Project $ 3 K Is Underway

No pix, but just a little update. Went to my insurance agent this morning and then to the DMV. Got my plates so the T is now legal to drive !!! :D :D As I mentioned earlier, someone scored my NOTA KIT vanity plate, so I can't use that one any more, so I settled for simple antique plates. I questioned them at the DMV when they suggested antique plates, and they said they were ok on a modified car (and mine is only SLIGHTLY modified :rolleyes: :p ) and there are no nightime restrictions or milage restrictions (I don't have a speedometer or odometer anyways) so I went with them.

Stopped at the upholstery shop, my carpeting is done and he is still waiting for the vinyl to arrive from Pheonix, should be here tomorrow. He says he will work through Friday and Saturday to finish it up. Maybe Sunday I can go for a little legal trip now that I have plates. :D

Don

Maybe ya shoulda gone with STOR BOT .:3dSMILE:

I think you should have gotten "not 4 3k"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gusaroo

I think you should have gotten "not 4 3k"

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That's got my vote, Don that would be perfect.

Oh, that's cold !!! :LOL: :LOL: But true. :D I also thought of PROJ 3K.


Don

I really dig your cars, they are beautiful. I have to ask....looking at this now from the other end....what would you think that is the bare minimum you could put one together for? I am really ready to build one, but have to spend my cash wisely on projects.

Thank you Brick. Ya know, that is a tough question. I still think (and know) I could have come in at a lower fiqure than I ended up spending. As I have said, I just got caught up in this T and started putting some more expensive parts on it as I thought it deserved them. But if a guy shopped wisely, used some preowned or similar parts, and did most of his own work like painting, etc, I think a car could be done for $ 5,000.00 and be pretty decent. It has been so many years since I had a rod on the road, I wanted this one to be kinda special.........hence, more costly.

Obviously, there would be some corner cutting. You couldn't expect to use $ 260 each rear tires, or pay a pro to paint and upholster it, but you could still incorporate some good parts if you were patient and shrewd in your haggling. You would also have to forego things like a total machine job/rebuild on the engine, but if you found a good running/sound donor, that would be fine. That is something that turns me on about the rat rod movement.........not the crappy ones, but the low buck, built at home, inventive, cool ones.

Look at the build JRobinson is doing. He is making great progress, and I bet he is keeping the expenditures relatively low by building and modifying most of his own stuff. He also used a good running engine tranny combo, and other parts from the same donor. I really like that about his build. That track car will be a blast to drive, and he won't be sucking up tons of gas every time he uses it either.

A big part of how cheaply a person can do something like this is how self sufficient they are at performing needed work. If you can weld and fabricate it yourself, you obviously save the cost of paying an outsider to do it for you. It also plays into this what connections you have for cheap parts. If you have buddies who will swap stuff with you or donate unneeded parts, that sure helps too. Someone just posted that a friend was offering them a 351 Cleveland engine just to take it away!! Those are the kinds of friends I need. :D

Don

kinda off topic for a second, but oldrodder mentioned he used por 15 on his project on the last page...does anyone know what kind of temperatures it needs to be sprayed at?

Don- as with many others on here have said, this is the first thread I check evertime I get on. It has been fun following your thread and I'm sad to see it ending, but now you have one hell of a nice rod and we at least have a few other build threads to follow when yours ends. good luck with it!

Thank you 35, I appreciate it.

I've never used por15, but according to the attached tech sheet there is a wide temp range, like 45-95 degrees. I hear it is good stuff.


POR-15 Technical Information

* Product Description
* Characteristics
* POR-15 Application Procedures
* Application of POR-15 to New Metal
* Typical Applications



* Which Formula To Use
* Advantages over dual-component Coatings
* Container Availability
* Ultra-Violet Sensitivity
* Laboratory Test Results


POR-15® PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

POR-15 Inc. brings the powerful technology of polymeric isocyanate derivatives to the consumer rust prevention market for the first time, a technology vastly superior to competing products currently on the market.

POR-15® is easier and less expensive to apply than epoxies, since it doesn't require mixing: and POR-15® dries to a high-gloss or semi-gloss finish just like paint, except that it cannot be scratched or peeled off.

Since POR-15® chemically bonds to metal, the underlying surface does not have to be sanded before application. As long as loose or flaking rust are removed from the surface, an application of POR-15® will not only cover up the rust and prevent it from spreading, but will also strengthen the underlying metal and seal holes by forming its own membranes.

POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from re-occurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated before prolonged exposure to sunlight. POR-15 is cured and strengthened by exposure to moisture and will dry faster under extreme humidity, but moderate to dry atmospheric conditions are most desirable when applying this product, because extreme humidity may cause an immediate surface cure, trapping carbon dioxide gas below the surface. When this happens, bubbling may occur. Extreme humidity at the time of application may also interfere with proper adhesion of the POR-15 coating to metal because it's almost impossible to keep metal dry under such conditions.

POR-15® is a paint-like substance which acts as a total rust inhibitor and also very effective as a metal filler. Its consistency is approximately that of paint and it has very good spreadability (one quart covers 96 square feet). POR-15® chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard, nonporous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It works by isolating metal from moisture; without moisture present, steel can't rust. Thin, covering coats are best. Apply second coat when first coat is dry to touch with slight "finger-drag" remaining.

CHARACTERISTICS

Solids - 74%
Vapor Pressure - 38mm
Hg: Boiling Point - 232°F
Specific Gravity 1.05
Percent volatile by Volume 25%
Weight per quart - 2.25lbs.
Solubility in water - insoluble.

Appearance: Glossy or Semi-gloss (black only) finish.
Application: Brush, roller, spray
Spreadability: 96 sq. ft. per Quart, 384 so. ft. per gallon.


Recommended Temperature Application: 45°F - 95°E


Drying Time: Varies according to humidity; average is 4.5 hours.
Shelf Life: Unopened can - 2 years or more. Opened can - up to 6 months.
Abrasion Resistance: Using Taber Abrasion Test, POR-15® passes 200 cycles with a 100 gram weight on a CF17 Wheel.
Solubility: POR-15 is readily soluble in esters. ketones, and aromatic solvents.

POR-15 APPLICATION PROCEDURES

Surface preparation:
Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and sandblasted surfaces are also good.

To coat smooth metal surfaces:
Use POR-15 METAL-READY to prepare surface before painting. Surface must be dry and free of grease, oil, or other foreign substances. Use of 'rust converter' products is not recommended as they may affect bonding of POR-15 to metal. POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with 'tooth' rather than smooth, glossy surfaces.

STIR CONTENTS GENTLY AND THOROUGHLY before painting.
Do not shake.
Refrigerate unused portion of POR-15 for longer shelf life.

Apply in thin coats, 1 to 2 mil thickness. Minimum 2 coats.
Topcoat when first coat is dry but with slight finger-drag remaining, usually 4-5 hours.

SPRAY APPLICATION:
Use 30-35 lbs pressure for normal gloss. Reduce pressure for lower gloss (20-25 lbs). Thin only with POR-15 Solvent, if necessary, but do not thin more than 5%.

TO TOPCOAT A FULLY CURED POR-15 SURFACE:
Wet sand with 600 grit until gloss is dull, then paint, or use POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer directly on the cured POR-15 surface, then topcoat as desired. NOTE: Never topcoat a POR-15 surface that hasn't dried, as this will ruin the coat already down.

Use POR-15 Solvent or lacquer thinner for cleanup, which must be done before POR-15 dries. NOTE: Organic vapor particulate respirators, NIOSH/MSHA approved, must be used when spraying POR-15.

Moisture will shorten the life of unused POR-15.

Seal can or jar immediately after using. We recommend placing plastic wrap between lid can and storing in a cool dark place.

APPLICATION OF POR-15® TO NEW METAL

For proper adhesion to aluminum, galvanized metal, and smooth steel surfaces, prep with POR-15® METAL-READY™ Rust Remover/PrePrimer. Keep surface wet for 15 minutes, then rinse off with water and dry thoroughly. This process will leave a zinc phosphate coating on the metal and insure perfect adhesion.

TYPICAL APPLICATIONS

* Use as a primer or finish coat
* Automobiles: fenders, floorboards, bumpers. trunk areas, engine compartments, rockers
* Trucks, trailers, agricultural equipment, snow removal and highway equipment
* Storage tanks, bridges, boats, factory machinery
* Outdoor sign supports, fencing, metal roofs, fire escapes
* Use to waterproof insulation or wood
* As a filler for metal
* Use as a bonding agent on wood or Styrofoam
* Prevents rust in refrigeration units where moisture corrodes metal
* Use on lawnmower housing to prevent rust; keep grass from sticking and clumping in wet weather.

WHICH FORMULA TO USE?

* POR-15® SILVER contains metal filler and should be used on badly rusted steel to fill small holes and pitted areas.
* POR-15® BLACK is used on frames, floorboards. under fenders, engine compartments. trunk areas, etc.
* POR-15® CLEAR dries to a perfect satin gloss, used on exterior surfaces before painting. Excellent for "touch-up".
* POR-15® GRAY is ideal for use on concrete.

