemi will sell for 3-4k pretty easily, that is if you can get it built for the 5k. but most of all it appears you are doing something you are passionate about, which adds fun to the project, something that shows when the project is done. You can put that hemi on a little bit of a diet with some aluminum accessories from Hot Heads also. Have fun! Matt
PS check out Hot Heads Research & Racing, Early Chrysler Hemi Photos for plenty of A bones with hemi's

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I like that plan, Matt - thanks!

I am a new guy and tried posting earlier, but it has not shown up yet.....there is a 30 A coupe for sale in our local KIJIJI site ( a form of Ebay) it is listed in Toronto at $25 k, running and finished, small block 4 speed full fendered...........the reason it may be a good deal is the CDN money right now, 25 k CDN is only 19K USD..........and there is a free trade agreement, so hassle free to bring it home............. that would leave you 6k to make it your own,............or spend on the Hemi swap :)

Nice looking car, Davy, with lots of potential. I'll look into it, thanks for the lead.

Attachment 65384

Here's one that popped up on our local Craigslist - 1929 Model A Ford hot rod possible trade for 1932-1950 pickup I have no idea if it's built right or not, or any details other than what's listed in the ad, it just popped up in a search and I'm posting the link for you. The 454 in an A chassis? Might be a scary fast ride, but might be a death trap, too. Let the buyer beware.

Also, this link pops up for "search all craigslist", which widens your search area a ton - All of Craigslist Type in Model A Hot Rod and see what you get, but also try other search criteria.

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Originally Posted by rspears

The 454 in an A chassis? Might be a scary fast ride, but might be a death trap, too.

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454 in an A-bone, Roger? What kind of maniac would do that? :LOL:

Attachment 65385

You're right, though. Any car built by someone else absolutely requires a thorough inspection by a pro before you buy it.