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Man we are so swamped at werk it's hard to get time to werk on this.
I have a few small updates, and a ton of little things that don't translate in pictures, but kill a lot of time.
I've located, and measured 3 different model A's and gotten help online,to get accurate measurements to fix the body on this sucker.
It humors me how we are going to rebuild this car close to factory spec, so we can cut out alot of werk, and customize it... how it goes lol
man this thing looks like a porcupine
Nice jump on the repairs ...... looks like you'll be getting your fill of lower panel replacement soon.
Ratty 46
Glad you did some work on ur ride, I wished your wife valentines day at the swap meet you made her work........LOL
bradc
I'm a slave driver, lol
she love's to werk the shows, I have to fight with her to let me go to them anymore.
I have been kicking around what to do about the roof, buy the insert, or buy the tool to make the insert
well..... take a guess which one won ;)
shipped out today, I can't wait to pinch my fingers in to submission :D
:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool: Cool Tool
The build is to the point where I have to have the frame.... so we started on it :D
I took my cad drawling over to my buddy's early ford chassis shop to start the frame build.
Brian Cantrell of Car Company makes bar none the best Model A frame on the market, so nice in fact he supply's many hot rod shops through out the U.S..
Car Company is Pete and Jakes main supplier for model A frames, also their frame was recently featured on the "Wrench Clothing" build for West Coast Customs tv show.
So yes while we could build a model a frame in house, why would we when we can use such a talented company, with all the proper frame jigs, and fixtures.
They are only a 1/2 mile away, and you guessed it, trading powder coat for the bulk of the labor :mrgreen:
So on this one I'm the helper, it's my design, and Car Company is the craftsman, here's where we are as of last night
All the main stock cut to length, and the front frame horns cut to shape. I did get to cnc plasma cut the rear kick up gussets.
Not to bad for 2 people and 5 hours of werk
Well I don't know who's bright idea this was... but they need kicked in the butt.
Well, ok it was mine, I noticed a ton of rust in the gaps, and one thing lead to another and well... here it sits lol
time to get her blasted up, and repaired... I only want to do this 1 time, so getting rid of all the rust is a must
Yes they should have their head looked at.........lol
Well it is the best time to remove the rust maybe it's not so crazy.
Bradc
Yeah, I really didn't want to take the car all the way down... but at this point why not?:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
I'm still focused, and determined... however I will say that my skill set is going to be DRASTICALLY improved by this project:whacked::CRY::D:LOL:
been SWAMPED at werk, gotten a few things done
God how I wish I could get 2 weeks of no werk to really just kick ass on this thing
Got some more sheet metal werk done on the cowl
made a new rear sub frame x-member, had some 11 ga bent into a "C" channel, then traced the profile on the old one, radius pie cut the "C" channel to match the old x-member, and bingo, werkz great!!
So, 4 hours of labor later, and trading a favor to the sheet metal shop I find out I could have purchased this same part for $70:laughing1:
O-well
layed up the sub frame, squared and centered everything on the table to start welding her up.
Got the perimeter frame back from Car Co., it looks great!!
A few things I couldn't figure for are going to need changed, but nothing major.
computer can only get you close when your mentally challenged like I am :biggrin:
anyway, here's some pics
a few more
Wow Josh, you have really come sooooooo far on this project. The body is starting to shape up well too and the subframe will make it all straight.
BTW, if you are going to run a stainless cowl band on it, let me know. We are now "experts" in getting one to fit properly, after wrestling with the one on Dan's car for a full week. We finally found out what we were doing wrong and now it fits as it should.:D
Looking really good Josh, keep us in the loop, we love your updates.
Don
Looks really good! Just curious, how many degrees did you put your front cross member in at?
Ken
Thanks Don.
One of the things I'm debating still is if I run the band, or smooth that entire section out, give it a aerodynamic look.
If I go with the band I'll let you know, I remember it being a pita to get out.
Ken
It's currently set at 7 degrees with the frame level. of course this may change once I can get the sub frame finished, (which I can now do because I have the frame), then get the body together to figure out the frame, and body rake.
I'm still determined to finish this project, it is amusing all of the additional werk I am doing on this one. Alot of back asswards stuff I have to do because of having so little to start with, but I have learned a TON of new things, and know I'll learn a ton more before she's done, which is the most enjoyable part right now.
This is just my opinion on this issue. It's has been disgust here a few times and opinions vary. So here is mine, most cars sit at 2 to 4 degrees of rake. So if you add that to your caster, which I like to be around 7 or 8 degrees, your cross member would wind up at 9 to 12 degrees. I like a lot of caster, the car tracks better going down the road and it returns quicker after making a turn. The negative side of this is it is a little harder to turn the wheel at real slow speeds. You want correct caster without putting anything in a bind in your front end.
Ken
on 7-12 degrees, more caster is better at speed then?
how would this equate/effect high speed vs parking lot driving with a blown big block?
I don't want to road race, but I guarantee I'll beat this sucker like it stole something ;)
We went with 7 degrees strictly because that's what his fixture is set for.
However the x-members both front and back are just heavy tig tacked on the corners.
until I can get the body to a reasonable stage I don't know how all the locations and positions we currently have will werk out.
my dilemma in this regard is I can't fully commit to (anything on this project lol) how much rake I want in the frame, and body, until I can place them together and play with it.
That's correct, caster helps the car go straighter. Weight on the front end does have an affect on how hard it is to steer. These cars have such an engine position that the weight distribution is really pretty good. So as for as your motor I wouldn't be afraid of running 6 or 7 degrees in it at ride height.
This is my red roadster and I run 8 degrees in it, and my wife drives it to the grocery store.
Ken
very good info, thanks!!!
Project is looking good! Probably better than your fingers will look after that wheel gets their :CRY:
Hey what can you tell me about that nifty little laser you showed? I could use one or two of those to hard mount for my chassis table.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
The lasers I bought off ebay a few years back for around $20-$30 ea.
they are infinitely adjustable in rotation.
I bought 4 of them at the time, and don't regret it one bit, they are very handy, and bright. they came in the housing, just hook up a battery and go
9 volt battery power source, I know I have at least 100 hours on the current battery
Is their a name or part number on the laser so I can do a search and find them?
Thanks for the info.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
the only info I have is the laser part number which is 95-5022002
no manufacturing name info.
I tried to look thru my ebay, and paypal records but neither of them have the info.
there are a ton of lasers on ebay, and if you would like the basic dimensions of this unit let me know, I'll throw a caliper on it.
Sorry, wish I could be more help.
Got a little bit done on the drivers side quarter panel.
tacked everything up, and did a small amount of hammer and dollie werk.
since I have so little to start with in regards to a car, I have to basically get every little project half done, until I can bring the bulk of the parts together.
FUN!!!
Piece by piece and step by step is how it gets done! Looks good, so has your wheel shown up yet?
Kevin
LFD Inc.
yeah, the wheel has been here awhile now, havent had much time to practice on it, however I need as much as I can get lol
I have had ZERO spare time these past few months... which SUCKS!!!
A small update
I finally got some good info on measurements for the sub frame so I could put the bottom of the car together.
Once I triple checked all my measurements for accuracy, and square I started on my mounting system for the body to the frame.
After the 5" channel in the front, factory mount on the rear the rake of the body should look good. I had a client of mine who does first quality steel cabinet, counter top, etc werk bend me up some 14 ga as a "C" channel with the rake cut out of one leg to match the body rake. Then I cut out another strip of 14 ga to match the shape of the sub rails to box the under side of the body, and give it a nice clean look underneath.
first pic is top view of the sub frame mount sitting on the frame, almost don't see it
second is a bottom view showing the gap that was filled
third is a view from the opposite side showing how I need to do a little more werk to finish making this strong, then look good
First of all Josh, I apologize for totally forgetting to get you those measurements I promised. I kept thinking about it at home but by the time I got to the shop it had slipped my mind completely. I'm so sorry, especially since you were so helpful through that powder coat fiasco. :( Hope I can get you some info or something in the future to make up for it a little.
Glad to see you are back on it again. Looks like you are tackling the subframe and patch panels very well. I know what you mean about life sometimes getting in the way of what we want to do and the months and years fly by.
Don
Hi Josh, just found your thread and have read it through and I now would like to complement you on your workmanship (werk) and also having been a Panelbeater in a previous life, I appreciate the extra work in unstitching the panels to accomplish an excellent finish. Keep it going mate, (NZ slang)...
As for Pop Don, (Itoldyouso), alzheimers is slowly setting in sadly,:LOL::LOL::LOL:..
I hope this '30 Tudor you are building is going to be a keeper as with all the panelwork (werk) you are doing it is going to be better than new.:cool:
No worries Don and no need to apologize, like I said.... life gets busy, and things slip by.
Besides, for the powder coat help I was holding out for a kidney, or some other valuable transplantable part :LOL:
Thanks for the kind words Whiplash, I don't have any definite plans just yet for how long I'll own her.... just enjoying the journey, and education on this one. Well, when time permits any how
Believe me, you don't want ANY of my old parts. :o:D I really do feel bad for that slipping my mind though.
Don
Nice work, so far your kicking butt, keep it up. I really enjoy and learn from all builds.
Street glad to see some updates . Time can be a thing that has none left most days .
I love this tube bending software, Bend tech has saved me countless hours of grief, and $$$ in not making scrap parts.
http://www.2020softwaresolutions.com/
I wanted to put a wire run tube in the drivers side sub rail to keep the wiring out of the passenger compartment as much as possible. after 5 minutes with a tape measure, 10 minutes on Bend tech, and 20 min to cut, lay out, and bend I have a wonderful part to do just that with:D
design the part, computer spits out a sheet that tells me where to bend the tube, and when to rotate it, how much rotation etc. end result is the software makes me look like I have skills, even tho I really don't. Which is good for me as I will need all the help I can get for the inner structure, suspension components and roll cage when the time comes.
Once the part was cut, bent and verified I located it in the frame to get measurements for trimming of the tube, and hole location. then of course cut the tube and holes for final fit, and welding. as you can tell I got side tracked and still have to do final fit, and welding. to this point it appears it will turn out very nicely however.
That software sure beats the drawing I made on the shop floor when I bent up my rollbar last week. :o If a guy were bending up a few bars something like that would really come in handy, thanks for the heads up Josh.
Don
It's nice to have the right tools for the job. :cool::cool::cool::cool:
I have the full version of bend tech, but they have a hobbyist version for about $70 if I remember, what a good tool to have if one is going to do tube werk. the time and material it would save doing one roll cage project would easily pay for it's self.
additionally I am a tool junkie, I had to have it lol
Be hard to get any werk done this weekend with Columbus Good Guys PPG Nationals right across the street all weekend. but I'll try lol
I got a little more done today, funny how long it takes to do a "simple task"
So far in boxing the sub rails, and running my wire chase I have around 10 hours in both sides, and another 2-3 to go befor it's complete.
Once complete I can FINALLY get the body back on and start with all the sheet metal that's actually seen
drivers side underneath boxing plate. As you can tell I goofed a little with my wire run, and had to form a channel in the plate
preliminary finishing for wire run.
I still need to do some finish sanding
Passenger side boxed, tacked and ready for final welding and sanding
Drivers side sub rail with wire run in it
A little werk here and there, got the passenger side cowl tacked in, and started on the inner tube structure for the cowl.
this way I'll be able to mount all the essentials rigidly (steering, brakes, electrical, etc)
not to mention help the body keep its shape
I like that undercowl roll bar setup. I did the same thing on my 23 and it has really kept any strain off of the body. Your rod is coming along really well, Josh.
Don
looks really good! I don't think you can get enough strength under there, the more the better, especially when you start hanging things in there. If nothing else just the steering column can use all the rigidity you can make.
Ken