ADVANTAGES OVER MOST DUAL-COMPONENT COATINGS

Better chemical resistance, better adhesion to metals, greater ease of application, strengthened by exposure to moisture. Reasonable pot life, non-shattering, great flexibility. No catalyst required for curing.

CONTAINER AVAILABILITY

* Pint
* Quart
* Gallon
* 5 Gallon Pail
* 55 Gallon Drum

ULTRA-VIOLET SENSITIVITY

POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Failure to do this may result in long-term damage to the POR-15® coating. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

LABORATORY TEST RESULTS

POR-15® was tested for 168 hours at 97°F in a condensing humidity salt spray (ASTM B117). At the end of the test period, coated steel was free of rust or pitting. Acid and alkali resistance tests performed found panels coated with POR-15® to be impervious to gasoline, oil, chromic acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, caustic soda, 50% sulfuric acid, and 50% hydrofluoric acid. POR-15® was applied over a rusty substrate as a finish coat (approximately 23 mils dry film thickness). The coating showed essentially no undercutting at the scribed area after 2000 hours in a weatherometer*.

A 2 mil thickness of POR-15® was applied to lightly rusted steel and then exposed for 1000 hours to a salt spray. At the end of the test period, no undercutting was observed at the scribed area. Recoatability is excellent. Laboratory tests have shown very good adhesion when applied up to 14 days after application of the first coat. In an actual Field test, a topcoat was applied 6 weeks after the first coat had been applied, and the intercoat adhesion was excellent as determined by a crosshatch tape test. A metal box used as a filter for raw sewage was coated with POR-15® and placed in service within a few hours after the interior and exterior were coated. No visible rusting occurred at the welded areas after a six month exposure.

A POR-15® coating was subjected to 700°F for 10 hours; it remained hard and showed no apparent loss of adhesion. A panel subjected to elongation was pulled beyond the yield point of the base metal without affecting the POR-15® coating.

* WEATHEROMETER -
Dew cycle XWR with corex D filter, cycle is:
1. 30 minutes sun, 135°F, 30% relative humidity.
2. 30 minutes dark. 75-80°F, 100% relative humidity
(achieved with water spray on panel backs).

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Copyright © 2005-2006 The POR-15 Outlet
Last modified: 05/02/06

Don

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Don, I forgot to say ------------- when you started the T project (3K) you were gonna give it to Don, if I remember right!! Then of a sudden you decided that you were going to keep it for yourself -------- So then --- chuckle chuckle, the SKY IS THE LIMIT. heeeeheeeee. love it.
I will say, like the others have that you THREE all have a great sense of what's right and are super fine builders, from what I have seen and read in these hundred and eighty three (four) pages. And forgot to say too that it took me near as long to read them all as it took for you to build it!!!!!!!! And probably cost me near your 3K figure for paper and printer ink to record everything so when we get back to our project(s) we can profit from your efforts. Also ------------ Your Old Uncle Geezer, or uncle old geezer, or geezer old uncle, or whatever, (BOB), is sure SHARP --------- I have gotten more entertainment from his input, and other's adding to, and your reaction and response, than having a barrel of monkeys. And Don, I sincerely appreciate your very kind and caring words. God Bless, thanks. perley

Yeah Perley, I have to admit, Uncle Bob has his moments. :LOL: :LOL: He's been in Vegas for a while now, wonder if he pawned his car and has no way to get home. :p

I've calmed down a little over the bent brake line thing. Dan and I had no choice with the deadline rapidly approaching, so we straightened them out and made them work. He and I pulled an all nighter and just got in (it's 6 AM :eek: ) but we got all the lines run and bled the brakes. They seem fine, but we won't know til Sunday when we finish up the steering and he gets to take it for his first spin. Don was tied up finishing up some budget stuff for work, so he doesn't know we got his brakes done. He should be pretty surprised Sunday when he comes over.

Might have a YouTube to post of his first ride. :3dSMILE:


Don

Got to love outside vendors Don :mad:

I think that it's been the biggest pain on my last couple of projects. There are still some good ones out there, but we sure remember the bad ones the longest.

Sounds like your well on your way to making the run this year. I'm very happy for you.

Well i know Don's builds are not over . I still remember a truck and another 27 T he has stashed inside the shop . I'm sure he will be showing us pics of the cruise nights at least i hope he does . The family pic of all three and their rides is going to be fantastic mag material.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

He's been in Vegas for a while now, wonder if he pawned his car and has no way to get home. :p

Don

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It's not the tables that'll take ya, it's the wheels......................