Roger, check on Moroso carb wedge blocks. The open plenum may be a problem, but maybe this could get you within one degree if it's possible to mount it backwards.
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Roger, check on Moroso carb wedge blocks. The open plenum may be a problem, but maybe this could get you within one degree if it's possible to mount it backwards.
Yeah, I looked at those a little earlier, read one description about a wood fiber plate that helps block conduction heat transfer. I suppose one could make a spacer from a smooth, tight grained wood like walnut or poplar, or even from MDF and taper it on a big belt sander to the required angle. Several options to get to the end. Thanks for the link.
'66 Thunderbirds have tapered carb spacers - worht a look.
You can get them from most classic Thunderbird part suppliers Like Larrys Mustand and Thunderbirds.
NB: Check the face is dead flat when you get one- I had to 'surface' mine with 800 wet'n'dry paper on a plate of glass.
I used the Moroso wedge block on my previous street rod. Nice piece and it worked out fine.
The Moroso block looks pretty clean. Of course, since they're sold to the racers to keep the carb level under hard acceleration and weight transfer I guess I could just leave it alone and say that the nose down orientation on the carb was a specific design feature, with he angle of the tilt determined by measuring the squat on the rear tires at 19psig and the movement of the suspension and then building the mounts to fit. ;):rolleyes::LOL: Just kidding, just kidding! This car is a cruiser, built to drive on the street, and will likely never see a full on "launch".
Wow! It's hard to believe that it's been so long since I posted anything on this build thread. I haven't been totally off of it, but haven't really done much, either, mainly due to three different trips we took through the summer. I actually spent some time on the front frame horns today. While it's not really necessary, I really didn't like the look with the boxing plate cutoff point right at the grill area so I started looking at boxing plate options, and picked up some 1/8" bar stock at the metal shop.
Attachment 64858
Problem is that I need access to install headlight stanchions and the spreader bar bolts after paint. I'd seen boxing plates with a series of "lightening holes" somewhere before, and I liked the idea but the holes were pretty small and didn't "flow" right for me so I played around with some poster board...
Attachment 64859
Up front I'm going to do a partial end plate, because the spreader bar still has to slip into place. This is just a piece of poster board, and I'll add a bit of a rim on the inside edge, leaving room for a wrench on the front spreader bar bolt.
Attachment 64856
Got both plates cut out, and will tack them in place, then go back and weld them out when I pull the body off the next time. Just something a little bit different....
Attachment 64857
Tomorrow I'll work on the front pieces, then do some more on a fog lamp mounting bracket that I'd played with some time back. Wanting to get everything done that needs the body in place, then pull the body one more time so I can attack the exhaust from above. Once done The frame will get blown apart for paint, then put together for the last time (I hope....)
Thanks for the update! I live vicariously these days following everyone else's progress. One good thing about selling the house and moving is that I'll be able to find and organize all the truck parts during my relocation!
The boxing plates look nice, like the hole diameter you went with and the spacing, definately spruces up the finished look to the front end!:cool:
Knocked out a bracket for the single fog light today.
Attachment 64860
Clipped the heads off of a pair of 10-32 bolts and sharpened them for transfer screws, to hit the blind holes in the top of the aluminum bracket that Speedway had for attaching things to roll cages, etc.
Attachment 64861
Attachment 64862
Mounted the light, and not sure that I like the way looks... As I held the light in place I thought I wanted it to align with the plane of the headlights, but now I'm thinking that shorter might be better, putting the fog light out in front of the headlights three or four inches...:confused::(
Attachment 64863
I'll leave it alone and look at it for a few days as I'm doing other stuff and see if it grows on me, or jumps into the scrap box. ;)
Attachment 64864
Roger, great work on the frame finishing touches. On the fog light, I think it looks ok there. Maybe coming off the LH frame horn will give you a more open look to the grill?
I vote to just move the lamp across so that the grille edge runs down the centre of the light sort of, you know what I mean. I do like the finish of your bracket for the lamp and would look really cool chrome covered.
JMHO Roger, a bigger fog lite would help a bunch
As Little Red Riding Hood said "My what great big Headlights you have!" And then took another look - "That is a tiny tiny fog lamp, guess it is a guy thing."
(Man I hope you read this with a smile.)