Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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HeHeHe!! Right-on! Lucky to get any padding at all!

Maybe I'll buy one of those blow up dolls to ride shotgun. I hear they don't complain a whole lot.


Don


Side note: When I lived in California I remember people using these blow up dolls to pose as passengers so they could use the carpool lanes and get to work quicker. The cops were arresting people all the time for that little trick.

I needed a couple of small pieces of 3/8 inch thick plate, big enough to make 2 brackets to mount the rear of my wishbone to the rear axle, so Thursday I went to the local steel supply shop and looked for some "drops" as they call them. These are pieces they have left over from a job they have done, and they put them in a holding area when you can pick through. Unfortunately, there were no small pieces there, but I did find a large piece, measuring 28 x 56 inches. It was way more than I needed (and it weighed a ton) so I had them cut it in half for me. Total cost was $ 80.00, but it will last me for quite awhile, and I won't have to dig through the "drop" stack the next time I need some of this size.

Trouble was, it still weighs like 80-100 lbs, so I had to cut it into a more managable size to shape it on the bandsaw. What I did was mark off a piece 7 inches wide, and I clamped a piece of angle iron across it to use as a straight edge. I put a couple of pieces of shim stock under the angle iron so it was not touching the plate. Then I slipped a large nut over the tip of my cutting torch so that I could slide the torch along the angle iron and get a reasonably straight cut. Sort of a poor mans flame cutter.

It actually worked pretty well, and now I had a smaller piece that I could handle. I thought this idea might come in handy for any of you that need to cut a straight cut with your torch. I also remembered that you have to put a flat piece of steel on the concrete under the plate because the torch keeps exploding the concrete.

Oh, I also put a couple of long pieces of 2 x 2 box tubing under the plate to elevate it away from laying directly on the floor.

The pictures below will show the angle iron clamped to the sheet, and the nut slipped over the tip of the torch. The nut keeps the torch tip exactly the same distance from the plate you are cutting. All you have to do is slide the torch along as it cuts through the plate.

Once I had the plate cut into a size I could handle, I made up a cardboard template of the shape I needed the mount to be. Well, actually I made up about 6 templates, because I could not get it right the first 5 times. Good thing cardboard boxes are free. Once I had the shape and size worked out in cardboard, I transferred it to the 3/8 thick plate, and cut out that shape on the bandsaw. I'm glad I don't use 3/8 a whole lot, this stuff is hard to work with.

I finally got two plates cut and ground, and they are going to work fine. I was a little worried because I can't mount the wishbone up against the rear axle housing because the frame is so low. I needed to drop the rear down about 5 inches to get the wishbone to sit level. I hate seeing rear radius rods that are pointing downward in the front. It ended up ok, though, and I made up 2 gussets to go on the side of the plate to give it some lateral support.

We also rethought something we had previously done. We were going to use a 5/8" grade 8 bolt sticking out from the inside of the frame to mount the front of the wishbone. But we looked at it tonight, and were afraid it might not be strong enough, so we have decided to use a bung instead, welded into a 3/8 plate that is also welded to the frame. The bung has 5/8 fine threads (female) so we can simply screw a bolt into the bung and safety wire it for additional insurance. We are going to do the same on the front wishbone mounts.

The first couple of pictures show the rear wishbone mount being made, and the last picture shows the bungs we are going to fully weld to the frame and 3/8 plate.

The plan is for the car to be up on wheels by Sunday PM.

Thanks for looking.


Don

looking good, you're working so hard i had to turn my oxygen intake reg. up from 2 to 3 just reading about it.

Don I really enjoy following your build. I especially like the drilled axel (must be a sign of a mispent youth).

Thanks Mike. I figure now that I've removed all that weight from those 14 holes, I might be able to do wheelies now.


Don

Yeah and it won't bottom out with the babe in it

Don, I just joined tonight and will keep an eye on you, so "get ur done".

Today I worked on the steering setup on the T. I decided to use the reversed Corvair box I was saving for my other T bucket, but to mount it in the traditional position in front of the firewall, rather than through the floor like most T buckets have them. It took me two sets of mounts to get the angle right, but I think I finally hit it. I plan to order the steering shaft, u joint, and drag link from Speedway this week, so pretty soon the car will not only roll around, but it will steer too.


I was a little disappointed this week to find out the stick transmission setup I wanted to use just is not going to work. I put a boat seat down in the cockpit and tried out the fit for the first time, and came to the realization there is just no room for 3 pedals and my feet. It would be a very awkward driving position, and maybe not too safe either, so I scrapped the idea and am going to install a turbo 350 like everybody else in the world. I guess there is a reason this is the way most people go. I am not sure if I will do the junkyard route, and look for one that seems to be good, or if I will just win another one on Ebay from Jackson Racing. I've bought two transmissions from them so far, and have been very pleased, so I may go that route.

Finally, I started mocking up the headlight assembly I want to use. I like using a Model A or '32 headlight bar on my rods, and modifying it to mount to the frame horns. This setup is much more stable than the usual aluminum mounts, and looks pretty traditional also. I am not sure if I will use the '27 Chevy headlights I am using in the pictures below, but I do kind of like the large size of them. I think they will fit the look I am seeking with the rest of the car. I will mount them slightly higher than in the picture, but at least this will kind of show what the finished product will look like.

I actually got a lot of work done on the car this week while the forum was down, but man did I miss it. Really glad it is back up and running.


Don

I like the "big" headlights.

Thanks Squire, so do I. I guess I'll put some halogen conversions in them.


I'm kinda bummed about not being able to use the stick setup, it would have been pretty cool. But I tend to drive my cars a lot (like every day) and my knees would have been in my face. At least with the automatic I can sort of stretch out a little more.


Don

Don, a friend of mine has had a 331 hemi t-bucket for over 40 years and his auto shift lever is neat. Don't recall he ever said what it came off of but it is just a small handle sticking though the top of the door near the windshield. It's on the flat part of the door and have to be looking to even see it. It's a steel body so I am not sure the top of your door is as wide. Makes for a clean interior.

Sounds like he is running some torque-flite tranny with a cable shifter setup. That would be neat and out of the way. I have a couple of early Ford shifters, and will probably end up modifying one of them to shift it, or maybe go to a Gennie shifter. My kid keeps telling me to just buy a Gennie and get it over with, but I like to build things, and a shifter shouldn't be too hard. All I have to do is figure out some detents so that it stays in a gear without vibrating out. Some springs and notches should do that, I would think.

Wish I had a hemi like your buddy. They are THE engine in my opinion, but are getting a little too pricey for my blood. Plus, I think they cost quite a bit more to build than other engines.

Don

Some more nice work Don.

"......Wish I had a hemi like your buddy. They are THE engine in my opinion, but are getting a little too pricey for my blood. Plus, I think they cost quite a bit more to build than other engines...."

Your right aobut the cost your "project 3K" would consist of an engine only to stay in the budget

Did I mention I got the Hemi for the Plymouth torn down today