Thread: J. B. Weld Question
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08-18-2013 07:39 AM #1
J. B. Weld Question
I am currently doing a project with J. B. Weld (the steel reinforced slow set two tube type) and I'm wondering if you can put a thin finish coat layer on after the first application sets up? The thickest part of the original application isn't even an 1/8" thick and a finish coat would be probably much less than 1/16" thick and for looks only.
TIA,
Em.
" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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08-18-2013 09:53 AM #2
If you were laying up a glass project, you could add layer on layer of epoxy. I can't see that J.B. Weld would be any different. It's also an epoxy, isn't it?PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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08-18-2013 10:01 AM #3
i am one who praises the worth of jb weld .. i have even stuck it to a head and drilled and taped it for a bolt once ...iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?
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08-18-2013 10:03 AM #4
depending on what the project is, you may wanna scuff up the existing coat a little before applying the finish coat to help with the bonding process..."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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08-18-2013 10:08 AM #5
what randy said, plus make sure it's super clean/degreased. Otherwise, it works.Nick
Brookville '32 hi-boy roadster
TriStar Pro Star 427 CID
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08-18-2013 10:24 AM #6
Thanks Gents, I'm actually trying to adhere a flat washer over the warped/dented oil pan drain hole area and hopefully get a good mating surface once again for the plug and gasket. I guess the Barrio Bros made a lowrider out of it and then forgot that it was close to the ground. I'm gonna wait overnight before I try and back out the bolt and find out if everything (that was supposed to) held and everything that I greased and teflon taped will release. If all looks good I want to finish it down smooth and paint it so I will heed all of your suggestions.
P.S. I realize that I should have had it brazed on but right now, the shade tree way, is all I have to offer.
Em.
" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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08-18-2013 10:34 AM #7
you can but i. abrade the surface with sand paper or a knife to get the top shinny coat off to dull JB up so you will get better hook up on the new top coat . JB weld i used it many times on intake ports like the roofs on the old 862 bow tie heads and port blending were time and welding with a tig is not in the plans. to get the best hookup on the surface clean with thinner then wire wheel if needed . i used a spring loaded punch and prick punch were i going to putty .this helps hook up the putty . a small shop pocket steel ruler works for tooling it and some lacquer thinner to keep ruller clean and from sticking by damping it or a finger works good to if you keep it damp with thinner . there not much sanding if you take your time ,but some may worry about damping you finger in thinner i am past that .there other stuff like A&B putty and spalsh zone but the JB work s good for most stuffIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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08-18-2013 10:35 AM #8
That might work but I would definitely keep an eye on it. I used JB Weld to repair a crack in the old aluminum oil filter attachment on my old 352. It worked fine for a few years.
If it doesn't work, you can always get a new oil pan for around $70 but I'm sure the installation won't be as easy as smearing a little JBWeld on it....."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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08-18-2013 10:46 AM #9
well hell i did not know we are fixing a oil pantry to find some fiber mat or cloth cut if out and lay it up with the JB or if you do not have any of that stuff cut a patch of window screen to help as a backer
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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08-18-2013 10:48 AM #10
I know, Pal, and a new oil pan is probably not too far down the line but I wanted to see if I could get it to where I can enjoy it more than I've been able to lately. Maybe later when I get the tranny serviced, I can get a new pan installed at the same time???????????
Thanks for the tips, Pat.
Em.
" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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08-18-2013 12:55 PM #11
Somewhere over the winter, I'll be installing my new oil pan. I'll cut you a good deal on the used one.
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08-18-2013 02:10 PM #12
you gotta SB Ffffffurd?
summit's got'em cheap
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3534/overview/
I"ll probably replace the oil pump and shaft also so might as well get'em all at the same time - - saves on shipping too
as you can probably tell, right now I'm gonna duct tape, bailing wire and bandaid things until I make sure I'm gonna keep itLast edited by MelloYello; 08-18-2013 at 02:14 PM.
.
" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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08-18-2013 04:29 PM #13
Yup... SBF (347), gonna use a shelby aluminum pan. Whatever you decide is fine. I'll stick it on a wall otherwise.
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08-18-2013 05:12 PM #14
I do appreciate it - - - are you sure that will fit a mid-60s 289?.
" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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08-19-2013 03:19 AM #15
It's a front sump, I can't see why it wouldn't. I don't remember the part number but it came from summit so I could look it up.
John's ride to the cemetery, his beloved Billings OK bus, The Baby Elephant!! Traveling in style!! - -
John Norton aka johnboy