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Geez, I really feel for you guys in snow country, those pictures give me the shakes. We were just talking about that tonight, we had two halogen worklights turned on us to warm up our shop because it dropped down to 60 degrees in there. We commented how we see pictures with project cars covered with snow and wonder how you guys put up with it. Oh, that's right, the ice fishing is really good. :D :D
On the other hand, your frame looks terrific. Starting to shape up really well. :)
Don
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
60........how can you stand that kinda heat? Oh..must be dry heat :)
Did a little more welding on the frame, rear axle and front axle tonight. Little more tweaking to do here and there, but hoping to sandblast a ton of stuff in a week or so. Then get some of this stuff into paint.
Thanks, Matt
Nice work as always Matt. I was seriously beginning to worry about you when I didn't see any new projects starting. I was also thinking about getting the cable hooked up again since its a long winter up here without something to watch. I feel much better now to have found you over here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowenbrau
Too funny....
Very impressive build, thanks for the post.
Hey Matt!!!
Steve told me about your car... so I had to check it out for myself!!!! I am impressed as usual!!! hope all is well...
We have been 30 to 40 below our normal all winter so far, makes my garage hard to heat!! Once you get used to working on your ride with 7 layers of clothes, it's cool, lots of pockets!! The frame is coming along great, is it pretty much all fabed up or do you have more to do on it?
What color is the frame going to be and how close are you to laying down some paint. Maybe I should ask if you are going to paint it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
I actually stripped down the car last week and have been pretty much finishing up all the welding and a few other things. Really haven't taken any pics because it doesn't look like I am doing anything.
I am going to be sandblasting tomorrow, I have a lot of parts to blast including the frame. Yes, the frame is going to get painted. I will be using PPG DP90LF for the primer and I am using a agriculture Case IH low gloss black paint for the frame, axles and other bits.
I should have some pics posted up by tomorrow night of the action :)
Matt
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Got quite a bit of work done on the chubby today.
Got a solid 3+ hours sandblasting today. Blasted the frame along with quite a few other parts...anything from seat parts to engine parts. Had a buddy from work out and helped me all day with the blasting and the heavy lifting.
After the blasting hauled the frame and a few other parts into the paint booth. Got the frame hung along with some other parts..shot 2 good coats of DP90LF. I gave that an hour or so to dry and then smeared a little filler here and there on the front, sanded that out with 80 grit and shot a couple coats of ureathane primer.
Tomorrow I plan on sanding that ureathane primer out to 220 and hopefully I can shoot a coat of DP on top of that and get into paint. Well see. :)
Matt
last pic with some ureathane primer sprayed on the front end.
Matt
Buck some really great work and fabbing . Car has come along great and fast . This kinda build helps in keeping us all going if not with the work but the thought on where we will be heading .
Got a few hours in on the chubby today. Nothing real special, but took a little time.
Spent an hour or so sanding out the ureathane primer up front with 220. Once that was done I shot the front end with a couple more coats of DP90LF. I gave that about an hour to dry and then sprayed a couple coats of CASE/IH farm implement paint...non glare black. Stuff was fairly expensive....about $10 bucks a quart ;)
I spent a few more hours this afternoon sandblasting small parts in the cabinet blaster. Hoping to drag the frame and a few other parts out of the booth tomorrow and load it up with some more parts.
Matt
Looking good Matt man....
Better get a dent in that can.... ;)
Got a few hours on the chubby in the last few days.
First couple pics are of that clapped out 350 I had. I kept hosing the block and head down with laquer thinner and scrubbing it with a wire brush. After I figured it was clean enough I sprayed it with some low-gloss engine brite foo-foo can paint. I just ran the overspray onto the valve covers, intake mainfold and timing cover since they were going to be coming off anyway.
The last 3 are after about 7 hours of work today. I was able to sneak out of work at noon and with a little help of a friend of mine for couple hours got a lot done. Just for fun I unbolted some parts off the motor and temporarily installed a couple parts just for the bling factor. The chrome kit is an ebay ho-chi-mien $60 special :) I friend of mine had some used performer manifolds laying around, I cleaned one of them up with the blaster and was able to get a used Edlebrock 600cfm carb for a $100 bucks. I've got a cam and lifter set coming, should be here tomorrow. Hoping to get that installed this weekend.
