Thread: Whats the most difficult (stupid,poor engineering,assxxxxx) thing you've run across??

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Well, yesterday I reached a new plate(plat toe) in mechanical things-------The alternator went out on Robin's 2003 Chev Trailblazer inline 6 cylinder----garage is full so it is a drive way project--------to remove this alternator was much more difficult than anything I have run across in doing mechanical things back to helping my Dad when I was maybe 6 or 7 years old (72 now)
I have been fed up with the engineering on GM vehicles for decades as it always seems that you gotta remove overlapping/interfering objects/components to get to about anything other than the gas cap!!!!!!!!!! In the alternator case, there are brackets holding brackets holding wires and hoses for the entire wiring loom, radiator hoses, a/c hoses, etc and wires are hooked to back of alternator that are so short that you can't move it far enough to remove them so that you can move hoses/wire looms/brackets to get to the alternator!!!!!!!!!!!!The only bright glimmer in the whole deal is that the alternator needs to be removed to change the thermostat and temp sensor underneath it so I can change them while the alt is off----------I've had the therm and sensor most of summer and did not change them when I did the fan coupler because I was pretty up set about just needing to remove the alter plus working thru the wheel well--------------If I could da got ahold of my friend at Ford , she'd have a new car today-------------

The new stuff shows more cobble and clutter under the hood every year!!!! I believe that (as usual) the engineers are clueless on what it takes to work on one of these late model vehicles, it's like running an obstacle course blindfolded!!!!

I suppose part of it is that few people do their own repairs and maintenance anymore so there's no interest by the manufacturer's to make normal maintenance items a bit more accessible???? Friend of mine works at a GM dealership, when he talks about some of the fiasco's on doing repairs on new vehicles it's like listening to a horror story!!!!!!

Well one time a few years ago---the daughter of a friend of mine who happened to be married to a GM engineer had her water pump disentrigate on the way out to our shop for a visit----he(they) were very pissed that I would hook up to my trailer(3 axle featherlite goose neck 46 footer) and go to where they were stranded (middle of a very upper class snobbie neighbor hood (Geneva Il) and load up there car----Had camper top on truck which would've needed to be removed<etc, unload the car in the trailer(raining at the time)


Well----that young know everything about nothing engineer got to do the work on that sideways engine front drive Pontiac----and he went back to Detroit with a new out look on life--------of course he doesn't work for them any more-------------

when i first experienced the cab removal on newer ford trucks i was dumbfounded . i could not believe it . common practice now .

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Well----that young know everything about nothing engineer got to do the work on that sideways engine front drive Pontiac----and he went back to Detroit with a new out look on life--------of course he doesn't work for them any more-------------

Had on of those Pontiacs, had to nearly remove the engine to change the three spark plugs on the firewall side; had to take a bunch of accessory stuff out of the way to get to the battery which was buried in the inner fender. It got to leaking oil so bad I kept an absorbent blanket under it in the garage and driveway, but they wanted $4k to try to stop up the leaks - traded it in on a Toyota. It is almost as bad, engineering wise, tight quarters, stuff buried behind or under other stuff, but at least it has never given us any mechanical or other problems.

My baby's ford focus has an alternator which I won't touch.

I believe it would be just slightly more effort to pull the motor rather than just the alternator.

Remember the Porsche which required the motor to be pulled to replace the plugs? How about the corvette which needs the fender removed to replace the battery.

This junk used to be the exception. It's rapidly becoming the rule.

Is it intentional on the part of the manufacturer? Does the higher warranty cost get offset by labor costs after warranty? I guess there is no concern that the alternator requires $200 labor if the alternator is designed to exceed warranty period.

1968 Mustang and Torino GT with 390 engine recommended "disconnecting the motor mount lifting the engine" to allow clearance for changing plugs. Lots of wheel wells cut and sheet metal panels screwed back on rather than lift the engine.

My daughter recently had an alternator go out on her V6 Ford Escape - Put car on lift,remove passenger wheel/tire, remove lower shroud. Highly recommend to change the serpentine belt as well while one is "in the neighborhood"..

On the other hand - I had a 1962 Chevy pickup with a straight six that I could take a cooler and a picnic basket with when I sat on the inner fenderwells and changed the plugs!

Joanie's new Mustang - Terrifying.

That's one of those that when you open the hood you hope it will close again

As mentioned, the manufactures don't want back yard mechanics playing under the bonnet of their cars when the dealers can charge what ever they wish to do the job. I'm glad I got out of panelbeating when I did as I remember trying to replace a blown headlight bulb on a Jappa and thinking it would of been easier to start at the rear bumper and smash my way forward to the headlight. In the workshop manual for my BMW it reads that the owner should only check items with a yellow handle, dipstick for oil, trans dipstick, powersteering dipstick, radiator overflow tank and windscreen washer tank. Every thing else refer to a credited BMW service garage. Oh and because of those three letters take a second and maybe a third mortgage out on your home please on the way to the BMW Garage.

I still got the tools I bought for getting those plugs out of my 68 torino 428cj---swivel 3/8 ratch , long 3/8 extension and a u jpoint 13/16 spark plug socket-------rear ones by the extension up out thru the hood hinge arms--once took tip of finger off on end of shock absorber when racket slipped----------

I had a 67 Mustang 390 GT, only 1 that I dreaded was under the power brake booster. Used a wrench on the socket head and then a short 1" extension into the socket to spin'em in and out by hand. Tighten with the wrench also. Worked for me. 8-)

Changed the plugs on the Cobra a while back.

1,2,5,6, took ten minutes or so.

3,4,7,8, took about an hour each.

Jerry, you've never worked on an English car, have you?


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Change a water pump on a Lexius

I've been known to create my own maintenance monsters---I guess it's what you get when you like a lot of engine set-back on a three pedal car!!!!! Everything comes at a price!!!!