Advice please

[vht]

I've always had late 60's and 70's as far as hotrods. I want to build a early, probrably 40's, hotrod, sbc, 6 or 8-71, PG trans, with a good rear end, like a 9in ford. I'd like something that has some room and that I can install a cage that will certify to 8.50, 1/4 mile. I'll have my chevelle as a cruiser, but I still want to keep this 1 street legal. A fast toy in other words. I love the 30's cars, like a 34 or 5 chevy but there's not to much room there. What's the best cars for parts availability, and something that don't cost an arm and a leg. I know alot of the fords are sought after. A friend is building a 38 ply business coupe that is a pretty neat old car. Everything you find around here is going to have rust, so I'd like something I can get replacement panels for, chrome trim, etc. I'll more than likely use a camaro sub frame and build the rear chassis. This will take awhile, I'll build as I can afford, and hopefully I'll get ti done before I get to old to drive it. Any advice will be appreciated. Don't want to run onto a good deal only to find I can't buy crap for it. Thanks for listening.

[MelloYello]

Good luck with that question - - - - I imagine there are hundreds of different opinions on that subject but, if it were me, I'd try to find me some Vintage Tin (that I liked) in good shape and then make a plan and go for it.

[Dave Severson]

One of my favorite places for shopping these days is Racing Junk! (racingjunk.com) It's a free site, lots of listing and easy to navigate. There is usually an abundance of project cars, complete cars, and "rollers" for sale of most any brand and vintage you would hope for!!! Lots of drag racers and street machine junkies moving up or just changing cars and are usually willing to sell what they have and take a loss!
As with any site, there are some idiots and scammers on there, I wouldn't recommend buying anything without a road trip to do the see-feel-touch deal! It's usually a whole bunch cheaper to pick up somebody's leftovers or half done project then it is to start from scratch!!!! Good luck with your search!

[34_40]

X2, I think you'd be a lot further ahead if you could grab a project already started and then re-work it to your own.

[HOTRODPAINT]

I would agree. The cost of building one from scratch isn't very practical now. You can usually buy a running car for less than a build... then make your changes.

[406Rich]

Are you looking to go the gasser route or street rod route, just more questions....

[vht]

I want something that handles decent, no straight axle. Decent rubber under the rear, don't really want the pro street deal. Some of the 10 1/2 in tire cars impress me. I was thinking ladder bar, but they don't work good unless you have floaters. Probrably will go with leafs and caltracs. I'll research that later. Just dreaming right now, but when money permits I'll do something. That old iron just has a personality all it's own.

[rspears]

I have to agree, in today's market it simply does not make sense to start a new build from scratch unless you simply get more from the build than from the finished project (like me ). You'd be well served to spend this Spring/Summer going to shows and watching for something that catches your eye. You'll be surprised by the number of 'For Sale' signs you see, and if you see one that you really, really like ask the owner, and you may find that it can be bought, too.

[cffisher]

I don't think I've ever gone to a show where every car wasn't for sale.. Every thing has a $$$ just depends on what you want to spend. I, like Roger, get more out of building than driving, BUT I do try to drive the first set of tires of it anyway.

[Dave Severson]

I don't think I've ever gone to a show where every car wasn't for sale.. Every thing has a $$$ just depends on what you want to spend. I, like Roger, get more out of building than driving, BUT I do try to drive the first set of tires of it anyway.

I'm kind of the same, just a bit more extreme---one trip around the block and I'm ready to start the next project!!! My favorite view of a project is the tailights as it drives away!!!!!!

[techinspector1]

Take this from a crusty old rodder.....the rust you can see is only 10% of what's there.
Make it easy on yourself and begin with a Southwestern car.
Take this from a crusty old tech inspector....
Have a shop build your cage that does a bunch of NHRA cages as their specialty, preferable close to an NHRA chassis certification inspector who can go to the shop and tag your car before you pick it up. You would not believe the number of cars I have had to trailer because of illegal cages.

[vht]

Cage is no problem, haven't had 1 to fail certification yet. I'll just do a mild steel good for 8.50 if I manage to get this project done. I kinda like doing all I can myself, I don't have a bunch of money. When I started drag racing, I found myself learning to do body work, chassis work, and everything else. Took awhile, made some mistakes, but the only way I could afford to do it was to learn. Plus it's alot of fun.

[40FordDeluxe]

Take this from a crusty old rodder.....the rust you can see is only 10% of what's there.
Make it easy on yourself and begin with a Southwestern car.
Take this from a crusty old tech inspector....
Have a shop build your cage that does a bunch of NHRA cages as their specialty, preferable close to an NHRA chassis certification inspector who can go to the shop and tag your car before you pick it up. You would not believe the number of cars I have had to trailer because of illegal cages.

I have this issue with my Corvette. There are a couple of bars that aren't how the book wants them done. So, at some point I have to redo them if I want to go real fast.

[1gary]

We have made a whole career out of buying low distressed project rollers,finishing them,raced for a yr,flip selling them for a profit.
No doubt you can buy rollers cheaper than building one.

[vht]

I found a 35 ford slant back and a 34 plymouth 4 dr. Bodies are suppose to be in decent shape. The ford is rolling, no motor and trans. $6500 for the ford and $2000 for the ply. May go and look soon as I can, he has 2 plymouths, 34's, but the 4 dr doesn't do much for me. He said they had the suicide drs. The ford would make a nice looking hotrod, if it is pretty solid, is that a good price? I'm sure he'd take less, but I don't know how much less. Would the chassis, rear end, etc get me some of my money back?