Thread: Dragster body

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This is a project I did last summer. A friend of mine was recreating a 60's
era Chassis Research dragster which were offered in kit form back in the day.
He had done a great job on the chassis, and drive train, and needed a simple
body of the style in vogue at the time. I had always wanted to try forming a
dragster body so I agreed to give it a shot. There won't be too much metal
shaping as these are simple bodies. I'm just an amateur at this so it will be a
learning experience.
I'm using .063 3003 H14 alum which is heavier than .050 commonly used, but
holds it's shape better. The owner isn't worried about weight, this is a fun
car, not a record holder. Not having a radius break I decided to use my slip
rolls which are 36" w/2" rolls. I fabbed an xtra large handle to help with the
shaping. I'm only rolling about an 8" stretch of metal to form the body shape.

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Rich

Here I'm fine tuning the leading edge which bows out when rolled. This is caused
by the rolls bowing in the center from the high pressure. I had to wrap a 2 x 4
with a towel, and beat on it while still in the slip roll to get it close. I got pretty
good at this before the job was over! LOL

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Rich

The owner wanted the firewall seperate from the engine plate like many cars of that
era. I formed a 1/4" firewall that will be sealed to the engine plate later.


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Drilled, and tapped the frame for recessed fasteners. The first Dzus clip is installed
at the top center of the chassis hoop.

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Rich

I welded a piece of angle to the rear hoop to mount a Dzus clip at the desired
body panel height.

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These 2 x 4's are the hi tech spacers used to set that panel height. There is a sample
try piece laying on the cowl to help visualize the wind screen shape.

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Rich

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This panel still needs the cowl shaped, and the hole for the steering shaft.

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Rich

I have shaped a wood buck to use as a hammer form which is under the panel.
The top piece of wood is prevent distortion.

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Another view.

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Rich

Here I have metal worked all the forming marks.

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Template time.

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Rich

I was going to use a engine turned piece of alum, but changed my mind. Will
address this later.

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Notice the Dzus about 5" in front of the wind screen.

Rich

This tool is available from Summit to counter sink the Dzus fastener.

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I ordered the weld plates from Summit SUM-G1624, the flush head fasteners
SUM-G1640

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Rich

The spring determines the tension on the body panels. I adjust the tension by
bending the spring to either tighten or loosen the grip of the fastener. The tension
varies since some panels over lap which doubles the thickness resulting in a
different tension than a single panel. Bend both sides of the spring evenly above
the rivet.

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I adjust the spring before welding the plates on, and use a small tab to simulate the
over lapping panel. It's easy to bend the plate so I do it in the vise, and make small
adjustments on the car.

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Rich

This shows how bending the plate keeps the finished panel clear of the weld
and hanger.

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Mocking up to determine side panel which will have 3 sides attached.
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Rich

I ordered 1/8" polycarbonate from Sheffield Plastics. This stuff is amazing, I
could not shatter it with a hammer, and was able to run it through my bead
roller.
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Here shows the step I rolled to butt against the cowl panel.
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Rich

I did use a heat gun to shape the panel, but you could proably get away with out it.
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I made some wood bucks to clamp to the main chassis rails. The rear end has been
pulled back out of the way in this pic.
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Rich

Can't have too many clamps!
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Yes! I love machinest blueing, helps these old eyes see the line.
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Rich

This panel is running about an 1 1/2" past the firewall as there will be a panel
below the headers.
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Finally located the hole for the steering, I had fabricated the steering arm previously.
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Rich