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nice to see your project still rolling. I was all hot to get started on mine and ran into a few road blocks with motor trans. combos and my project hasnt been touched for a few months now. keep it rolling !!! I got a nice dodge big block and 727 in Portland, OR for you.
I'm enjoying watching your build, it shows a lot of work for sure!!
Brian
Not much to update. Frame rails cut out. Ridgid chop saw working great
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That new frame should get it nice and low, Matt. :)
Don
yep.. ground clearence at the rockers should be around 7"... Also the rear frame rails at 4' will actually allow for a rear suspension. and a 4' bed will look more proportional to the cab
how long does it take to make a cut. I have tried to different steel saws and they dont work at all, but I like the idea of straight true cuts. maybe I just havent found the right saw or blade? where did you get your setup?
The saw is a Model R4141 Ridgid chop saw from Home Depot. the blade is a DeWalt general purpose cutting. 1/8" thick 14" chop saw blade. It cuts ok but slow because of the thick blade. Thinner blades have a higher chance of flexing
Welded the rails on the Jig today. Yellow rustoleum held with very little burning.
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Now, I just gotta wait for the Ford dealer to get the front clip cut out. went by there and there shuffling there junkers around a bit
Looking good Matt..:)
Hopefully I'll be able to get an engine/ trans next week.. Was going to go on weds but we had snow/ cold.
Engine/ trans is here. '75 Lincoln 460/C6 trans. smog era, but it's in very promising shape. antifreeze was green, had a very recent oil change and bright red ATF. the hoses were probably less than a year old. gave $400 for everything including the radiator ( bought for test run ) at the junkyard I go to. The car had a 2010 inspection sticker, so it sat for less than 2 years figuring it was last inspected in 2009. looked to be an honest 50k on the car and the odo showed that Only good big block with a 2wd trans in the yard.. I have the oil cap, but It got pulled out with the chain and doesn't fit right anymore. just 1 of those smog caps anyway, that hooks into the air cleaner.. I think I'll sell the power by Ford valve covers and get some offenhauser finned 1's...
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Delayed update...
Suspension Donor truck has arrived just intime for my week off from work.. Cant save this 1. Cab is nice and the frame is straight, but it's about done, and has had some parts removed arleady
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Friend needs the leaf springs so first thing I did was pull the bed- alone.
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My Moms Toyota has a rotting bed floor, and the bed floors are a close enough match to use for patches. So away that went too
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Then, to make the rest fit in the bed of my K1500
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I will save the part around the gas door, as I will make that a swing out cup holder in the dash, as well as a little storage for reg card or whatnot. I just have to cut it out
after the bed was cut apart, I cut away all the sheetmetal off the front of cab. made it lighter, and I felt like it. testing out sawsall blade brands/ lines.. Lenox Gold FTW.. After some consideration, I decided that I would use more of the frame than I planned
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Then prepped the cab for removal.. no pics but, I pulled out the front body mount bolts, and then gave up and cut the rear mounts. That was faster..
Cab was just a bit too big for the 2 ton hoist with the ratchet straps ( yes, I know that's not what there for ). got it off to the side and rolled it.. if the hoist had another 6" in the ram to clear the frame, I would have avoided that
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Rolled it back over for a big THUD.. straps still connected. This setup did lift the cab evenly and the hoist was stable with the load
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Then it looked like this
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Pulled the engine/ trans. which was super easy. sawsall'd the 2 peice driveshaft, exhaust and clipped some wires that were still hanging.. I didn't buy the truck for parts, only the frame, so the sawsall and bolt cutters saved a lot of time
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Next, the gas tank had to go.. Again, cut out all of the offending crossmembers .. that section of the frame, with the exception of bumper, rear end and leaf springs is going for scrap anyway.
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Then I needed to size the frame for my grandfathers 8x10 garden trailer to take it where the project is. I needed less, but without measurements, gave myself lots of extra. Carrier bearing xmember remains only for support
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Ready for a road trip. Not very far, about 4 miles on back roads
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Next to the cab
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After cutting the cab out for the wider frame, I set it on the frame.. I will need to position the body center and find the best location front to back, had to leave some clerence on this 1.
Camber is horredus because there is just about no weight on the suspension. This cab is super light
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Cab is tipped back because front is resting on a higher section of frame, inch or so. I will correct this with higher rear body mounting.
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No pics, but after some careful measurements, I re trimmed the frame. Then measured and cut the rails I had built prior into a back half for this truck.. Yes it is tall. I want a 30" tire level at ride height, which is a lot lower than it is now with unloaded suspension and shocks that are blown.. I have coil overs and adjustable mounts that have +-5" of adjustability
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Paralell 4 bar Rear suspension is next, will be mounted on a '00 3.73 8.8" Explorer axle, replacing the ZR2 rear I had for it.. I have actually added a few crossmembers in the rear, but no pics..
Due to budget restrictions, this has turned into more of what will be just a fun truck, but it still needs to be safe. That's where the Ranger front and Explorer rear comes in. Factory engineered suspension and 4 wheel disc brakes... The Ranger suspension doesn't look 'right', But it's got to do for my first build.. I don't think it'll turn out that bad.
Very resourceful, Matt! I think the weight of the 460 will correct your tire leaning problems.
Hopefully I will be able to use the factory springs that are there. When the Ranger cab was removed, the suspension weight just about completly unloaded. The 2.3x5spd I don't think weighs 500lbs and the suspension really didn't unload much when I pulled it.. The 460 might actually correct the lack of weight it now has, hopefully it stays allignable. If not, I'll contact Eaton spring and get 2 custom springs
A lot of cutting Matt! But it's getting there,Brian
Good choice of motor......one advice.....change the retarded timing chain......and if you can....change the cam to a Comp Cam 256 0r Summit racing 262.....itls breath a whole lot better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt167
This is mine after some work. Mine came out of a 72 Lincoln Mark IV
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The early timing set is in the plans for it, as well as a mild cam
Yep. There were times when my sawsall was hot to the touch. It's only an 8.5A Skil, but it does the job just fine.. Still more to do so I can load it up and take it to the scrap yardQuote:
Originally Posted by Oldmanb
Lookin pretty cool......what color are ya gonna paint it? or ya gonna leave it bare metal?
AMC Big Bad Green, it was used on special Big Bad optioned Javelins and AMX's in 1969 and 1970. I will flatten it out to a semi gloss. I don't have the metal working skills to get it good enough for gloss
http://www.coloradoamx.com/sitebuild...90-645x484.jpg
Just ordered some Jegster 41013 adjustable ladder bars with expediated shipping, so I can get this on 4 wheels probably by thursday, with the coil overs I have
Motor mounts are built, decided to build them so I can mock the engine/ trans in and finish the firewall notch and cab floor. I'll just deal with the engine later
The engine mounts are correct for a 1975 Ford Elite, but most any full size '73-'79 w/ 460 will have the same mounts. The lower mounts that will bolt to the frame are 1974 Plymouth Barracuda v8 mount top plates ( seperated from vulcanized rubber ). This configuration has the engine at a 1.5" setback. the pipe nipple just acts as a bushing and is very close in diamater, the allthread will be replaced with grade 8 machine bolts
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Well, digging this thread from the dark ages... I'm either going to sell what I got or I'm going to re- arrange some stuff and turn it into a doodle bug. I don't have title for it, or time to obtain one ( legally ), and it's just sat since last post... Thinking 300 Ford I6 along with the T-18 trans that I have. divorced T-case to gain a high and low. Solid mount rear axle and eliminate front suspension. Add in 5.70 gears, split brakes, and some Ag lug tread tires. Make something strong enough that it can pull a 3PH implement, or operate a hydraulic slider to load a 5x5 round bale into the bed section..
Going to need a tractor in the near future, and I need to clean up and clean out what I have, so while this 'UTV' won't handle much of what a 30-40hp tractor will handle, it will be able to handle compact tractor sized loads, and have the extra ability as a grounds vehicle
Was thinking of running a MB 5cyl turbo diesel, but the $500 cost for the adapter plate is prohibitive.
Just a cool project, any updated pictures ?
thru a series of life changing events and a lot of wasted time on other ventures, I am back into hotrodding this. Conservatively it won't have the monster 460 but it will have a mild 350 hooked to the T-18 using some parts that I have, a couple parts from Novak and a parts store clutch assembly.. It's getting built out of the modern day junkyard using as little aftermarket as possible
I've got a couple parts coming in the mail, going to junkyard on saturday for whatever looks good to use. I'm thinking the track bar from an S10 ZR2 will make the perfect panhard bar once shortened since they cost about $20 if I can find one
Good luck with it man!
Wow, haven't seen you around in quite some time! Good to see you back here and reviving the build too!
Yup its been a while.. Feels good to be back tho.