Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree35Likes

Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan
          
   
   

Results 1 to 15 of 464

Threaded View

  1. #1
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
    Ken Thurm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    orange
    Car Year, Make, Model: 4- 32 fords
    Posts
    1,609

    One way to build a '32 sedan

     



    I have decided to build a '32 sedan. I'm going to attempt to show the build here. I'm hoping it will help some of the new guys on starting a build and planning ahead so when its finished it sits at the correct ride height and stance you envisioned from the start.
    I'm using a Super Bell 4" dropped axle with a mono leaf spring. So Cal spindles and fake Buick brakes (disc brakes inside ) with there hair pin radius rods, and a original Gorden and Shroeder cowl steering that is supposed to be out of an old Indy car with a original 17" steering wheel. The motor will be a blown Ardun with 3x2's. A Tremek 5 speed and a Halibrand V8 quick change. the body will be glass, copped 5" and channeled 6" with a finished ride height of 52".
    Setting up the chassis fixture is the first step for me. I use a brake repair shop lift on the bottom, it raises 32" for varying the working height. Then I made the actual frame fixture using 8"x4" 1/4 wall rectangular tubbing.
    I have used this fixture for the last 3 cars I have built. Since all I like is '32's I stretch all the frames 3" in the front for a little extra room, I move the rear end housing forward 1/2" so I wind up with 108 1/2" wheelbase.
    I just want to say at this point, you don't need the same set up I'm using. If you have a nice flat table and aren't to old to bend over it will work the same.
    Now to set the axle heights to give the correct ride height. The reason I use 4" rectangular tubing for my fixture is that is the minimum ground clearance for the lowest part of the frame. So all the measurements are taken off the bottom of that tubing.
    I know I will be using a 25 1/2" front tire and a 32" rear. So I want to set the spindle height at 12 3/4" off the bottom of my 4" frame fixture. and the rear will be set at a 2" rake for the car so the tape measurement will be dropped 2" below the 4" fixture and the axle height at 16".
    Now I know that I have to kick the front frame rails 3" and the back 6" to give me the clearance I want. The frame will also be "C" notched front and back.
    Ken
    Attached Images

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink