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Thread: Fiberglass quality.....Be-Bops in TN????
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    flh4speed's Avatar
    flh4speed is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 50 Ford , 55 Chevy
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    can you get some picz stovebolter , i would like to see what i might be gettin into myself ?? it reads like a little disapointment over there..


    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm.

    Kenny

  2. #2
    Stovebolter's Avatar
    Stovebolter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Really....I'm not that disappointed. I expected some trouble out of fiberglass. But there are some serious alignment issues with gaps at corners as wide as a 1/4 inch. I thought it was just me so I put the factory pieces back on and checked all measurements. When I reinstalled....I started with the runningboards aligned...installed the fenders. The fronts werent too bad. Divers side is definitely differnent from the passengers side though. The part that really gets me....with the rears installed....they advertise 2 inch wider but you get 1 inch wider and they are pushed back over an inch. Ive been in the shop several times thinking I've made a mistake or that its a bad dream but the rears are only 1 inch. Dang it....I really needed room for the 10 inch rims. Now I'm affraid of them. I'll probably go with 9.5's on the rear. 10's will be pushing it for clearance.

    I use a Mavica disc camera and cant find my darn software so be patient and I'll get some pictures as soon as I can.
    Last edited by Stovebolter; 11-16-2007 at 01:13 PM.

  3. #3
    Stovebolter's Avatar
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    FLH....got some pics finally. These are after making sure cab, radiator and bed were aligned. This is the best I could make the fenders and running boards fit.





    Last edited by Stovebolter; 11-22-2007 at 10:13 AM.

  4. #4
    shortyforty's Avatar
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    There was a trick I read about somewhere that if the parts are still in the curing stage you can use a hair blow dryer to heat the glass some to bring it around to clamp it to keep it in the correct shape till done curing. Never tried it and don't know how much heat, but best to keep it spead evenly and not blister it.
    Dan
    =====
    1971 Camaro
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    1956 Bel Air (wife's)
    1940 Ford PU
    1939 Ford PU

  5. #5
    Stovebolter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortyforty
    There was a trick I read about somewhere that if the parts are still in the curing stage you can use a hair blow dryer to heat the glass some to bring it around to clamp it to keep it in the correct shape till done curing. Never tried it and don't know how much heat, but best to keep it spead evenly and not blister it.
    Thanks....I'll try it. My biggest aggrevation is...they were suppose to 2" wider rears (as advertised) and they turned out to be 1". Ive stretched and spread, contorsionalized, and cursed till I was wore out , and they still were only 1" wider.

    Oh well. I'll make them work.

    D

  6. #6
    Stovebolter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortyforty
    There was a trick I read about somewhere that if the parts are still in the curing stage you can use a hair blow dryer to heat the glass some to bring it around to clamp it to keep it in the correct shape till done curing. Never tried it and don't know how much heat, but best to keep it spead evenly and not blister it.

    Well I tried using a heat gun. No such luck. Guess it was already cured? Or they were actually off that much.

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