Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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kinda off topic for a second, but oldrodder mentioned he used por 15 on his project on the last page...does anyone know what kind of temperatures it needs to be sprayed at?

Don- as with many others on here have said, this is the first thread I check evertime I get on. It has been fun following your thread and I'm sad to see it ending, but now you have one hell of a nice rod and we at least have a few other build threads to follow when yours ends. good luck with it!

Thank you 35, I appreciate it.

I've never used por15, but according to the attached tech sheet there is a wide temp range, like 45-95 degrees. I hear it is good stuff.


POR-15 Technical Information

* Product Description
* Characteristics
* POR-15 Application Procedures
* Application of POR-15 to New Metal
* Typical Applications



* Which Formula To Use
* Advantages over dual-component Coatings
* Container Availability
* Ultra-Violet Sensitivity
* Laboratory Test Results


POR-15® PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

POR-15 Inc. brings the powerful technology of polymeric isocyanate derivatives to the consumer rust prevention market for the first time, a technology vastly superior to competing products currently on the market.

POR-15® is easier and less expensive to apply than epoxies, since it doesn't require mixing: and POR-15® dries to a high-gloss or semi-gloss finish just like paint, except that it cannot be scratched or peeled off.

Since POR-15® chemically bonds to metal, the underlying surface does not have to be sanded before application. As long as loose or flaking rust are removed from the surface, an application of POR-15® will not only cover up the rust and prevent it from spreading, but will also strengthen the underlying metal and seal holes by forming its own membranes.

POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from re-occurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated before prolonged exposure to sunlight. POR-15 is cured and strengthened by exposure to moisture and will dry faster under extreme humidity, but moderate to dry atmospheric conditions are most desirable when applying this product, because extreme humidity may cause an immediate surface cure, trapping carbon dioxide gas below the surface. When this happens, bubbling may occur. Extreme humidity at the time of application may also interfere with proper adhesion of the POR-15 coating to metal because it's almost impossible to keep metal dry under such conditions.

POR-15® is a paint-like substance which acts as a total rust inhibitor and also very effective as a metal filler. Its consistency is approximately that of paint and it has very good spreadability (one quart covers 96 square feet). POR-15® chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard, nonporous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It works by isolating metal from moisture; without moisture present, steel can't rust. Thin, covering coats are best. Apply second coat when first coat is dry to touch with slight "finger-drag" remaining.

CHARACTERISTICS

Solids - 74%
Vapor Pressure - 38mm
Hg: Boiling Point - 232°F
Specific Gravity 1.05
Percent volatile by Volume 25%
Weight per quart - 2.25lbs.
Solubility in water - insoluble.

Appearance: Glossy or Semi-gloss (black only) finish.
Application: Brush, roller, spray
Spreadability: 96 sq. ft. per Quart, 384 so. ft. per gallon.


Recommended Temperature Application: 45°F - 95°E


Drying Time: Varies according to humidity; average is 4.5 hours.
Shelf Life: Unopened can - 2 years or more. Opened can - up to 6 months.
Abrasion Resistance: Using Taber Abrasion Test, POR-15® passes 200 cycles with a 100 gram weight on a CF17 Wheel.
Solubility: POR-15 is readily soluble in esters. ketones, and aromatic solvents.

POR-15 APPLICATION PROCEDURES

Surface preparation:
Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and sandblasted surfaces are also good.

To coat smooth metal surfaces:
Use POR-15 METAL-READY to prepare surface before painting. Surface must be dry and free of grease, oil, or other foreign substances. Use of 'rust converter' products is not recommended as they may affect bonding of POR-15 to metal. POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with 'tooth' rather than smooth, glossy surfaces.

STIR CONTENTS GENTLY AND THOROUGHLY before painting.
Do not shake.
Refrigerate unused portion of POR-15 for longer shelf life.

