383 Stroker Build

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Originally Posted by DennyW

And, remember, always double check everything, before you go for that run...

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Got it:) Denny, you know i'll probably get with ya on some things too before i do that first test and tune night! Man, you've given me some sound advice and help too on this build from timing to cooling as well as other side automotive things we've got going on!! Having guys like you, Richard, 34/40, my Dad, Jerry, and so many others on this Forum in my corner helping me is something you just can't put a price tag on. I'm only 40 and still have a ways to go in life but everything you've guys have shared with me on cars and motors has been soaked up and and the knowledge put to use.

Video shot from last Saturday, about a minute long,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSrOPsvsSBg

That sounds awesome! It sure makes me miss mine.

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Originally Posted by Rdobbs1977

Got it:) Denny, you know i'll probably get with ya on some things too before i do that first test and tune night! Man, you've given me some sound advice and help too on this build from timing to cooling as well as other side automotive things we've got going on!! Having guys like you, Richard, 34/40, my Dad, Jerry, and so many others on this Forum in my corner helping me is something you just can't put a price tag on. I'm only 40 and still have a ways to go in life but everything you've guys have shared with me on cars and motors has been soaked up and and the knowledge put to use.

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What a class act you are! This has been one of the best threads ever and it is due largely to your outstanding attitude of wanting to learn and be coached along this project. Can hardly wait to see a video of your first drag strip run. I know I speak for many here when I say you folks raised a great son and one to be very proud of!

Best,
Glenn

[QUOTE=DennyW;564649]A few things keep popping into my head to ask. What type of driveshaft are you using, and what type of U

Yes, we've got the U strap for driveshaft as it was my understanding that was required. Can't advise at the moment on type of d.shaft and u joints we're using. Timing is at 33 right now but plan to bump it to 36 before we start racing. I also don't forsee a starting problem for us bumping those few degrees either but that is something I will check. Advance curve if I can juggle the right concepts in my head lol is all in at about 2700 RPMs. What ya thinking Denny, I don't want to start second guessing things but will if needed!!!! In the video shot, I just steadily raised the RPMs with momentary pauses before bumping up higher those few times. Highest rpm in that video was 4000.

Permetex #2. Works good to seal threads that go into water. Its non hardening

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Sounds great, absolutely LOVE the air filter assembly.....LET 'ER BREATHE !!!!!! :D

This is a good lesson for you other fellows who want to build a hot motor. Just follow the instructions and you will be successful like Mr. Dobbs.

No break-in necessary with a roller. Fire it and go.

Robert, please get me a couple more photos of your seat arrangement and the belts. Does the crotch strap come up through the seat or come around the front of the seat to fasten up with the lap balts/shoulder belts?



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Richard, see the pics. So am i good to go, what ya think? :)

here's a second pic

CREDENTIALS
Valid NHRA competition license mandatory for cars running 9.99
(*6.39) or quicker.Valid state- or government-issued driver’s
license beyond a learner’s-permit level mandatory for cars
running 10.00 (*6.40) or slower. See General Regulations 10:4.

DRIVER RESTRAINT SYSTEM
Seat belt mandatory in all cars. Three-inch driver restraint system
meeting SFI Spec 16.1 mandatory in any car running 11.49
(*7.35) or quicker.
SFI 16.1 restraint system, when required, includes
crotch strap and must be updated at two-year intervals from date
of manufacture. See General Regulations 10:5, 10:11.

HEAD PROTECTOR
In any car where a roll bar or roll cage is installed, a padded head
protector must be provided at the back of the driver’s head and
constructed in an attempt to prevent whiplash upon impact. The
roll bar or cage must be padded wherever it may come in contact
with the driver’s helmet. Adequate padding should permit
minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1. The use
of weather stripping and similar thin or low impact resisting
materials is prohibited. A padded roll bar or cage alone is not
acceptable as a padded head protector unless it is within 4 inches
of the driver’s helmet. A seat that incorporates a reinforced head
rest is permitted.

HELMET
For all 10.00 to 13.99 closed-bodied cars, either an open-face or
a full-face Snell M2005, M2010, K2005, SA2005, SA2010, SFI 31.1/2005 or 41.1/2005 helmet with or without a shield is mandatory.

For all 9.99 and quicker closed-bodied cars, 9.99 (*6.39) to 7.50 (*4.50 ) or any vehicle exceeding 135
mph: Full-face Snell
M2005, M2010, K2005, SA2005, or SA2010 helmet mandatory;
shield permitted (goggles prohibited).

PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
All Participants.......
Full-length pants; short- or long-sleeved shirt; closed shoes; and
socks. No shorts. No tank tops. No open-toe or open-heel shoes
or sandals. Synthetic clothing not recommended.

10.00 (*6.40) to 13.99 (*8.59); all E.T. non-OEM supercharged,
non-OEM turbocharged, or nitrous-equipped cars with an OEM
or .024-inch steel firewall: Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1
mandatory.

9.99 (*6.39) to 7.50 (*4.50 ) or any vehicle exceeding 135
mph: Jacket and pants meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/5 and gloves
meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1 mandatory, except as noted above.

It's hard to tell details of your belt system, but what I can see of it looks OK. On the crossbar where the belts go around the bar, put a worn-screw clamp around the bar on each side of each belt after lining them up on the crossbar at exactly the proper position for them to go straight through the seat. The idea is to prevent the belts from sliding on the crossbar. Here's the idea.....If, for some reason, you moved the belts to the side for some reason and then got into the car to make a pass with the belts not lined up and you tightened the belts on your body (you thought they were tight because they tightened up on your body), but then you have an incident like an impact or rollover that allows the belts to move on the crossbar and loosen up, then you could be thrown out of the belts the next time the car rolls or flips. It gets ugly from there. So, line the belts up and insure their parking place with clamps. This shouild then be one of your "pre-flight" checks each time you make a pass, along with fuel in the tank or cell, water in the radiator, empty fluid catch can at the radiator, battery fully charged, tire pressure, etc., etc.

I used to recommend to the fellows to bring the car out when you can make an appointment with all of the tech guys to look at the car at once, like before or after an event that you will not participate in. If you have more than one tech inspector looking at the car at the same time, it is just human nature that they will try to outdo each other in finding things that are outside the rules......and that's what you want.......you want them to find every little detail that does not satisfy them, then make it right and you'll never again have a problem with tech at that track.

I'll tell you something else that will make fast friends of the tech inspectors. If you brought a grill with you and will fix something to eat later, invite the tech guys over for a plate. You will be their hero, I can guarantee it. Also tell them that you will always have cold water for them at your pit.

Immediately after you enter the gates and pay up, pick out a pit space and fill out your tech card and sign it. DO NOT PUT THIS OFF, do it first thing, before you unload the car. I used to cruise the pits right after the gates opened, looking for fellows that I knew absolutely would pass tech, no question, because I had looked at the car many times. When I saw a car that I knew very well, I would follow him to his pit and wait for him to fill out his card, then just sign off on the card and wish him luck. He would never have to go to tech and wait in line because he was one of the fellows who made my job easier with meals at the big events, etc. If you make the tech guy's life easier, he will make your life easier.

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https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=5w1qoc_JIsI

We hope to be on the track this year. Tested the new trailer out and first loading car on it. Just need some tires, suit, and helmet. Richard, I'm going to take another look at your post on this before I order. I plan to just try and bracket race a little bit first (provided i can get past the tech inspectors and learn the car through test and tune ha ha). By the way, how do i go about getting an NHRA license? I figure i need one, right?

pic of car on trailer for first time

Mr. Dobbs, she's a beautiful thing to behold.....:D

Licensing begins at 9.99 elapsed time. Slower than that requires no license, other than a valid driver's license. If you are going to get your license, ask the tech inspector for an application for a doctor's physical exam and a license application. They may or may not have the paperwork at the drag strip. If not, you will have to secure it from the NHRA Division Director or Division Tech Director or from NHRA headquarters in Glendora, California. Your physical will expire each two years, along with your license. Also at 9.99, there are several upgrades that have to be made over a car that's going 10.00 or slower. One of the main things is a chassis certification, made using an ultrasonic "beeper" to test cage tubing wall thickness. (I used to do this for NHRA). The driver must tech for 9.99 and the car must tech for 9.99.

A new driver who has not previously held a competition license will be asked for his license application and physical exam results, signed by his doctor, then he will be given a special cockpit-orientation (blindfold) test, and will be required to make a minimum of six runs under the observation of two licensed drivers and a designated NHRA official, usually a bronze or silver certified tech inspector who works at the track.

Drag racing begins to get very expensive at 9.99

You are in NHRA Division 2. Scroll down here to Division 2 and see the info on the Division Director....
http://sportsman.nhra.com/tracks/dd.htm
I can't seem to find the Division 2 Tech Director. You might have to call the Division Director and get the info.....This may have changed, so talk with the Division Director to make plans to have the car chassis certed.

Here is a list of certified tech inspectors who are capable of doing a chassis certification....
http://cms.nhra.com/chassisinspectors/

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