The big "Stone Chip Touchup"

I do this every year about this time. When your hotrod is your daily summer driver, you collect stone chips. The ones that aren't from flying gravel are generally made by myself in random fits of stupidity---dropped wrenches, scratch with engineering ring, ---dumb stuff. I still have a quart of paint left from 4 years ago. It reverts to 1" of solid sludge, and the rest is about the same consistency as Naptha gas.--after 1/2 hour of stirring, I mix it up on the bottom of an upside down soup can. Three drops of paint, and one drop of activator. I have a tiny little paint brush, about half the size that a kid uses with his first water paint set. I go around the car looking for stone chips, and generally stick a big old peice of masking tape near the chips so I can find them again. Then I go around with a little bit of Prep-sol on a rag and wipe off the accumulated wax. then I walk around and dab---and wait half an hour---then walk around and dab again. Generally I do three applications to fill in the chip holes. If I was really good, I would wait a week untill everything hardens up, then CAREFULLY sand down the high spots, and buff it out. ---but I'm too scared that I will screw it up and end up making a mess!!! This has become a spring ritual at my house. And every time I'm out with the car and people say "Wow---I don't know how you drive it all the time and keep it looking so nice!!"---I have a little chuckle and don't say anything----.

Brian,

I have the same ritual. Painted bumpers do have their disadvantages...

I use much the same process as you. To mix the paint I use an awl, idea came from someone here on the forum. Dip it in the paint and count the drops into a bottle top, wipe it off then dip it in the hardener, I use a 2-1 paint to hardner mix. Then I use a torn off paper match as an applicator. I just touch the chip and let the paint flow into it. If I get it right, it leaves a little "blob" above the surface. I'll let it dry a couple days then I use this stuff: http://www.langka.com/ to finish it and if needed a fine polish then wax. there have been time when I have used 1000 and 2000 grit for a larger area.

Pat

Stu- I went to the web site but I'm not clear if it will work on acrylic lacquer. Do you know?

I guess all of us probably have some sort of ritual for doing paint touch up, what I would like to know, is there some way of storing TU paint long term without it turning to sludge as Brian indicated? I am going to have some paint work done and I will be getting some fresh touch up paint and I would like to be able to retain it as long as possible.

Another tip.

If you are using paint that will be sanded, and buffed in...

Use a short piece of paint stick as a sanding block or pad. It will hit the highest part...... but not flex like a rubber pad, and undercut the surrounding paint.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LarryH

Stu- I went to the web site but I'm not clear if it will work on acrylic lacquer. Do you know?

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I don't know Larry, I suggest you send them an email or give a call. From what I can determine the stuff is a specially formulated polishing compund.

Pat

Thanks for your help.

Running dealer body shops i would talk customers into letting me touch up a chip versus painting . I would as you do light layers building color then do the same with clear . Hotrod said it with the paint stick just rub the highs . never had a customer who wasnt satisfied with this , and alot better then chancing a repaint .

Hidebinder,

I use old peanut jars to store my TU Paint in. I have some for the Comet that is about 8 years old. I just go in and shake them every so often and then turn them upside down to let the heavy stuff drain back down through the lighter part. The rubber seal caps of the bottles make great seals and last a long time. I use this with all colors of my paint and it has worked well for me.

As for brushes, I got some very tiny ones at the paint store that are about 6" long with just a tiny ball of fur on the end. If these are still to big for a pick, I cut a toothpick into and use the part that is small enough to just put a drop into the pick.

Ron

I dinged the trunk lid for my car the other day - luckily just on the edge (also had a couple of spots on one of my splash shields). I use some paint that I mix according to ratio and dab it on with a tooth pick rather then a brush. They took about 3 applications to build up. I then sanded it level with 2000 on a stiff rubber block. Then I did the same with the clear coat. The spot is no longer visible after wet sand, again with 2000, then rubbed out by hand with Presta 1500 or Meguiar's #2.
I tried a small brush first and found the toothpick trick worked best (at least for me)

Paint it black, buy a Magic Marker . . . no more problems....