Apply in thin coats, 1 to 2 mil thickness. Minimum 2 coats.
Topcoat when first coat is dry but with slight finger-drag remaining, usually 4-5 hours.

SPRAY APPLICATION:
Use 30-35 lbs pressure for normal gloss. Reduce pressure for lower gloss (20-25 lbs). Thin only with POR-15 Solvent, if necessary, but do not thin more than 5%.

TO TOPCOAT A FULLY CURED POR-15 SURFACE:
Wet sand with 600 grit until gloss is dull, then paint, or use POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer directly on the cured POR-15 surface, then topcoat as desired. NOTE: Never topcoat a POR-15 surface that hasn't dried, as this will ruin the coat already down.

Use POR-15 Solvent or lacquer thinner for cleanup, which must be done before POR-15 dries. NOTE: Organic vapor particulate respirators, NIOSH/MSHA approved, must be used when spraying POR-15.

Moisture will shorten the life of unused POR-15.

Seal can or jar immediately after using. We recommend placing plastic wrap between lid can and storing in a cool dark place.

APPLICATION OF POR-15® TO NEW METAL

For proper adhesion to aluminum, galvanized metal, and smooth steel surfaces, prep with POR-15® METAL-READY™ Rust Remover/PrePrimer. Keep surface wet for 15 minutes, then rinse off with water and dry thoroughly. This process will leave a zinc phosphate coating on the metal and insure perfect adhesion.

TYPICAL APPLICATIONS

* Use as a primer or finish coat
* Automobiles: fenders, floorboards, bumpers. trunk areas, engine compartments, rockers
* Trucks, trailers, agricultural equipment, snow removal and highway equipment
* Storage tanks, bridges, boats, factory machinery
* Outdoor sign supports, fencing, metal roofs, fire escapes
* Use to waterproof insulation or wood
* As a filler for metal
* Use as a bonding agent on wood or Styrofoam
* Prevents rust in refrigeration units where moisture corrodes metal
* Use on lawnmower housing to prevent rust; keep grass from sticking and clumping in wet weather.

WHICH FORMULA TO USE?

* POR-15® SILVER contains metal filler and should be used on badly rusted steel to fill small holes and pitted areas.
* POR-15® BLACK is used on frames, floorboards. under fenders, engine compartments. trunk areas, etc.
* POR-15® CLEAR dries to a perfect satin gloss, used on exterior surfaces before painting. Excellent for "touch-up".
* POR-15® GRAY is ideal for use on concrete.

ADVANTAGES OVER MOST DUAL-COMPONENT COATINGS

Better chemical resistance, better adhesion to metals, greater ease of application, strengthened by exposure to moisture. Reasonable pot life, non-shattering, great flexibility. No catalyst required for curing.

CONTAINER AVAILABILITY

* Pint
* Quart
* Gallon
* 5 Gallon Pail
* 55 Gallon Drum

ULTRA-VIOLET SENSITIVITY

POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Failure to do this may result in long-term damage to the POR-15® coating. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

LABORATORY TEST RESULTS

POR-15® was tested for 168 hours at 97°F in a condensing humidity salt spray (ASTM B117). At the end of the test period, coated steel was free of rust or pitting. Acid and alkali resistance tests performed found panels coated with POR-15® to be impervious to gasoline, oil, chromic acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, caustic soda, 50% sulfuric acid, and 50% hydrofluoric acid. POR-15® was applied over a rusty substrate as a finish coat (approximately 23 mils dry film thickness). The coating showed essentially no undercutting at the scribed area after 2000 hours in a weatherometer*.

A 2 mil thickness of POR-15® was applied to lightly rusted steel and then exposed for 1000 hours to a salt spray. At the end of the test period, no undercutting was observed at the scribed area. Recoatability is excellent. Laboratory tests have shown very good adhesion when applied up to 14 days after application of the first coat. In an actual Field test, a topcoat was applied 6 weeks after the first coat had been applied, and the intercoat adhesion was excellent as determined by a crosshatch tape test. A metal box used as a filter for raw sewage was coated with POR-15® and placed in service within a few hours after the interior and exterior were coated. No visible rusting occurred at the welded areas after a six month exposure.

A POR-15® coating was subjected to 700°F for 10 hours; it remained hard and showed no apparent loss of adhesion. A panel subjected to elongation was pulled beyond the yield point of the base metal without affecting the POR-15® coating.

* WEATHEROMETER -
Dew cycle XWR with corex D filter, cycle is:
1. 30 minutes sun, 135°F, 30% relative humidity.
2. 30 minutes dark. 75-80°F, 100% relative humidity
(achieved with water spray on panel backs).

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Copyright © 2005-2006 The POR-15 Outlet
Last modified: 05/02/06

Don

--------------

Don, I forgot to say ------------- when you started the T project (3K) you were gonna give it to Don, if I remember right!! Then of a sudden you decided that you were going to keep it for yourself -------- So then --- chuckle chuckle, the SKY IS THE LIMIT. heeeeheeeee. love it.
I will say, like the others have that you THREE all have a great sense of what's right and are super fine builders, from what I have seen and read in these hundred and eighty three (four) pages. And forgot to say too that it took me near as long to read them all as it took for you to build it!!!!!!!! And probably cost me near your 3K figure for paper and printer ink to record everything so when we get back to our project(s) we can profit from your efforts. Also ------------ Your Old Uncle Geezer, or uncle old geezer, or geezer old uncle, or whatever, (BOB), is sure SHARP --------- I have gotten more entertainment from his input, and other's adding to, and your reaction and response, than having a barrel of monkeys. And Don, I sincerely appreciate your very kind and caring words. God Bless, thanks. perley

Yeah Perley, I have to admit, Uncle Bob has his moments. He's been in Vegas for a while now, wonder if he pawned his car and has no way to get home.

I've calmed down a little over the bent brake line thing. Dan and I had no choice with the deadline rapidly approaching, so we straightened them out and made them work. He and I pulled an all nighter and just got in (it's 6 AM ) but we got all the lines run and bled the brakes. They seem fine, but we won't know til Sunday when we finish up the steering and he gets to take it for his first spin. Don was tied up finishing up some budget stuff for work, so he doesn't know we got his brakes done. He should be pretty surprised Sunday when he comes over.

Might have a YouTube to post of his first ride.


Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

He's been in Vegas for a while now, wonder if he pawned his car and has no way to get home.

Don

It's not the tables that'll take ya, it's the wheels......................

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

It's not the tables that'll take ya, it's the wheels......................

Now let's take a look at Bob's signature
Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

I enjoy anything that turns money into noise.(Like slot machines Bob?)

Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge( Surely not Texas Hold em Poker?)

Now let's look at Bobs' car
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...=500&ppuser=32

Bob didn't Capone have something like this.......its all adding up. Vegas, the vault, the car.......
Don hit Bob up for some cash for the interior!

Seriously, I think page 182 is the best of this series, because, Don, Don and Dan's cars all on there in pictures. I'd love to see a shot of all three of them lined up!

I tried to borrow some money from Bob, but his 75% APR is just too much for me. Then there is his Cousin Guido the bill collector................. Guido has NO sense of humor whatsoever.

Thanks guys once again for such nice words. We are going to shoot for Billetproof in March to have Dan's revamped '29 on the road. He has about 20 vacation days he has to take before the end of the year or he loses them, so he plans on camping out at the shop right after Turkey Run and hitting real hard on his car. He has the hard parts done, and Don and I are going to sneak over to the shop when we get back from Daytona and finish up the little stuff so we can fire up his engine for him. Don and I both owe him big time for all the hours he has put into our cars, so we figure once he hears the 455 fire up and run it will kick him in the butt a little bit.

I'm also pretty anxious to get started back on my '39 truck. That will be a fun build because I am going to do it in a very simple way, no frills, just semi flat paint and stuff like that. I just want to get Xmas out of the way first so January 1st I should be ready to start.