Matt
Coming along really well. How did that paint spray? Did it lay as nice as it looks in the pictures? Reason I ask is I'm thinking about it for my Dodge truck.
Don
I see from the pics buckroseau you are a fan of the Toyota land cruiser... My brother and I just finished his FJ-40. Love the build tread look's great....Ryan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Hi Don,
Actually sprayed very well...even better than I thought for the price. I had sprayed some ACE flat black rust stop paint a few months back, but I was unhappy with the color and sheen. We also sell this stuff where I work, so I thought I would give it a try. It seems a little shinier than the brochure. The sample seemed more flat, after I sprayed it seems more satin or semi gloss. I still like it, more of a deeper black than the Ace stuff.
Hope that helps, Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by LRS30
Ya..I'm a little more than a fan of Landcruisers ;) Heres a pic of a car show this summer than my wife and I attended. Truck is a 78 FJ45 LPB landcruiser I restored and the Wagon is a 1965 FJ45 LV that I restored also.
I have a couple other FJ40's as well.
Thanks, Matt
Pics really don't look much different, but I kinda like looking at it so I figured I would take a couple pics. I had a mechanic buddy of mine come over last night for a couple hours and installed the new cam/lifters I got, new timing chain, intake mainfold carb, etc... He adjusted all the valves and kinda got everything set up.
I finished installing the chrome valve covers, water pump, alternator and a few other parts. It's amazing what a couple hundred bucks worth of shiny parts, edle brock carb and manifold, how good they make an old 350 look. :)
Matt
Been a couple weeks since I posted any work...because I haven't done any :) Had some important stuff going on the last couple weeks :)
Managed to get a couple hours in tonight. Spent that time bending up and flaring brake lines, got all the hard lines done.
One thing I did and didn't think about it until now is whether it would work or not, (although I can't imagine why it wouldn't work) Is that I mounted my adjustable proportioning block with the adjustment knob and presure switch down. I did that to make access to brake lines easier once the body is back on, and to route the lines. If anyone sees a reason why that wouldn't work..please let me know?
Another question for the brake guru's. I was able to round up the front axle off a 53 Ford F100. From my understanding the 53 -56 Ford F100 hub and brake set up will bolt right up to my 40 Ford axle with new inner bearings. My question is: I'm I going to have a problem with my Ford wire spoke rims fitting around the 53 drums? The 40 drums are tapered hard so the dish behind the wire spoke rims has no problem clearing the drum. Just wondering if I am going to need a spacer like my Ford 9" rear end?
Thanks in advance, Matt
Looks good! I've had a proportionig valve mounted vertically, never had any problems... The brake fluid is under pressure, don't think it matters which way the valve is.....
Dang if you aren't rolling right along..........looks great. :D Your valve and switch will be fine that way. As for the brakes working with the wire wheels, yes you need the adapter that acts as a locating device for the wire wheels to sit correctly on the drum. Several people make these, like Rally America and maybe Wilson Welding. You said you bought a set for the back, so the same folks should be able to hook you up. If you don't use them the wheels tend to rock on the drums instead of holding firm.
If you need the bearing numbers and what mods need done to make the truck brakes work on the early spindles, PM me, I have it somewhere.
Proud of you guy, you are getting this thing done really well. The shiny stuff looks good on the engine too.
Don
Hi Don,Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
On the front brake drums and rims. I do have some thing 1/8" plates that I got the same time I ordered the rear 1.5" spacers. Those front plates have a little lip on the inside edge supposedly to center and support stock wire spoke rims. The rear spacer has that little lip machined into it, but the rear spacer is a lot thicker so it can clear that 9" rear end drum. I guess that is what I was wondering, if those 53 drums are tapered in like the 40 drums or big and flat like the ford 9" rear end?
Thanks, Matt
Matt
Your car is looking very good! I have to agree with Don about your building speed. I think I've spent more time thinking about my car than you have building yours!:LOL:
I don't see any reason why the switch and prop valve won't work like you have them. As long as you can get the air out, hydraulic systems aren't usually position sensitive.
Mike
Edit: I didn't see Dave's answer!
Put in a solid day today on the chubby. I had a buddy of mine that gave me a hand for about 6 hours.
