Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree39Likes

Thread: 1964 Ford F100
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 56
  1. #1
    Coyboy54 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Elk Grove
    Posts
    11

    1964 Ford F100

     



    Hello,

    Just started working on a 1964 Ford F100. The truck had a Lincoln front end welded on and looks similar to a 66 ford galaxie 500 front end. I have some experience working on cars, but this is my first project alone. I would love any input on ideas and tips. Truck has no motor or trans currently. Will be posting pictures as I move along.

    Thanks
    Attached Images
    glennsexton and t-top havoc like this.

  2. #2
    johnboy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Tataraimaka NZ
    Car Year, Make, Model: `47 Ford sedan, A.C.Cobra replica.
    Posts
    2,630

    Welcome to CHR!
    Looks like a pretty big project you've got in front of you, have you tackled something like this before?
    johnboy
    Mountain man. (Retired.)
    Some mistakes are too much fun to be made only once.
    I don't know everything about anything, and I don't know anything about lots of things.

    '47 Ford sedan. 350 -- 350, Jaguar irs + ifs.
    '49 Morris Minor. Datsun 1500cc, 5sp manual, Marina front axle, Nissan rear axle.
    '51 Ford school bus. Chev 400 ci Vortec 5 sp manual + Gearvendors 2sp, 2000 Chev lwb dually chassis and axles.
    '64 A.C. Cobra replica. Ford 429, C6 auto, Torana ifs, Jaguar irs.

  3. #3
    Coyboy54 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Elk Grove
    Posts
    11

    I have worked with my dad and brother on a 67 Cougar growing up and my dad has had many projects over the years that I have joined in on, but this is my first big project. My dad and I have ideas for the truck but its also nice to hear others opinions and see if other have had any successes or failures with this truck.

  4. #4
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,606

    Welcome to CHR Cowboy54. It's good to see you here.
    What "vision" do you have for the truck? A cruiser? Maybe some racing??
    The IFS in the front should make for a more comfortable ride and safer with disc brakes when compared to the old drum setup.

    Is the bed original to the truck? I don't really remember those rear fenders with that body style.

  5. #5
    Coyboy54 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Elk Grove
    Posts
    11

    Thank you, I think a mixture of both would be great for this truck. I agree the front end with be better than original but I am unsure how well it was attached and since the truck is pretty empty I think taking my time and really putting the right effort into making the frame and suspension the best i can will really help with the performance later. As far as i know its original but cant be 100% sure. Im trying to research the truck more and more.

  6. #6
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is online now CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    10,988

    Welcome to CHR. To Mike's (34_40) question, here's a couple of pictures of the '64 F100 'flare side' bed style. The flat 'styleside' was much more common, but the flare side has a really nice look, to my eye.

    1964.jpg

    1964 f100.jpg

    FYI, if you've got a typo in your screen name you can PM "mrmustang" to ask him to change it for you. Thinking that you may have intended "Cowboy54"? Only a moderator can make changes to the screen name once it's set.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  7. #7
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,606

    Thanks for jogging my memory Mr Spears.

  8. #8
    Coyboy54 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Elk Grove
    Posts
    11

    Thanks for the photos, I do like the stepside look better than the straight bed as well. As for my name it is correct with Coyboy54. It was a nickname growing up.

  9. #9
    Coyboy54 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Elk Grove
    Posts
    11

    UPDATE

    Well a lot of time has passed. The cab and bed came off and the frame was given a much needed power wash, my goal is to have the frame blasted and painted. I want began to grind down the welds of the lincoln front end to see if they should be fixed or not, I think im going to try to fix all of them with the help of a professional welder friend.

    Does anyone have recommendations on where to box a frame? Does it need to be all the way up and down or are there specific spots I should focus on? The truck also has a funky sunroof that ill probably keep for now because I don't really want to fill it in, but I do want to get rid of the bubble with maybe just a flat piece of plexiglass or something. Any ideas are welcome!

