Thread: Followed Me Home II

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Originally Posted by 34_40

Not sure how I missed this yesterday?? In any event - You Scored! It should be a fun build...

Yeah, I missed it, too!!! Congrats, Roger!! Hope you have lots of Testors cement for your new AMT kit! It'll be fun even with the Chebbie motor!

Nice Project! I started just a quick read but got interested as it came up to date with fairly rapid progress! While we had only three moderate snow falls I have put my roadster in the garage and gone into hibernation until some real signs of Spring!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Rodger, I started looking at the first post and then I read the whole thread. It's going to be a beautiful car! Some of this is similar to my previous build of a 'glass '29 roadster. An obvious comment is to make sure you have fluid in the new 700R4. I left mine sit dry for over four years and the bands stuck so that I only had first and third gears which led to a whole new transmission! I also have a 3.55 (eight inch) rear with the 700R4 and get a bit of lugging at low speed in OD so that I have to manually downshift, so you may wish for a 3.7 rear gear. With a slightly built 350 it is nearly impossible to accelerate without chirping the shift to second (Monster 700R4) BUT running at 1900rpm in OD can lug a bit even in a light car. I was interested in your plastic gas tank if you intend to hang it in the stock position. As you may recall I invested in a 14 gauge stainless tank in the trunk and although I did install a seat belt the state trooper who titled my 'glass replica never batted an eye over that. However the local inspection monitored the ground clearance of my stainless front bumper (5" dropped I-beam) so I had to add two 1/2" plates above the buggy spring. However, your front suspension will be more difficult to adjust the height so your choice of the SoCal mounts is a good answer. If you decide to leave the outside tank on there for looks and/or put the real tank in the trunk you may recall that I added a 4" wide 1/4" steel plate across the rear square tubing and changed the 'glass body from a squishy side vibration to a solid rock and this protects the tank as well as the thicker 14 gauge stainless. It is like deja vu for me but you certainly do better work than I did. Hey I just looked at the strength grade of the stainless bolts I used and with fenders I just used nyloc nuts on the bottom where they are only seen at oil change time! Have fun with the wiring, I spent 18 months installing and debugging the wires! Don't forget the extra ground wires on the 'glass. Your work on the hood tabs is excellent but my Brookville A-frame came with tabs already installed and totally hidden under the fenders my wife required! I will be inerested in your radiator cooling system using full hood sides, I had to use a dual electric fan set up and an electric water pump which probably would not be necessary with open hood sides. The engine compartment really gets hot in the summer! Keep up the good work!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

This is Awesome

Forgot to mention that as we were loading a guy stopped on the side street and came wandering over to chat with the PO. An obvious hot rodder he was interested, and wishing it was his trailer instead of mine Said he had a '34 Show Me roadster, and "...a few more...", then asked, "Do you need a flathead to drop in it? I've got a '53 with high compression heads, a 3x1 Edelbrock setup.... that I'd like to sell." We talked a few minutes, I got his name & general location and will probably go see what he's got one of these days.

Roger, one of the chevy truck boards I'm on has an A833 4 speed listed on there for $250. 4th gear is an OD in them and a chevy bell housing can be obtained for it. Let me know if that's something you might be interested in and I'll get you the link. Ryan.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Roger, one of the chevy truck boards I'm on has an A833 4 speed listed on there for $250. 4th gear is an OD in them and a chevy bell housing can be obtained for it. Let me know if that's something you might be interested in and I'll get you the link. Ryan.

Ryan,
Thanks, but I promised Mama that this one would have an automatic. I've been looking at 700R4's from Monster Transmission & Performance, but I'm going to run into town Monday or Tuesday and talk to the guy at the tranny shop there. He just might be interested in the TH350, and he can probably get me a 700R4 and build it to hold up to ~400/430 HP & torque. If anyone has another performance tranny supplier that you like I'd like to hear who.

A question for the Deuce guys. On top of the frame there are six threaded inserts to hold down the body, and immediately in front of the firewall there are four additional threaded holes in a cluster, labeled A, B, C & D in the pictures. Before I just weld them up and smooth them off can anyone tell me exactly what they are for on an OEM assembly, by the letters?

DSC00640.JPG

DSC00639.JPG

Fenders and boards.

guessing mtr mounts??

Here's a couple thousand words worth, you're actually short the front most hole (or maybe the back most for the foot), though the glass body may not be oriented the same as a stocker. Front pair (of yours) for firewall feet (or whatever equivalent the body has), back two for cowl of body/front of subrails (again, glass body may vary)

Wescott Auto


Roger---if this works---if not Wescott auto---build bodies, parts, lots of frame drawings/diminsions in there cataloque and online here

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Wescott Auto


Roger---if this works---if not Wescott auto---build bodies, parts, lots of frame drawings/diminsions in there cataloque and online here

Jerry, Wescott has drawings that dimension the holes, but they don't identify the purpose for them, only relative positions.

FrameDiagram1932.pdf

Thanks though....

Bob's got the lowdown for you on the real steel bods, on the 'glass cars myself and I would imagine many others use these wholes for fender and board brackets....if you're doing a hi-boy just weld them.

Congrats,for tripping over that little lot,Roger..Nice find..Keep you busy for a few weeks..

Roger, As I told you on the phone, after body is mounted just weld up the holes not used. C&D are used for stpck foot firewall A&B who knows, po could have put them there B4 he painted chassis.
Re: Tranny, talk to your guy about a 200R4 ( same size as a 350 externally) or just use the 350 with the right gear in the rear.
Built many with 350/350 a 2:79 rear gear and a 32"tall rear tire that got well over 20mpg runnin stout SBC's