Thread: 1931 Model A Coupe

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I think the idea of one being "easier" than the other is simply the comfort level with the medium we're using at the moment.

With metal welding, if the joint is larger or smaller as the piece is joined, it's simple to change the speed of adding filler rod etc. etc.

In glass work, I'm always stressing in getting the fibers exposed and intertwined and keeping air bubbles from the joint, etc. etc.

So you're right, one is as bad as the other and it's all in what we are more comfortable working with. Thanks to you too!

Nice work

You nailed it Mike! I spent a lot of time with glass, and T buckets! LOL
Thanks Steve!

I had been wanting to make my own side panels for the hood to mount
blisters on for valve cover clearance. I was surprised to find the hood
is closer to 20 gauge than 19 like most of the body. Probably a weight
issue as the hood is pretty heavy to open. All the panels are hemmed
to stiffen it up, and also to keep paint on the edges. I also found that the
edge against the cowl is not straight, it has the slightest curve to it.
The edge against the rad shell is straight, but neither is 90 degrees from
the hinged side.
I made a small try piece so I could figure the take up for the bends, and also
to finalize the shape of the reveal line.
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I cut a random piece 5" which I will measure after every operation.
Rich

I created the hems by over bending the piece in my brake, but did not beat
them flat with a hammer. I did not want to chance stretching the metal, and
causing the edges to be wavy. I pressed them flat with my press using only
enough pressure to close the hem. Probably over cautious, but I have the
time!
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A later pic, but the method I used to press the hems.
Rich

Now I bent a 90 on the hem which will be the bottom of the reveal line, and
strengthen the bottom edge of the hood panel.
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I layed out the reveal line on the try piece after trying several methods on scrap.
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Rich

Beading the reveal.
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The finished try piece.
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To soften the reveal shoulder I move the dies further apart. This isn't a 'perfect'
match of the body reveal, but pretty darn close.
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Now I can start on the hood panels.
Rich

After many, many measurements I laid out the first panel with the only excess
material at the hinge side. I had to notch the corners for hem clearance.
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Beading the reveal line.
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The blue tape is the hood position when closed.
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Rich

I'm using the hinge from the original hood. I plan to overlay my panel onto
the hinge assembly. The stock side panels have a offset in them that
allows them to fit under the top panel. I hope to duplicate this to attach
my panel to.
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I had to reshape the hinge slightly to make up for the thickness of adding my panel.
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Rich

This view shows the hinge which I have bent a 90 on for strength, and trimmed
back the ends of the 90 to clear rad shell, and firewall lacing. Note the over lap of my panel to match the original, very little margin for error. I used the same bead
roller setup to form the overlap. I ran the bead than cut it back till leave the
desired shape. I riveted the panel on which saves a bunch of work, and will
match up to my blisters.
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This shows how the panel folds under the top panel.
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Rich

Finally!, this stage took longer than pics make it appear! LOL
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The above pic shows the panel after hand forming a gentle bend in the whole panel
to match firewall, and rad shell. The bottom lower left part of the panel did not
want to follow the curve of the firewall. I had to shrink the small 90 on the bottom
of the reveal line from the middle of the hood to the corner.
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This pic shows the gentle curve in the finished panel (sorry for the poor pic!)
Rich

I did not plan on using ignition wire covers on the valve covers, but decided
I wanted the option. This meant I needed to make new larger blisters, I seem
to do everything twice!
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I made these out of 19 gauge CR steel instead of alum like the others. I also shaped
the hammer form to mimic the slight curve of the hood panel to stop the possibility
of oil canning.
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Rich

Dividing the rivet holes after planishing.
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My next project is to make some tabs to fit under the stainless cowl band which
wants to slip off. They make clips for this, but I don't like their appearance. Mine
will be hidden underneath, and will give me the correct hood gap since my hood
is straight on that edge.
Rich

WOW!.. that came out great! Again, thanks!

This is some really good stuff Rich!

Thanks guys! After adjusting the cowl band, and fabbing side panels for
inside the trunk I'll have all the rough body work done. I'll than pull the body
to plumb all the lines, and paint the frame. Progress !! LOL

Heres a little project I did for my friend that we made the dizzy cover for. He
wanted a bezel for his defrosters. A little 1/4" alum which I milled down to 3/16"
after shaping. We used a backer to buff the pieces to keep them from flying
off into space! LOL The dash will have 1/4" padding under leather when finished.
Not much, but we love pics!
Rich

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