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It's cold and wet here the last couple of days, and I'm a mile back from the blacktop so I've only run it in the shop with the new ones. The old CC baffles did not resonate, but with the windows down I sometimes felt I needed ear protection at WOT above 5000rpm :LOL: Got pretty loud, and I suspect these will be the same. Windows up it's not bad at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
To late I know but just to add, if I were doing that I would have drilled one hole on the underside of the header. Through the ring and pop rivet 3/16 - 1/4 steel, the baffle in place no tabs needed totally hidden. After all you are just keeping the baffle from blowing out on the road.
Yeah, I agree but that's how my first ones were secured other than with a button head bolt vs rivets so they could be removed (hole is still there, waiting to be welded up next time they're off). Problem is that the old ones were a thinner material and they warped from only one attachment point, and once warped they rattled. The guy at CC told me you always need at least two point attachment, and three's better, and in my experience you definitely want to be able to R&R them as the glass packing burns out quicker than you'd think... I'll try this for a while and see how I like them.Quote:
Originally Posted by angrystroker
I thought about the rattle when I did mine, now I did not wrap my own baffles they are the short ones speedway sells. The wrap was thick enough to take up any space. I have them in sprint style headers with 20 inch kick outs.
Going on 3 years now, the car weather considered goes on the road weekends. Driving not parking so plenty of heat cycles have worked them over so far so good. I think the steel rivets work with the steel in the baffle better then the aluminum ones, all in all I like the method you came up with.