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01-30-2012 04:21 PM #91
Chicken legs If you look up the strength of your threaded rod you will most likely find it has as much or more tensile strength than some bolts the cheap American Made (plane steel) 55,000 to 70,000 psi. just trying to save you some $$$. .....B7 4140 steel about a grade 8Last edited by cffisher; 01-30-2012 at 04:25 PM.
Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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01-30-2012 04:26 PM #92
if you have room at the firewall you can reverse the intake manifold on the lt engines
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01-30-2012 08:36 PM #93
I am showing up here lurking on the work you do ..
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02-12-2012 02:28 PM #94
Spend last weekend with some detail work, and planning the intake air plumbing. I mounted the coil, and dressed up the alt&a/c brackets.
I found some 3.5" steel pipe as well as some 4". I cut the 3.5 into some short 22.5 degree angles to start the bend to mimic the pattern I had laid out on cardboard. The 4" was flattened a bit in my vise till it looked like the intake of the motor. I found a 3.5" rubber sleeve at a hardware store to connect my plumbing to the motor. I also had to build a reducer sleeve to mount from the mass air to the air filter. Finally I finished it of with a cross bracket that connects the alt bracket to the a/c bracket and supports the intake plumbing. All this is just 16 or so hours! O yeah, and for a cherry on top I thought Id pick up a serpentine belt. Five belts later and I still dont have a fit. Seems the narrow window in length is between 72 1/8 (that just wont fit) to 72 5/8 (that I can throw on).
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02-14-2012 06:37 AM #95
That should work...I'm sure you saved some coin over my overpriced Street & Performance air cleaner. Just a thought though, if you don't plan on fooling with the power much you might consider taking off that MAF sensor and switch the computer over to speed density like the 93's. I think it looks a lot cleaner (although I didn't realize using the S&P air cleaner would cause issues at the time). I have polished valve covers and a Lokar dipstick now too - not pictured.
Last edited by 35fordcoupe; 02-14-2012 at 06:39 AM.
'35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO
Robert
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11-11-2012 05:23 AM #96
I moved the puter from between the front frame horns to the bottom of the engine compartment on the lower passenger side. Much cleaner and it keeps me from having to build/modify a cover over the frame horns to cover it.
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11-11-2012 05:25 AM #97
Rear frame notched:
Im thinking I'll use bag shocks on the rear.
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11-11-2012 05:29 AM #98
I like the stance on the car so far, but Im concerned with the front being so low in that I dont think the tires will clear the fenders to turn, so its either widen the fenders for such or change out the spindles to bring things up a bit.
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11-11-2012 06:18 AM #99
Some different front wheels with more backspacing and shorter diameter tires would help, too. Other then lack of turn radius, the mockup looks good!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-01-2013 02:33 PM #100
Got a little work done today framing the interior. I bought a Harbor Freight tubing bender and the extra dies for square tubing and opened them up to accept 1". Im using this tubing to replace the wood framing. Works okay if your persistant. Ive found I can bend 1x1 16GA on a 90 over a length of 18". Bending 90 into a 12" piece is more work than is feasible. I plan to build a jig with a relief to bend the tubing in tight 90's where needed, but thats another day.
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01-31-2013 08:49 AM #101
I'm glad to see you're still at it. The framing all looks great! I agree with Dave on the front tire height and backspacing. I think the front needs a shorter tire for looks anyway although you'll have to be careful not to end up with more tire to fender gap in the front than the back. I would not try to widen the front fenders...I think that would be the most work and hard to make it look right. You could also try a narrower wheel and tire and if all else fails narrowed control arms. I got tubular narrowed control arms with my front end from Heidt's. If I remember right they are 5/8" narrower on either side. right now my car is set up almost as low as the coil overs allow in front with a 3.5" back space and it rubs the fender a hair at full lock, but they're mock up wheels and tires that should be a bit shorter when we get the final ones. Obviously our cars are not exactly the same, but I think you'll get it right!'35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO
Robert
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03-01-2016 05:09 PM #102
good choice I have a Hup with that combo
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03-01-2016 05:27 PM #103
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03-01-2016 05:50 PM #104
I bought this car last year and am working on finishing it now.
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03-01-2016 06:06 PM #105
I just found this car last night on this website. I bought the car from chicken legs a little over a year ago. This is my 5th rod even though I have done a lot I am still a year away form being finished. It is a drivable chassis now and the work goes on.
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Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance