Do I need a torq converter?? (& sum pics)

Hi guys....first let me apolgize for not being as active on here as in the past. No real excuse, just took a break from workin on the T due to the high heat and no ac in the shop! Plus playin with the new bike and Vette and chasin the women has kept me pretty busy!! :LOL: Well, Im in the process of cleaning out the shop and preparing to start work on my 27 T coupe. I was gonna hook up the engine and trans and set it in the frame when the question of torq converter popped up in my little brain......Im runnin a bored and stroked (.060 bore and 400 crank) SBC 350 (also has a mild cam), hooked to a 350 trans and 4:10 gears out back. It's just a T coupe body on a square tube frame so its pretty light. Do I need to run a high stall converter or can I use the stock one. This engine and trans was originaly in a full size blazer 2 wheel drive if that helps any. Just to make this a little more interesting....here's a shot of the engine finally together and painted. Also a shot of the rats nest being cleaned out!!!:rolleyes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Tengine001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Tengine002.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by T42

Hi guys....first let me apolgize for not being as active on here as in the past. No real excuse, just took a break from workin on the T due to the high heat and no ac in the shop! Plus playin with the new bike and Vette and chasin the women has kept me pretty busy!! :LOL: Well, Im in the process of cleaning out the shop and preparing to start work on my 27 T coupe. I was gonna hook up the engine and trans and set it in the frame when the question of torq converter popped up in my little brain......Im runnin a bored and stroked (.060 bore and 400 crank) SBC 350 (also has a mild cam), hooked to a 350 trans and 4:10 gears out back. It's just a T coupe body on a square tube frame so its pretty light. Do I need to run a high stall converter or can I use the stock one. This engine and trans was originaly in a full size blazer 2 wheel drive if that helps any. Just to make this a little more interesting....here's a shot of the engine finally together and painted. Also a shot of the rats nest being cleaned out!!!:rolleyes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Tengine001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Tengine002.jpg

---

In a 383 if you have a cam that has more than 220 degree's at .050 then I would try and run one.
If you know the cam specs. that will help us a lot.

Unfortunatly I dont know the cam specs....Im sure its not real radical as it was in a full size blazer 2wd that was street driven. I think Ill just run the stock converter for now just to speed up the build process....Its easy enough to change out later if necessary. Thanks for the input!

I've been wondering what happened to you ! Glad to see one of those women you've been chasing didn't catch you. :LOL: :LOL:

I went with a slightly over stock convertor (2200) and I keep seeing on the National T Bucket Alliance where everybody is running ones around 3000. They claim it made a world of difference, and took out the jump when you go from neutral into gear. I have put mine in gear, but the wheels were jacked up, so I don't know how it will work, or if it will try to pull me through red lights. Just have to wait and see.

I know what you mean about a hot, non A/C garage. It was still 90 degrees in ours at 2 am this morning.:eek:

Don

Hi Don....I knew Id get a response from you! :) I actually never left, (been lurking) but since I hadnt worked on my T in so long, I really didnt have much to contribute.......Unless you want to hear stories about the wild women and hot nights!!!!:D I was actually afraid I was losin interest in my hot rod, but today, after dragging it outside and cleaning out the shop, I got rejuvinated!! I didnt get to put the eng/trans back together, but I think Ill play it safe and go with the 2200 stall converter. I still have to put the trans and eng together to help with the mock up for building purposes....but will change out to the higher stall verter later. I did go to the NSRA street rod nationals in Loisville and had a ball!.....I brought a new GF with me and she loved it too and is bugging me to get the T on the road before next years Nats....The finished cars were really cool, but I spent the most time (and most fun) in the back lot on the grass where the unfinished and flea market was.....But thats off the topic and whole nother story~~!!!!:LOL:

the lighter the car you will need more stall. the more cam more stall .light car with hi hp more stall .a ligth with a tunnel ram big cam low cr and more stall .i would call Coan. you need to have every thing the tire size gear engine size cr and cam @050 weight of the T and get one from them. there one of the best and will get the stall tune in for you anyone on here is just guessing less they have all the same stuff you have . COAN there not cheap but its no fun pulling out a bad stall OR getting one thats wrong , thrashing one out is no fun getting a rebuild on the trans and throwing out the trans cooler from trash out stall . been there done that many times... NO Fun

Thanks for the input Pat....Im not familiar with "coan" I assume its a trans or converter company. Would that be www.coan.com....??? or do they have a different website or phone number? The only info I dont have is the cam size.:HMMM:

it is www.coanracing.com will get you there.if you watch any form of racing that use a auto trans you will see a coan sticker on some of the cars