Dialing in a cam...

I built a 327 some 30 plus years ago and never lit it off! So I'm thinking I had better blow the thing apart and re assemble it just so I know its right and up date the gaskets. I put a level 4 Crower cam in it and I'm trying to remember exactly how to degree the cam in? The original instructions say if using "LOBE CENTER" method of degreeing the cam should be installed on an intake centerline of 104 degrees. How do you find the centerline of the intake? Or is there any good reading that I might refresh my memory with? Thanks, B-II

Id ask B-I or B-III but they are in the jet boat having fun on an extended weekend.:cool: Thanks guys for any direction here.

As per Crower:

"Level 4 camshafts are designed for heavily modified engines. These camshaft have a definite lope at idle and are best suited for dual purpose hot street/drag strip, hot marine or oval track applications. These grinds exhibit strong mid-range to top end torque and horsepower. Headers, dual exhaust, large cfm carburetor, performance ignition and increased compression of 10.25:1 and above are required. Cylinder head modifications would be beneficial. Use with standard manual transmission or automatic with high stall torque converter. Again, close attention to proper ring and pinion and tire diameter selection is imperative."

Installation manual is at:

http://www.crower.com/media/pdf/cam_book.pdf

They reference a degreeing kit, part number 81706 that looks to be available only from Crower:

Degreeing Kit

Good luck!
Glenn

Oh yeah, got everything in it and it is good to go... I was going to build it for the antique drags guess it will really be an antique now. LOL Its a 1968 327 with the Camel hump fuelly heads that have been re worked. Running a tunnel ram with 2 450 Holley's, gear drive. I built up a Power-glide to handle the quick shifting with a 2000 stall in it. It should make a great point A to point B car. Ya know when I built that motor there was no INTERNET! Didn't even think about looking on line for that info.! The Crower's were our neighbors growing up in Jamul Ca. and are really cool folks. They spent a bunch of time with me dialing in exactly what I wanted. I finally think its time to get my Model A rolling again I need a new fix or at least excuse to get out of the shop once in a while and do some hot laps around the block if ya know what I mean. :cool::rolleyes:Thanks again.

I did a search for the degreeing kit and found its just a degreeing wheel and dial indicator with a mag base... got all that stuff.
http://www.crower.com/media/pdf/accessories.pdf Guess i just need to find out which degree spacers I need.

Here's the engine... http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...r/scan0017.jpg

Ok guys I have it ll figured out now and should be able to give it some serious time here soon. Does anyone know if valve springs go flat if not used in 30 plus year? Guess I'm going to have to find a spring compression tester somewhere and make sure these things haven't gone flat? Is there a way to check them without "The Tool"? Any old school tricks short of running the engine?

Tech, techinspector1, would say that if the rockers weren't backed off the springs that were under pressure would be toast after sitting that long. If you're not going to take the engine apart I'd suggest pressurizing each cylinder and replacing the springs.

Rockers were never installed... just the spring pressure keeping the valves stems at full extension?

With no pressure other than the retainers I think I'd want to make sure they're still in tolerance. Bind, valve float, etc. would not be pretty especially considering that a new set of springs would be that costly.

Yeah I see the inexpensive valve spring tester is available at Autozone for $30.00. I probably will only use it a couple of times but it might be a good investment.

If you're not going to take the heads off this might be a good investment.Powerbuilt® High Performance Valve Spring Compressor 940541 | eBay

Im going to take it back apart and replace the old gaskets and double check my 30 year old plus assembly work. While its out I'm going to re freshen up the power glide with new seals and a shift kit. So I will deal with the springs then. Thanks for the heads up...

You're quite welcome though I was just repeating what tech has been telling me for years.