Pics pretty much say it all. Majority of the day was spent grinding down the body and doors with the zip wheel. I fired up the blaster outside and touched up a few hard to reach areas. I spent about 4 hours tonight cutting out a few lower rusty spots, bending up some new parts and welding them in. Turned out really nice. Spent about an hour with the hammer/dolly pounding on the body straightening out a few spots.
Hoping to get a little more of the same done tomorrow and then going to try to get it into primer.
Matt
Looks like a good days work for two guys!!!! The car looks great!
The car is coming right along, but that snow has got to go. :)
That's a pretty serious compressor you are using, car looks to be coming along very nice, Hank
Looking good and I like the snow treads on the body cart..LOL
BradC
The car has come along way most guys would have over looked this one. I love old cars and have some rough ones but I don’t think I would have been able to see what you did. You really did good, nice to see you have saved it good times will be had in this car.
Richard
Nice work Buck! What is a "Zip" wheel? Does that remove rust without hurting the base metal?
Buck the bodies sure look good when there in that state . You have got more work done outside in the snow then some have in a comfy garage . That one including me .
I have been reading on the Chevy some and not many tech articles out there on replaceing the wood with steel . If i remember you did some earlier in a post and this would be a great Wiki tech article. This i think was a deterent to me when i was searching for a 30's project . Even this would give idea's to a Ford guy in getting rid of the wood inside for a more stronger steel framing .
I agree that is a sand blasting compressor back there . I had the oppurtunity to get one last summer for $600 but had to pass , I have no where to store it . Need to find a car guy near me with some property who may let me store a piece like that for both to use .
You have that baby straight as an arrow BuckRoseau, some hard work paying off there I would say. Well done.
I love it when the body gets to this point. It really shows the effort is worth while. Good work!
Managed to get about another 8 hours on the chubby today. I spent the first part of the day doing a little more welding and grinding, and some more work with the hammer/dolly...just trying to get things right where I want them.
I then got the booth cleaned up, hung up some parts and shot the body and parts with a good coat of DP90LF. Everything looked pretty decent. I did manage to see a couple other spots I spent a little more time with the hammer/dolly.
I let that dry for a couple hours and then shot a couple good coats of Ureathane primer. I am hoping tomorrow to get that coat of ureathane boarded down with 80 grit. After that, shoot a couple more coats of ureathane and do it again.
Matt
Few shots with the ureathane primer on....
Matt
Now she's really starting to look like something, but also all the sanding starts. Well done, looks great so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfco
What I refer to as a zip wheel is basiclly a 36 grit rol'oc disc on a 90 degree air grinder. Probably not a technical term, but a few of the local autobody guys around here also call it that.
I also use a 4.5" angle grinder with a 36 grit zircon flap disc...that works very well also.
Just make sure to keep moving a lot so you don't heat up any one area and warp the metal.
Hope this helps, Matt
Been a couple weeks since I posted anything. I've been working almost daily on the body....pretty much spraying sandable primer and sanding it off. Body is looking really good, but I still hate it.
Decided to take a little break from sanding today and work on my windshield...or lack of. :whacked:
From what little information I could find on the 30 chevy and since all of my stuff was rotted out and laying on the ground. I believe the way the chevy windshield worked is that the windshield moved straight up and down in a wood track. Since all that stuff as gone, and I didn't want any of that wood back anyway...I decided to fab up my own thing.
A friend of mine had an old Ford windshield frame that had laying out in the weeds he gave me. It was pretty rough, but the price was right so I would figure I would see if I could make it work. Pics pretty much say it all, I think I did manage to fab something up that will work. I used a piece of 1/4" brake line to make the receiving hinge piece on the body. I cut the length of the brake line a 1/16" wide and welded it to the body. Seems to work as well as an orginal Ford one. I am able to hold the windshield vertically and pop it into the track. I did have to cut 4" of width out of the frame since the chevy is narrower up front. I also took out about 4" vertically, but I chopped 3.5" so that was about right. I used a couple of cabinet slides from Ace hardware and mounted them to the windshield and A pillar. Just so I had something to hold the windshield open or close, looks kinda stock and cost about a total of $4 bucks.
Anyway, still need to sandblast the frame and get it cleaned and painted, but for about $5 bucks and an afternoon of work...seems ok.
Matt