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Thread: Stude M5 build
          
   
   

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  1. #376
    v8nutz's Avatar
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    Been busy on the truck. Decided I should finish fitting the bed wood, I had it so it would sit in there but it wasn't mounted or finished around the edges. So made some mounting strips with rivet nuts, the rest of the stainless strips are held in with washes with rivet nuts and a stainless screw. It all in there now and mounted solid.
    I also got some nylon tailgate straps and installed them.


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    Mike P, NTFDAY, johnboy and 2 others like this.

  2. #377
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    So installing the trex bed wood got me thinking about all the heat from the exhaust and the possible melting of the wood. Also noticed the floor on the passenger side getting hot on a warm day. So spent a few days making heat shields, a pain the rear for sure. Used my rivet tool like crazy on all this stuff, if you don't have one GET ONE! How did I live without it? Feel the same about my led headlight.

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  3. #378
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    I haven't been enjoying the ride quality, it's very firm. At first I thought springs but they should actually be light because they were meant to be used with factory air shocks. Figured it must be the KYB gas-a-just. I've used KYB on previous cars and really liked them but these are too much. I took off the back today and drove around and it was noticeably softer. Thinking I will get some OEM type shocks unless anyone has a better suggestion. I noticed with the back shocks off it dropped about an inch.

  4. #379
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    Changed the shocks yesterday to OEM spec Monroe, they are still gas shocks. Disappointed that the ride is still very firm, it is not as bad but I was hoping for better. Might have something to do with this truck being about a thousand pounds lighter than the Explorer was, so the valving is set up for that.

  5. #380
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Quote Originally Posted by v8nutz View Post
    Changed the shocks yesterday to OEM spec Monroe, they are still gas shocks. Disappointed that the ride is still very firm, it is not as bad but I was hoping for better. Might have something to do with this truck being about a thousand pounds lighter than the Explorer was, so the valving is set up for that.
    I think you're right, the (likely always) unloaded truck is rear end light, so you don't need much damping action at all. I question gas shocks for it, and would be tempted to try a regular old school shock on it.
    NTFDAY and 34_40 like this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  6. #381
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    Yes, these are oem type shocks, not sure if they make a regular shock for this. I used Explorer front but the back mounts were modified to keep the bed low so late 80's 4runner shocks on the back. I could have some Bilstein's revalved for a chunk of change I'm sure. I did that on the Miata and the first valving was like a rock, the 2nd is maybe too soft but I didn't want to keep pouring money in.

  7. #382
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    I just did a bunch of googling and it seems there is no hydraulic shock for the Explorer. You can buy some for classic cars.

  8. #383
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    So I found one reasonably priced old school hydro shock out there and it looks like I can get a size that will work even though they don't list them for Explorer. It's the Skyjacker hydro 7000, they boast it has a soft ride and is non gas charged. They are geared toward off road. I think I'm going to return the Monroes and get them.

  9. #384
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    I've run Skyjacker's on my Jeep for years. They've been great for me and stood up to offroad flexing back when I did more of it!
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    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  10. #385
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    I got my door latches installed. Man that was a lot of work! All the the little arms that had to be fabbed to hook up the door handles and the lock. I have the electric lock motors installed and tested but still have to install my alarm to get the actual use of them.


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    Mike P and NTFDAY like this.

  11. #386
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    Don't make the alarm real sensitive, it can drive you nuts and depending on brand can run the battery down.
    Mike P likes this.
    Ken Thomas
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  12. #387
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    Just a basic Viper, I've used them on several cars and been happy with them. Never set up electric locks before though.

  13. #388
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    Well, it certainly looks complicated enough to make you want to pull out some hair.
    But I bet it works a treat!
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  14. #389
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    I got the Skyjacker hydro shocks on and they are as soft as I'm going to get. It still rides kind of firm but better. One of the main issues is the front is about a 1/4 off it's bump stop, the lack of a gas shock let it drop down further. I tightened up the handy torsion adjusters some to raise it and it has helped the ride. I ordered some Belltech progressive bump stops that will give me some more travel and a softer bottoming.
    NTFDAY and JOATMON like this.

  15. #390
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    Good news followed by really bad news. I got my alarm in and have the door locks working. The really bad news- it wouldn't start. The check engine light is not lighting up and the fuel pump wasn't working. I traced down a blown fuse for the PCM power but it keeps blowing the fuse. I put a 15 amp in there and it gets really hot as soon as I start the engine. Still no check engine light. I am completely baffled.

    I did think I heard an electrical sound yesterday when I was wiring the alarm, sounded like it came from the engine compartment and lasted a few seconds. I wasn't even sure if it came from the truck but now I'm wondering although I have no idea what that could be. Pretty depressing.

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