Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree812Likes

Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 35 of 73 FirstFirst ... 25 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 45 ... LastLast
Results 511 to 525 of 1084
  1. #511
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    10,989

    OK, to re-open the idea another ChemE buddy came back to me this morning and he agreed that if you use a tinning flux that gets into the rolled joint, then tin the seam and lead over it the base metal should corrode only slightly because once the loosely bonded oxygen is used up in the flux there's no more free oxygen to feed corrosion. I think that you'll be fine tinning your joint, then leading it closed which will encase any remaining acids. In fact, I think that the heat from leading the joint will quickly cook out the joint, eliminating future corrosion from consideration. Just my $0.02.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  2. #512
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    727

    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Tig welder would work great for this seam it seems.
    I just bought one but my talent does match up to the task yet.

  3. #513
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    727

    Here's a little bit more work done. I had welded in a new cab corner and of course things are not perfect so I leaded in to fill some of the low spot. I don't want to bondo thicker than 1/16 if I can help it.


    With roof seam still in question I welded up a mockup seam of the same shape/size and applied the seam sealer to see what it would look like, this is a sanded finish.
    Last edited by Navy7797; 05-19-2014 at 06:20 PM.

  4. #514
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,606

    From the picture it appears the seam sealer will work nicely..

  5. #515
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Tig welder would work great for this seam it seems.
    TIG does work nice, but a MIG will do just fine for filling a seam. Once it's welded (properly)there is no chance of the seam opening up and showing a line in the paint---yes, they will do that when filled, even with lead!!!! Some good prep time cleaning the seam out, and patience in welding IMO will yield the best results....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  6. #516
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,778

    Took a a week working on the F1 Ford's roof seam with the mig, worst part was grinding my sloppy welds, but it is rock solid two or three years later now!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  7. #517
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    727

    Its been awhile since my last post and that's because I haven't got much done, just welding and grinding on the cab. I had to add some lips to the toe board section trans cover so I have enough to bolt through. I also cut out my instrument panel for my gauges and speedo.
    The roof seam is still not 100% decided on what course of action I'll take. Here's pic's .


  8. #518
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,606

    Hi Navy, this is one of those periods in a build where it sometimes feels like nothing is moving forward... it's just the hours that get consumed and nothing can be substituted for that labor.. It's still looking good, who's floor panels??? And is that a 40 ford instrument cluster?

  9. #519
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    727

    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Hi Navy, this is one of those periods in a build where it sometimes feels like nothing is moving forward... it's just the hours that get consumed and nothing can be substituted for that labor.. It's still looking good, who's floor panels??? And is that a 40 ford instrument cluster?
    The floor panels are Bob Drakes, good thickness to them with well defined bends, toe boards are from .060 flat sheet. The instrument panel is an original that I milled the center out to get max clearance for gauge viewing. A .100 aluminum sheet was than cut to fit. There's going to be more to it than that when its done, pictures will explain it better than I can attempt to describe the finished panel .
    34_40 likes this.

  10. #520
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    727

    Got a little painting done on the truck, well really the the tranny. Used SPI Black epoxy primer and that will be all for the tranny.

    Bought 2 new/used doors for the truck this weekend and they make no difference in the fit to cab clearance issues . So as far as the doors go I'll just be modifying the door edges a bit.
    Last edited by Navy7797; 07-28-2014 at 06:57 PM.

  11. #521
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    7,264
    Blog Entries
    1

    Nice trans. Sorry to hear the doors don't help ya. At least they shouldn't be hard to sell.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  12. #522
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    727

    Just a few pic's of some door repair experimentation.



  13. #523
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,778

    Looks real good!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  14. #524
    cffisher's Avatar
    cffisher is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Constantine
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 chevy 2 dr wagon
    Posts
    9,476

    Are you going to be able to flatten out your metal to match the door thickness? Maybe just cut 2 the right shape and weld them on?
    Charlie
    Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
    W8AMR
    http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
    Christian in training

  15. #525
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    7,264
    Blog Entries
    1

    That looks better already Navy!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

Reply To Thread
Page 35 of 73 FirstFirst ... 25 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 45 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink