Thanks Dave! Yeah, it sure does get in the way. I'll just keep plugging along. The real goal is the middle of June so I can make Good guys Des Moines.
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Now the page has flipped, how many of you are experiencing weird stuff being on back order? It truly is crazy. I'm waiting for a gas tank for a 71 Charger and at first they said 3 months. Yeah, come on. I get it this isn't a high selling part but 3 months? Rock auto was less than 3 weeks, so we shall see.
Yeah, Jack's '34 was super cool, and very well done! He never posted about selling it, but told me in an email back in 2020 that he was at a neighborhood gathering and started talking cars with a guy in his 40's. After a bit the guy said "...if you ever decided to sell it what would you ask and came to see it the next day. I sent Jack a note today, as it's been far too long between catch-ups. Hope to hear back....Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
I hadn't thought about the higher coolant temps vs optimum tranny fluid temps, but you're right. For a high HP engine or one that tows a lot, having the base at 195F to 210F isn't optimum, is it. That kind of makes a case for the B&M unit that Jack used. The fan is controlled by a dedicated thermal switch, on at 175 and off around 160F. Not saying that you need one in your application, but thinking those guys who are bypassing their radiator HX might like the B&M unit, but it's not cheap!!
Roger, I definitely can see how it is a great idea. I built a cummins powered suburban for a guy a while ago and we ended up putting a fan on his trans cooler mounted under the bumper. The cooler just wasn't getting any air directed to it. I put a derale thermostatic switch on it and it worked great.
Here is the heat exchanger in mock up. A lot of people put them on the frame rail some where but I don't have any room under a running board and I'd rather have it up front to get the best shot of air. It should get some since the grill and side grills are pretty open. I'm not sure if I can have it in front of the tube yet. I think it would be ok where it is at currently. Now to find my trans line fittings. Another item I hid from myself for this car. :LOL:
I was able to get in enough time yesterday to get the throttle hooked up on the 40. I might need to take 1 throttle return spring off but we shall see. I still have to install the transmission pressure cable, and have to trim the linkage connecting the carbs as well.
I've been trying to decide where to put my fuel pressure regulator and fuel log. I was going to put it on the RH inner fender but if there ever is a leak that is close to the RH header area. I'm starting to think putting them on the firewall might be the best option. I've been trying to keep everything off of it but unfortunately, I'm not sure where else it could go. Maybe mount them off intake bolts on the LH side of the intake? I'm also going to have to mount the trans dipstick on the RH side of the firewall and I really didn't want to.
I understand not wanting anything on the firewall, but I think that's probably the best place for the fuel log and regulator.
My Lokar tranny dipstick is a "firewall mount", but I made a little bracket and hung to off of a bellhousing bolt. Nothing wrong with a clean firewall mount though.
Another vote for the firewall
Don’t know if this will do you any good or not Ryan but here’s a couple of thoughts.
When I did the fuel block for the HEMI Tri-Power I built a couple of stand off brackets to mount the block to the intake manifold.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4892/4...c01e9885_z.jpgT1 by M Patterson, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4bfe73c4_z.jpgFB by M Patterson, on Flickr
For me it worked out well and the hard lines helped clean up the installation.
For the transmission dipstick have you considered a stock rigid dipstick and tube? A 727 dipstick and tube is also correct for a 46RH. When I built my 37 that’s what I did. OF COURSE it didn’t fit stock :LOL:
I used a very old trick to get it bent to where it had to go. I taped the bottom of the tube with metal tape and then filled the tube with sand. Then I used a torch to heat the tube (pretty much red hot) and bend it where it needed to go to fit. Filling the tube with sand prevented the tube form kinking when it was bent. I just had to bent the upper end past the support bracket to clear the firewall. I poured all the sand out and flushed it with carb cleaner several times put some paint on it and called it good.
Bending the tube past the bracket that bolts to the transmission meant the tube was still held straight into the transmission so the O ring was not put in a bind so it doesn’t leak.
Anyway just a couple of for what it’s worth thoughts.
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Thanks for the ideas and suggestions guys. Here's what I have came up with so far. I mounted the regulator on the LH inner fender just ahead of the cowl. It's sort of hidden but accessible for maintenance etc. I then made a mount out of stainless steel and bolted my fuel log into it. I made it to mount on 2 intake bolts and positioned it so my fuel lines should be the shortest possible. I was going to do hard line to the carb inlets but I still would have to have rubber to connect them. I've been waiting for -6 banjo fittings for a while. My plan is to have JIC -6 fittings with gates vapor hose. I was going to order all black anodized fittings but I think I'll use brass as much as I can to keep the 70s look. I also got a black cap to get rid of the red one.
Nice!! Necessity is the mother of invention!
Some day when you've got nothing better to do you can polish those brass fittings and hit them with some clear!!
Hard to beat Brasso
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33479873502...3ABFBMhL2ksoFi
Nice work Ryan.....it's coming together.
".....Hard to beat Brasso...."
Ya beat me to it Ken. I don't know how many cans I went thru. I stuck around long enough to end up a senior NCO so I always had a can in my desk for the youngsters to use after my "pre-inspections".
You could always tell inspection was coming by the smell of shoe polish and Brasso in the barracks.
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