Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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Is your back aching from lifting all of those Hemi pieces? The heads alone have to weigh 150 lbs each. What is the entire engine, like 700 lbs?

I really do like the early hemis. To me, nothing is cooler than to look in a rod and seeing those massive valve covers staring back at you. I know the new hemis are great and all, but the first series just have a certain mistique about them, and I include all of them from the first ones all the way up to the 426's in that group.

Mike, I bet you find parts both new and used are a little expensive though.


Don

I picked the Hemi's I have up over ten years ago before they REALLY started to get popular (expensive) again, but even so they were kind of pricey.

The 3 I have (2 331's and 354) were all acquired through horse trading so I didn't get hurt too bad on the initial acquisition. Looks Like I got really lucky on the 354 I'm going to refeshen up for the 57 (it has fairly low mileage since it was rebuilt), it's been bored .040 (it's now a 361) and the rods already resized. It goes to the macine shop tomorrow and I'll post an update when it comes back and I start building it.

Yeah as far as parts, it's kind of an expensive build

Gasket set $150.

Rod Bearings $110

Main Bearings $110

Cam (only) $200

Waterpump/
oilfilter conversions $100

Pushrods (adjustable) $130

Valve Covers $400


The rest of the parts needed are on par with what it would normally cost to build most other V8s.

I got lucky on the intakes I have and have less than $100 in each (however they would currently go for $600-1000 each on E Bay).

Transmisssion adaptors normally run around $500, but fortunatly I can build my own 4 speed conversions for about $100.

But when all is said and done you just can't beat the visual impact.......... (this is the one that's torn down for the 57 right now)

There are two engines that really look great dressed out in my opinion. One is a hemi, like yours, and a fully dressed flathead is the other.

I envy for that one in the picture.


Don

don, you are not posting so you better be working.

Actually, I was. I stopped tonight after work and just got in. Didn't really get anything noteworthy done, but I was working on the cowl rollbar I am going to build into the inside of the firewall to support the steering column.

I ordered some steering parts from Speedway today (u joint, shaft, support bearing and removable steering wheel hub) and those should be in next week, Monday or Tuesday.

Thanks squire for keeping me moving though.

Don

Got an early start today and just got in a little while ago. These 10 hour days really tire me out, but I am seeing some progress on the T.

Today I continued working on the roll bar that is going to be shaped like the inside of the firewall and fit right up against it. I am going to leave it exposed on the interior of the car to give the car somewhat of a competition look.

The reason for the cowl roll bar is simply to support the entire length of the steering column. Most T buckets route the steering box under the floor, so there is no strain on the firewall. In mine I am putting the steering box in front of the firewall, so the dash has to be strong enough to hold the weight of the column and any strain I put on it when steering the car. Fiberglass bodies have very little strength by themselves, and even wooding them helps only a little bit. Certainly not enough to mount a steering column to. So the roll bar will hold the bottom of the steering column (I am going to mount a bearing there on a steel plate welded to the roll bar) and I am going to weld some support arms that go from the roll bar to a piece of 1 x 1 square tubing run the entire width of the dash and fastened to the dash, Then the rear column mount will have a strong place to mount.

I was going to get out the tubing bender and form the roll bar, but I found one of my Sons failed pieces in the scrap bin, and it was almost perfect. I just had to narrow it a little and put one longer leg on it. I joined the two pieces of tubing together by slipping a smaller piece inside of each cut end and rosette welding it in place ( I learned that term from Techinspector 1) Then I fully welded the tubes together into one piece. I also cut some plates that I will weld to the top of the frame and tap for threads. Then the roll bar will bolt to these plates and be removable with the body.

Tomorrow I plan to go to Home Depot and pick up a piece of plywood to start glassing in the firewall so I can then mount the roll bar to it. My plan is for the roll bar to become an integral part of the body when I am done, and unbolt just as the body does.