    Thanks.
    IMG_0380.JPGIMG_0370.JPGIMG_0367.JPGIMG_0371.JPGIMG_0364.JPG

  10. #10
    Coyboy54 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Elk Grove
    Posts
    11

    IMG_0383.JPGIMG_0382.JPGIMG_0384.JPGHere are photos of the cab off and the funky sunroof

  11. #11
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,606

    OH that poor frame! It looks like someone was taking welding class on that job.. Glad to hear you've got a pro to help you make it right. As far as boxing it in, it looks like the front is done so if you wanted to - you can fill in all the way to the rear suspension points. If this will be a cruiser then I would probably just get under the cab done.

    As for the roof... it will be a pita to remove the window and refill the metal (imho) unless you can find a similar year or body style to match it to.

    Thanks for sharing the build and the pics.

  12. #12
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,987

    Hey Cowboy, welcome to CHR! That's quite a project you have there. I have a '66 F100 shortbed styleside. While they look about the same on the outside, there were some big changes in cab floor, steering, etc between '64 and '65 when Ford came out with the twin-i-beam suspension.

    '64 was the last year of the straight front axle, which is why most people want to upgrade the front suspension to something that is more driver friendly. There are many options out there like the Lincoln/Galaxie frame graft, Camaro frame graft, Jaguar K member (bolts or welds to F100 frame rails), Crown Vic K member ('03-'11 aluminum K member bolts to F100 frame rails), Dodge Dakota custom crossmember kit developed by Industrial Chassis in AZ using stock Dakota components, and various beefed up Mustang II style weld-in suspensions. Some guys even mount the shortbed truck body on to a complete Crown Vic chassis because the wheelbase of the car is compatible with the truck. Each have their positive and negative attributes.

    You, obviously, have that choice made for you already. If installed safely and correctly, that suspension should work well for you. Hopefully, the installers had the foresight to move the centerline of the front wheels forward at least 1-1.5" to better center the front tire in the wheel wells since the factory OEM did not.

    My '66 has the twin-i-beam from suspension. For the sake of time & money, I lowered it by using DJM dream beams, an aftermarket lower kit. It was bolt on. At some point after I win the lottery or have some other type of windfall profit, I may consider some other type of exciting performance suspension but this will do for now.

    As for the obnoxious (sorry, couldn't help it...lol) sunroof someone cut in your cab, the easiest repair would be find another rust free cab for your truck, especially if you also have rust in the floors and elsewhere.

    These guys here are great and extremely helpful! There are also a couple of Ford truck forums and Facebook groups you may find helpful, too.

    Anyway, I've babbled long enough for now. Here's a pic of my '66. It's a continual work in progress/daily driver. I'm running a fuel injected 5.0/AOD from a '92 Mustang GT and it's great. I'd love to have the new 5.0 Coyote engine but, so far, it's cost prohibitive!
    Attached Images
    34_40, MP&C and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  13. #13
    Coyboy54 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Elk Grove
    Posts
    11

    HEy guys,

    34_40 Yeah that section of the frame is full of holes and uneven welds. May just even it out as much as possible and weld new plates over the top to make it one solid piece. Thank you for the boxing info. I still haven't decided the power plant I will be putting in so I want to make sure whatever does go in will be good to go with no problems.

    randyr thanks for the tip on the front end needing to be moved forward. Do you know where I can measure to check? Based on what I saw when I got the truck it looks to be sitting in the right spot or doesn't look off. It also has a nice natural drop in the front suspension so I dont think I will need to add any lowering kits to the front. I would love to run a brand new coyote as well but like you said too much money for me. I think the sunroof will stay for now. My cab is in great shape except for the paint. No real rust on the truck anywhere, but I will look to try and remove the bubbled glass and replace with flat glass.

    Thats a nice clean you truck you have there! hope to get mine to look that way in the future!

  14. #14
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

    Wellllllll------you could do one side at a time and eliminate the botched section while restructuring the front to the truck frame under say the area of the trans crossmember---------when welded up then cut out the botch area and flat plate the open channels in that area------

    I don't remember if the mid 60s used a 9 inch rear ??????

  15. #15
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,987

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post

    I don't remember if the mid 60s used a 9 inch rear ??????
    Yes, starting around 1957 up thru '86
    rspears likes this.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink