Hey Dave,make sure you bead roll that floor or the raddle(sp) will drive you crazy.Are you going to make it removable??.
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Hey Dave,make sure you bead roll that floor or the raddle(sp) will drive you crazy.Are you going to make it removable??.
I always wondered about that. How come if you are under the front end, and dirt falls of the rear end,.......... It Always manages to land in your eye.........?????????....... Maybe it's just me..........:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Wow Dave, that's REALLY getting down to business! :eek: Great way to start though, with a clean slate. Floor subframe looks great.
Don
Floor will be glued and riveted once it's all cut and fit. Had one of those noisy rattly one's, been gluing them ever since!!!!:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gary
Nope, not just you!!!! Got another 5 pounds of it in the eyes yesterday!:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by dlotraf33
Steve, I'm going to scale all the pieces of the old floor and see what the "net loss" is. The trunk section weighed 30+ pounds all by itself!
Thanks Don. The old floor had been patched up and otherwise brutalized, seemed like the only way to get any structure and have the floor looking decent when it's done. The flat section behind the seat platform will be carpeted so Pepper has a nice place to ride too! Hard for him to dig his claws into the aluminum floor so I'll make the weight concession so my dog can ride!!!!!
Wow Dave .......... that's looking great .......... superb work sir :cool::cool:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Coyote
Thanks much, Coyote! I don't work fast, but I just keep plodding along!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Dave,
Maybe Pepper could make use of a custom make 5 point safety seat belt.;):LOL::LOL:
That's looking great, Dave! You really got down to business on this baby!
Well, got the floor supports almost finished up today. With a good day tomorrow should have the body on the rotissierie and ready for some sanblasting. Really anxious to get going on the build part of this project!!
Dave, what are you going to glue the floor down with? We used 3M panel adhesive in Dans rpu, and when that stuff sets up it REALLY sets up. :D
Don
I use either 3M or Fusor adhesives, both work good. Floor will be aluminum, have to see what's recomended.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Looks really good!! Are you going to use glass doors?
Ken
Dave,
I can't add any value, but it looks great and I enjoy seeing the fab process, and the evolution of the project, especially knowing the planning that goes into the foundation so everything flows together later.
Ken, no glass on this one, it's going to be all metal.
Thanks Rog, it does take some planning to get things started correctly...or if not a lot of re-do time later!!
Finished up the floor supports for the back half and started getting things braced to go on the rotissierie. I did use steel instead of aluminum for the front bend in the footwells. 20ga. adds a lot of strenth and support to the body and floor at the front door jamb, then I used another piece in the middle of the rockers.
Got the body off of the frame today. It's hooked to the rear rotissierie stand, have to get some tubing tomorrow and do some reconfiguring on the front stand. Frame is in good condition other then where the new front pieces were cobbled on. Decided the best course of action is to just cut off the old front, get some rectangular tubing and start over. The welds are really bad on the bottom and on the bottom were so bad that they had been covered with filler and some black paint!!!! The rest of the frame measures up nice and straight so not to big of a deal I guess.
I was surprised how light the frame is, with some well designed crossmembers and a bit of rewelding and gusseting it should be just fine. Next thing is to get the rest of the "extras" cut off the frame and get it sandblasted then start the rebuild on it. Some more work on the body and it should be ready to go there, too.
Looking good, Dave. Smart move using the steel flooring in those areas, the body will need some rigidity to it and that will help a lot.
Don
Wow nice progress Dave. It looks so clean starting fresh like this! Pepper appreciates the carpets too!
Sounds like your progressing nicely Dave, more pics please :)
Lookin' good Dave. 2x on the "More Pics"
Great progress Dave!!!!!!!!!
Nice floor work, Dig gassers:D
What brand of panel adhesive do you guys use?Quote:
been gluing them ever since!!!!
I tried Eastwood's epoxy panel adhesive - but wasn't impressed with the chemical adhesive qualities at all.
Nice looking project for sure. How about 'Yellow Fever'.
But that one may have been overused also???
i have used clear silicon or self prime windshield urethane works very good better then panel ahesive floor can flex and not loose bond if you can deal with white or tan color 3M 5200 will hold it to there and will never come apart
As I mentioned, we used 3M's black panel adhesive to hold the floor down on Dans rpu, then riveted it. The rivets were actually not needed but he wanted that look. We had to buy the special gun that holds two tubes and dispenses the two components equally, but it was pretty straightforward after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by SBC
Don
I usually use 3M, sometimes Fusor. Never have had a bit of problems with either!!!
I was going to take some pictures yesterday, but everything was such a mess in the garage.... Going to do some cleaning today, go get some steel to finish hangin' it on the rotissierie. Must be getting old and lazy, sure is a lot easier working on the car when it can be rotated around instead of crawling around all the frame rails and floor supports!!!
a long run like a floor on a full size car with abit of alum floor i would never use panel ahesive but that just me . you really need some thing that will move abit and is more for acoustical damping alum is hard to get a good bond to were steel to steel bond the panel ahesive may work very good for that and smaller floors . the 5200 will do the job as well or windshield glue and maybe cheaper but is not my money:D
Today I did some work on the front of the frame where the previous owner had cut off the OEM front and installed the rails and straight axle...
Well, the rails he put on were 2" X 4" tubing, 1/4" wall--they went in the junk pile to be replaced with some 11 ga. tubing and 10 ga. gussets. The "new" rails had been stuffed inside the factory frame then a bit of stick welding done. The spring hangers for the front axle were a piece of channel iron, welded to a piece of angle iron, welded to the frame--more scrap pile additions.
The frame itself where it was cut off needs some work, but it isn't anything too serious. Added a couple pics of what was on there, and the other rail with the junk cut off.
Also, a picture of the inner panel on the drivers side in the back seat area. I cut the OEM panel out leaving 1 1/2" of the original panel to glue and rivet the new aluminum panel to. Did the same on the inner wheel well, welded in a piece of 20 ga. to the original opening to glue the new inner wheel wells to. The quarter panels have a bit of rust on the inside but not really too bad for a 54 year old car! No concern, both quarter panels will be replaced anyway.
The other shot is the passengers side door sill area. Used a bit of 20 ga. to add some strength to the area. The rest of the floor will be aluminum.
Hope you guys aren't fed up with my lousy photography and slow rate of getting things done!!!
I wonder why they used 1/4 thick ??? Oh well at least its going to get done properly now, keep the pics coming Dave, watching with interest :cool:
[QUOTE=roadster32;421399]I wonder why they used 1/4 thick ???
The extra weight helped keep the front end down on hard launches. :eek::LOL:
Dave, no fear about your "lousy" pictures, they are actually very good and we await each update. :)
Don
[QUOTE=Itoldyouso;421401]Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
With the brackets and other stuff on them, 25 pounds each, plus the crossmember in the front was 1/4" too.....hmmmm. mid 60's launch control??:LOL::LOL:
All the cars in the 50's and 60's are tanks by todays standards!:lol:
Yes but some of those tank could darn near flyQuote:
Originally Posted by stovens
From talking with guys who have or had a '57 Chevy and some research I've done on the 'net, the car was around 3300 pounds when built. Just from eliminating some of the sheet metal and restructuring a few things, the net loss so far is over 300 pounds. I'm working to eliminate another 500 pounds to get the dry weight for the car at 2500 without sacrificing any of the structural integrity of the car. Takes some planning and fabricating, but lowering the weight is worth it! Really getting to be a fun project, too!
Good thing you're slim and trim, Dave. That will help your ET's. :LOL::LOL:
Don
Dave, if you can get a 57 Chevy down to 2500 lbs, that's a heck of a feat all in it's own! This is really cool, keep it comin.
I'm working at it!!!! Not sure I'll get there, but I'm going to give it one heck of a try! Lighter is faster!Quote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
Got both quarters cut off the car and began modifying the tail fins. Always thought the 57's had too small of tailights, and where the base of the tailfins widen out to accomodate the lights it always remided me of a girl with a really great body, then fat hips!!!! Here's some pics of my solution.
Very neat work dave, I'm really looking forward seeing the final outcome on the rear quarter and tail light.
Thats looking slick Dave, keep them pics coming dude