Here are some pictures of the way I welded up the rollbar, and also the mocked up roll bar on the frame.

Thanks for looking,


Don

I'll go with the Hemi but I have to add that there are several really great looking engines out there, say a blown 570 chevy with nitrious is truely something to see and feel. How about Bank'es twin-turbo sbc, 1100 hp!! Thats beauty to me! Viper engines are very cool to see, hard to say just a couple IMHO.

Very clever idea, and it will be nice and strong that way. I have always thought that a metal frame would probably have to be glassed in for strength. Looking good though Don, should be very strong.

Yeah Brickman, I guess there are a lot of engines that look good dressed out. Those 2 were just a couple of my favs.


Don

Well for todays update I am going to have to stretch it out over a few posts. My computer has been freezing up, and if I do one post that is too long it freezes and I have to reboot it. I guess I just wore this thing out.

As I mentioned yesterday, I went to Home Depot and bought a piece of 3/4 inch thick outdoor grade plywood to do the inside of the firewall. I also went to a marine discount store and bought 10 yards of fiberglass mat and a gallon or polyester resin and hardner. There are two kinds of resin, polyester and epoxy. Of the two, epoxy is stronger and more expensive, but for what I am doing here polyester is fine. To put it into perspective, the majority of boats being built are made with polyester.

I like to use mat rather than cloth because it conforms to the shape of the car better and goes around curves better. It is the random pattern fiberglass you see, as opposed to cloth that is in a uniform woven pattern.

Here are some pictures of the mat and resin I bought.

Don

Geez, I actually beat the computer before it froze up.

When you do fiberglass work, buy yourself some of the plastic graduated cups and mixing containers that you can get at paint stores and places like Home Depot. Also get a bunch of throwaway brushes, as you will only get one use out of them. Also get some disposable plastic gloves (chemical resistant) and wear along sleeve shirt or even better, get those paper suits that have a hood over your head. This stuff will make you itch, especially when you are doing the grinding.

I laid the plywood up against the front of the firewall and traced the outline of it onto the wood. Then I made a smaller tracing about 1/4 inch inside that line, because the inside of the firewall is smaller than the outside. I tilted the blade on the jigsaw to give me a 45 degree angle cut, because that is the shape of the inside of the T body. You want the plywood to have a gap all the way around, not fit tight against the existing body. If it is too tight, the new glass will suck in the body and also give you a shadow. I left a gap and plan to fill it with some thickened resin now that it is dry.

Here are some pictures of the plywood before and after cutting.

Don

The next step is the worst, this is where the itching comes in. All fiberglass has wax on the outside of it. It dries by inhibiting the air. In other words, if you don't keep the air out, it will stay sticky forever. So what you have to do is get rid of the wax on the inside of the body, or the new fiberglass won't stick. I started by washing the entire firewall down with laquer thinner and changing rags often. Then I took a 24 grit sanding disc and ground the entire surface of the firewall and the sides back about 3 inches. The reason you do the laquer thinner first is so there is less wax to grind into the fiberglass. After grinding I washed it once more with laquer thinner, and then took the body outside and washed it thoroughly with water and dish detergent.

After it dried in the sun for awhile I was ready to lay up some fiberglass.

The picture below shows the dust from grinding. It goes everywhere, and will make you itch for about a day if it gets in your pores. Also wear a mask and goggles, as I am sure it isn't the best to breath either.

Don

"Looking Good" keep it coming. I for one an loving it.

Thanks squire. I keep wondering if I am boring people, but I feel that some people who are thinking about doing something similar may pull some ideas from it. I'm not trying to come across as some great expert or anything, just a backyard rodder building a basic rod. I hope it is seen that way by the other members. I know I love to see it when others post their in-progress pictures. I wish more would do it.


Don

Don,
ive learned alot for this thread keep it up. keeps me from bothering you guys with all my questions.
thanks,
Harmon

Thanks to you too, Harmon. That makes me feel better about doing it.


Don