9 inch ford in a model a frame

Hello ! Starting to work on a '26 ford coupe project. The body is un-channelled on a 30-31 frame. I'd like to use the original rear spring directly over top of a 9 inch ford rear. My question is, will this be feasable? Or will the car sit way too high? I'm bucking the latest trend of "how low can you go". The roof will not be chopped, but i plan on lengthening the frame several inches to avoid cutting the firewall. Power will be a 1957 chrysler 392 in front of a richmond t-10. Anyone else tried this rear suspension set up? Thanks in advance.

Wouldn't it all depend on the configuration of your spring shackle mounts on the axle? If they extend below the axle tubes you set the height where you want, right?

Here's a narrowed housing from Honest Charley......
Rear End Housing, 9 Ford, Buggy-Spring

"but i plan on lengthening the frame several inches to avoid cutting the firewall."
Excellent. You think like I do. Let the wheelbase end up wherever it ends up.
o
o

Excellent picture, Tech! Those spring mounts can extend down as far as you want, provided they're properly braced and gusseted, to get your ride height set.
Attachment 58873

Like i stated earlier, the spring will be directly over the axle,not behind it. I want the rear wheel centered in the fender indent.anyone have photos of a similar rear set-up?

Like i stated earlier, the spring will be directly over the axle, not behind it. I want the rear wheel centered in the fender indent. Anyone have photos of a similar rear set-up? The spring perches will be welded to the top of the axle housing. I have an old 10 bolt open rear to use for mock up purposes. I'll sacrifice a pair of spring perches to see how high the car sits.

I'd move the rear cross member back to put the spring behind the axle, and the axle centered as it should be. You can also bias the cross member up on the frame to help drop the rails a bit more.

You can use the spring mounted directly over the axle but it is going to take some serious re-arch/ de arching of the spring leaves-also, how are you planning on holding the rear in place---parallel 4 bar? triangulated 4 bar? 3 link?

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

You can use the spring mounted directly over the axle but it is going to take some serious re-arch/ de arching of the spring leaves-also, how are you planning on holding the rear in place---parallel 4 bar? triangulated 4 bar? 3 link?

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Sorry for another post, but reading Jerry's post I'm thinking that not only would you have to de-arch the springs, with that much de-arch you'd likely have to have them shortened, too. Seems to me that you're going to destroy the "look" of that transverse spring by pushing it up and flattening it out, and that it would look and function better tucked behind the axle. You may not agree, and that's OK too.

I think this mounting would be better behind the axle also but he does want to put a hemi and a 4 speed in it----------anything but a 350/350!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have to agree with the spring in the back. I built a 31 Coupe with the
stock spring over the axle (57 chevy) I spent a lot of time having the spring shortened
'eyes reversed, and rerolled. Ended up with 4 leaves in the spring. This was
with a 4" channel. It could be done by Zing the rear frame, now you need to
modify the body sub frame.

Here's a link to some related info to pick thru:

THE H.A.M.B.

Rich

I don't want to modify the original trunk floor, and was considering using a pair of ladder bars to keep the rear in place. I've already purchased an "x" member kit and boxing plates, but i don't want to weld anything in until i decide on the finished wheelbase. The '26 body is in gorgeous shape [ it came from a restored car that someone parted out] and i don't want to molest it. Why would the spring have to be de-arched? THE BODY\FRAME COMBO IS ON JACKSTANDS AT WHAT I'M GUESSING WOULD BE RIDE HEIGHT, AND I STOOD UP A 225\70\15 TIRE IN PLACE. IT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD. I HAVEN'T DECIDED TO RUN IT FENDERLESS,STOCK FENDERS,OR STOCK REAR FENDERS WITH FORD SPARE TIRE COVERS CONVERTED TO INDEPENDANT AND TURNABLE FRONT FENDERS.

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Originally Posted by SUPERDELUXE

Why would the spring have to be de-arched?

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Because it'll sit a mile high with the spring atop the axle. Forget the transverse leaf and get a set of coilovers with a triangulated 4-bar link and be done with it. Trunk floor remains "unmolested", crossmember is unmodified, and you just add mounts to frame & axle. Ladder bars are not a good idea, either - they twist the axle as it moves up & down. 4 Link is better & triangulated 4 link eliminates the need for a panhard bar.

It might look good "a mile high"

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Originally Posted by SUPERDELUXE

It might look good "a mile high"

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It sounds like you've already made up your mind, so I'll wish you best of luck with your build, and hope you'll post pictures as you go along. A belated welcome to CHR, by the way.

Who makes a triangular rear kit for an "a" frame with an added "x" member kit? Will a '32 kit be sufficiant?

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Originally Posted by SUPERDELUXE

It might look good "a mile high"

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And a lot better than "tail draggers", coon tails, mud flaps, and super wide whites. That crap, for all practical purposes, went out in the late 50's.

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Originally Posted by SUPERDELUXE

Who makes a triangular rear kit for an "a" frame with an added "x" member kit? Will a '32 kit be sufficiant?

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Pete & Jakes is one - Pete and Jake's Hot Rod Parts
Speedway Motors is another - Triangulated 4-Bar Rear Supsension Assembly Kit for Model A Frame - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Summit lists a bunch of universals - http://www.summitracing.com/search?k...rder=Ascending

Are you running fenders on this '26 Coupe?

Checked speedway, but all i see are the '32 kits and the '33 '34 kits. Maybe their online catalog offers an "a" kit. I've got the rear fenders loosely bolted on and they look pretty good. Considering running the original splash aprons with modified\reshaped running boards. The chrysler 392 is already bolted to a g.m. Bellhousing via an adaptor plate,and the richmond t-10 is attached. At the moment, there is no radiator on the frame , but the engine\trans are in for mock up purposes. THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR 2 CENTS !

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Originally Posted by SUPERDELUXE

Checked speedway, but all i see are the '32 kits and the '33 '34 kits. Maybe their online catalog offers an "a" kit.

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Did you click the link on Speedway?? It's titled "Triangulated 4-Bar....FOR A MODEL A FRAME" I think I'd want to do some AutoCadd work to see how the "stretched" look is going to work with a full fendered T. Just my $0.02.

The speedway kit is for "their" model a frame with '32 rails and a tubular "x" member. I'm using henry's frame and a dagel's c-channel type "x" member. Summitt's chassis engineering ladder bar kit looks interesting. I will definatly do some photoshopping and schetches of the car with stretched fender aprons and running boards before i make a hasty decision. I have two sets of aprons and running boards if i go this route. I'm leaning towards the ford spare tire cover front fender idea. I've got a few of them laying around. I like hot rods in all flavors and say "to each his own" but i don't want to build a cookie cutter car.

Buggy springs front and rear are not exactly known to produce a good handling, nice riding car.....Raising the ride height will also raise the center of gravity on the car and adversely effect the roll center and instant center which will only compound the inherent poor handling of solid axles and buggy springs. Not wanting to build a cookie cutter car is fine, I'm guilty of the same thing.....Remember though that their are a lot of engineering opportunities to deal with in order to have a car that will go comfortably and safely down the road......