Don

Got to love outside vendors Don

I think that it's been the biggest pain on my last couple of projects. There are still some good ones out there, but we sure remember the bad ones the longest.

Sounds like your well on your way to making the run this year. I'm very happy for you.

Well i know Don's builds are not over . I still remember a truck and another 27 T he has stashed inside the shop . I'm sure he will be showing us pics of the cruise nights at least i hope he does . The family pic of all three and their rides is going to be fantastic mag material.

Was that 30K or 3K for the no frills 39 truck....LOL. Uncle Bob is that 75% above prime compounded daily.
Brad

Bob. I'm shocked at you. Have I EVER missed a deadline or budget amount?? Oh yeah, there was that little thing about $ 3K............... I swear the Dodge is going to be low key and low buck.


Today I called the upholstery guy and he said the T is more than half done, so I drove over to see it. Let's just say I wasn't real impressed with the interior job so far. I assumed every upholstery guy in the world knew what rolled and pleated means, and I even explained to him when I took the car there what it should be like. However, what he had done looked more like a sofa than a car interior.

The roll around the back was not smooth, but instead he had gathered the material up and sort of fluffed it into folds. The pleats are about 4 inches wide, and not straight at all. I really hated to tell him, but I have to live with this interior, so I told him it wasn't acceptable. I ran back to the shop and got some hot rod magazines to show him what a proper rolled and pleated interior should look like in a T bucket, and he said with the time alotted he couldn't do that kind of job.

So I told him to tear it all out and I would go with just the foam. I didn't want people seeing the car to think I actually wanted this kind of interior. Finally, we took a look at what was good and bad about the interior, and reached a compromise. The carpeting is ok, and the little seat pads are ok too............not exactly what I wanted, but ok. What needs redone is the roll around the top of the body and the pleats on the backrest and sides. I told him if he was able to get them looking as good as the seat pads I would be ok with that. Somewhere down the road I will take it to a shop who knows traditional interiors and have it torn out and redone, but for now it is something to sit on.

I worked on Don's T and got his steering column in and his brake light switch bracket built. Tomorrow the three of us are going to hit hard on wrapping up the welding on the steering shaft and final wiring. By tomorrow night he should be able to take it for his first spin. Here is how the column and gauges came out.

Don

Sorry to hear about your bad luck on the interior.

Most of the upholstery people in this area do furniture. They can do a passable job on seats, but I have yet to find one that wants to tackle a traditional bow type headliner in the 46.

I'm trying to talk my wife into doing the interior on my T. She sews pretty good(better than she thinks) and I might be able to borrow a heavy duty sewing machine.

Don's car is looking great by the way. Hope he gets to drive it this weekend.

I was really surprised Mike because this guy does a lot of the high end dealer cars in this area. He just put a $ 10K insurance interior job in a Mercedes, and I always see nice cars parked in his shop. I guess he is accustomed to doing stock interiors and custom stuff is outside his area of expertise.

I have to take some of the blame too. I should have taken hot rod magazines to him up front and told him exactly what I liked and didn't like. Maybe I should have headed down to Tijuana (sp) Mexico for a TJ upholstery job. If I still lived in SoCal I would have considered that, wonder if it's like it used to be where you could get a decent upholstery job there pretty cheap?

Oh well, live and learn. Gotta head to the shop to meet Don. Dan is coming over about two to do our final welding and wiring hookups so today looks promising for wrapping it up. After my interior fiasco we are thinking of installing Don's Total Performance upholstery kit ourselves. At least we are going to modify and mount the bed cover, that we can do.

Don

Don,

Seems like the proper time for the guy to say "I can't do the type of job you want in the time I have" is up front . . . not halfway through.

Sounds like an excuse, doesn't it. Reminds me of a quote I heard on The Unit: "The net effective range of an excuse is zero meters."