Thread: Followed Me Home II

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Back at it today, and decided on a different tack on the corner problem. I'd cut one piece putting the grooves to the inside and wasn't happy with it, and had just about decided to buy a couple of pieces of aluminum sheet stock that I could form, but I decided to try putting the grooves on the outside of the curve and I liked the result better. I needed a 90 corner at the bottom, fanning to a curve at the top matching the body. After a bit of finagling I used a 1.75" bottom, 1.25" flat at the top, and 7.5" of curve.
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Took the fence off of the radial arm saw to give me more length for the cut, set the blade ~3/32" above the table and cut the grooves. I'd drawn the corner curve on a piece of matt board stock, transferred that to a piece of 2x6 stock and used the inside curve to form the corner.
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After tacking the piece to the upper corner and a small 90 block at the bottom I flooded the grooves with resin, added a layer of cloth and slopped on more resin and let it dry.
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As Gomer used to say, "Surprise, Surprise, Surprise!" It seemed to work!
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Not sure yet, but I may add a 1" strip of plywood to my corner piece to overlay the back panel and cover any gap, or I may just leave it alone and let the foam & material hide the gap.
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All in all, I'm happy with the corners. Got the other side cut & glassed. Tomorrow I'll trim it to fit, then drill both corners & the body for clips, then get the door panels mounted to line up. As jb likes to say, another duck in the row!
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Originally Posted by rspears

Back at it today, and decided on a different tack on the corner problem. I'd cut one piece putting the grooves to the inside and wasn't happy with it, and had just about decided to buy a couple of pieces of aluminum sheet stock that I could form, but I decided to try putting the grooves on the outside of the curve and I liked the result better. I needed a 90 corner at the bottom, fanning to a curve at the top matching the body. After a bit of finagling I used a 1.75" bottom, 1.25" flat at the top, and 7.5" of curve.
-
Took the fence off of the radial arm saw to give me more length for the cut, set the blade ~3/32" above the table and cut the grooves. I'd drawn the corner curve on a piece of matt board stock, transferred that to a piece of 2x6 stock and used the inside curve to form the corner.
-
After tacking the piece to the upper corner and a small 90 block at the bottom I flooded the grooves with resin, added a layer of cloth and slopped on more resin and let it dry.
-
As Gomer used to say, "Surprise, Surprise, Surprise!" It seemed to work!
-
Not sure yet, but I may add a 1" strip of plywood to my corner piece to overlay the back panel and cover any gap, or I may just leave it alone and let the foam & material hide the gap.
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All in all, I'm happy with the corners. Got the other side cut & glassed. Tomorrow I'll trim it to fit, then drill both corners & the body for clips, then get the door panels mounted to line up. As jb likes to say, another duck in the row!
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That's bloody clever.
I like your style.

You should shout yourself a nice cold beer to celebrate.

Well done, Roger. The result speaks for itself. I would not worry about the gap you have as it is minor, and the foam will more than compensate for it once the upholstery goes in.

Originally Posted by rumrumm

Well done, Roger. The result speaks for itself. I would not worry about the gap you have as it is minor, and the foam will more than compensate for it once the upholstery goes in.

Thanks for all the kind words, and Lynn your comment made me think that I need to cut back that joint line to allow room for the interior material to wrap to the back. The foam stops at the edge, but the material wraps, and I too think the foam will compensate.

Originally Posted by rspears

Thanks for all the kind words, and Lynn your comment made me think that I need to cut back that joint line to allow room for the interior material to wrap to the back. The foam stops at the edge, but the material wraps, and I too think the foam will compensate.

I was later thinking that perhaps a shim behind the wood to hold the panel further in and get the difference to be less would be easiest perhaps.?.?

Originally Posted by 34_40

I was later thinking that perhaps a shim behind the wood to hold the panel further in and get the difference to be less would be easiest perhaps.?.?

I believe the easiest approach, if I decide it needs help, is to mix up a little "bondo", tape the edge of the corner pieces, and lay on a tapered layer back a couple of inches. The other idea that I had was to cut a 3/4" or 1" wide strip of the thin plywood and glue it to the panel that's proud, forming an overlay to cover the joint. I kind of like that idea, but it's still a big IF right now.

Back out this morning and got the second corner trimmed to fit then drilled for clips and got them both mounted. Like I said, I may do a bit of filling, but in truth these pieces are going to be tucked tight behind the seats, which are all the way back for me. We'll see.
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The door panels are near flat, except for the top corner at the hinge side where it tips in about 1/2", enough to keep trim clips from pulling the panel flush. With the success of the corners I decided to try the same thing on the bend and made a few cuts on the back side.
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With a couple of strips of 1/2" plywood under the panel I clamped the corner to the bench....
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...and glassed the back side. Worst case is cutting a new panel.
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But it worked!
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I got the second door panel taped in place to be marked & trimmed to final size, then it will get drilled for clips. Both kick panels also got a bit of backside relief to ease the curves a bit, and they should be in place tomorrow, too, then put the seats back in place and visit the stitcher about seat upholstery, and see if he wants to do panels and carpet too.