Thread: 1964 Ford F100
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09-26-2016 03:33 AM #1
I was taught that "If it's ugly, it is weak."
Don't just cover it up with sheet metal, take a little extra time and at least address that open ended section. It shouldn't be too hard or take to long to cut that out and make a piece to tie it all back together.
The abrupt and open end just leaves the associated stress to be handled by the surrounding pieces that are connected to "something". If you don't want to fix this, then don't bother boxing the frame , the stresses further back are relatively less that what this area has to handle.
I really don't want to sound harsh, of course it is your truck and your budget / your build....
We may have to share the same piece of road someday, I'd like it to be a safe one.
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09-26-2016 08:22 PM #2
What he said.
Here in NZ we are not allowed to grind or dress welds, the safety examiner wants to be able to see the weld exactly as it was laid; he them has a better idea of how good the integrity of the weld is.
In critical areas it's even x-rayed before being passed.
While it is a hassle; ultimately, for safety reasons it's a good idea.
I know that the scratch built car coming at me on the road is safe.johnboy
Mountain man. (Retired.)
Some mistakes are too much fun to be made only once.
I don't know everything about anything, and I don't know anything about lots of things.
'47 Ford sedan. 350 -- 350, Jaguar irs + ifs.
'49 Morris Minor. Datsun 1500cc, 5sp manual, Marina front axle, Nissan rear axle.
'51 Ford school bus. Chev 400 ci Vortec 5 sp manual + Gearvendors 2sp, 2000 Chev lwb dually chassis and axles.
'64 A.C. Cobra replica. Ford 429, C6 auto, Torana ifs, Jaguar irs.





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