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No, not on either one, I bought them polished, on the roadster I had the inside of the rotors powder coated and chromed the half shafts and u joints. After everything is done then I will blow the whole car apart (after I put 200 miles on it) and finish chroming the uprights and the rest of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by godspeed32
If you are patient and buy some equipment yours will come out very nice I'm sure.
Ken
your hiboy there is that a brookvile if so that is the body im recieving in june
No, It was made buy ASC in Detroit.Quote:
Originally Posted by godspeed32
Made the seat riser out of sheet metal and 1" tubing. Getting ready to start mounting electronics and wiring. I'm trying to get all of the electrical in on one side so I have some storage on the other. The problem is the stereo and amp and satellite radio, it all takes room. Thinking about mounting some of it on the back wall of the cab behind the seat, I can access it by folding the seat down, I don't know yet. Any suggestions?
I like to hide as much stuff as possible. Sometimes it gets me into trouble but over the years I have learned from my mistakes. I am hiding all of the brake lines and electrical on my truck.
I love the access panel idea.........really makes it easy to go back in there if you ever need to, or for the initial routing of stuff. Smart idea.
I see you are using the same Optima battery I am. Everybody that sees it says it will never work, but I'm convinced otherwise, especially after having a long discussion with the factory guy.
Really nice workmanship Ken.
Don
Don,
Thanks, I did the same thing with the battery. I looked at that thing and thought no way, but I wanted it because of the size. The guy said the only restriction was how long the power cable was. He said try and keep it under 3'. We will see.:rolleyes:
Since you are working on wooding your body, you might get a kick out of this. I was putting my wood floor in the bed of the truck. Now wood is my least favorite to work with. I got it all cut and in place, then I started checking for clearance everywhere. My rule of thumb is 2" of clearance everywhere no matter what. I crawled underneath to check and found I only had 1 1/2" of clearance between the rear cross member and the quick change.There is only 7" of height in my bed I didn't want to loose anymore.
A friend of mine was here (retired carpenter) asked what I was moaning about so I told him. He said mark the interference and give him the wood. He came back in an hour. He routed out a 1/2" of the 3/4" board. If you look at the photo the small rectangle is for the cross member and the big one is for the rear end.
So I thought if you have any wood clearance problems this might be an suggestion for you.:D
Great solution. I may have some of those areas myself. Years ago I sold my router at a garage sale because I never worked with wood. Maybe time to buy another one.
I don't mind working with wood too much, it is a lot lighter than steel and the slivers are easier to get out of your fingers. :D
Don
I think you mean Odyssey.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
CRS strikes again!!
Thanks Bob, now where did I leave my house? :D
Don
Well, I'm getting close. The wiring is almost done, finally, I wanted everything hidden and be able to remove it easily and just plug everything back together. This thing will have to come apart completely at least 3 times before it is finished. All the brake lines are quick release so I don't have to bleed the brake when I disassemble it. It takes a lot of time but I think it is worth it in the long run.
Here is one more. The cab is the power source for the truck. The battery and fuse panel are under the dash, so the rest of the truck just plugs into the cab.
This is really top shelf with nothing but quality combined with well thought out planning. Thanks for sharing you pictures with all of us HRC members.
i love that truck!!! keeps me inspired
Just so much to look at on your rod, and all of it is so well done. Those 6 carb scoops look a little hungry. :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE:
Don