Thread: Followed Me Home, '33 Build

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Originally Posted by rspears

To my knowledge there's no silicone around.

.........

Does your clothes dryer vent anywhere near the shop, or does the normal airflow around the house where it vents carry toward the shop?

Roger - that chassis really looks nice (even if it isn't powder coat). I hope you threw that HF purple POS away. Mine lasted about long enough to spray a bit of epoxy primer and turn some parts of my garage gray from overspray. Then I bought an Iwata......... A $20 POS to a $450 gun in one easy step - well really two. My primer gun is a Finishline 3, with a nice Sharpe in between that ended up surplus (Mike - have you tried it yet?)

Originally Posted by IC2

Roger - that chassis really looks nice (even if it isn't powder coat). My primer gun is a Finishline 3, with a nice Sharpe in between that ended up surplus (Mike - have you tried it yet?)

Nope, not yet. I hope to in September / October.
Roger, the frame is lookin' awesome!

Originally Posted by 34_40

Nope, not yet. I hope to in September / October.
Roger, the frame is lookin' awesome!

34_40 - Thanks! It looks better tonight - I overcame my fears and wet sanded it with 1500, then hit it with a variable speed buffer, white foam pad w/white compound, then blue foam pad with the blue finishing compound. The paint was only about 24 hours old, so the polishing process went quick. I'll post a couple of shots when I have it back on wheels with the engine in place.

Dave,
I understand the WD40 issue, but my comment was that I did not do a thorough job of cleaning the frame and parts, knowing that I had soaked them with WD40 nine months ago - a necessary step given my work environment, and a very common situation with OEM parts. IDIDIT points out that their bare columns are sprayed with WD40 to prevent corrosion prior to painting, and that the buyer needs to properly clean the column before painting. I should have soaked the frame with thinner several times, flipping it over to coat all sides, and let it drip. Next time....

My "spray area" is a segregated 10x30 area in a 30x60 barn, and to physically remove every product from the barn that may have bad stuff in it for paint is not pracitcal. What is practical for me is to remember all of this stuff for next time, and to take extra measures to clean, clean, clean before thinking about spraying. There is nothing in my spray area but the products associated with the paint process.

Bob,
That Camry sounds like it had "Ming" or a similar product on the paint. Ming finish was very popular in the midwest back in the 70's - some polymer coating that chemically bound to the paint. I heard that body shops had no choice but to paint panels on Ming cars, first stripping them to bare metal and no blending across panel breaks.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Does your clothes dryer vent anywhere near the shop, or does the normal airflow around the house where it vents carry toward the shop?

Bob,
That is good, out of the box thinking, but should not be an issue here. The shop is 150' from the end of the house and the dryer vent is around back.

I did lots of "no-no's" due to lack of experience - I soaked the frame in WD40 to prevent surface rust in the unheated barn and before painting I should have loaded my spray gun with lacquer thinner and flooded the chassis and parts several times to wash it away, vs hand wiping with blue paper towels wet with thinner several times; I used cloth rags that had been dried with fabric softener sheets at one point (just before fisheyes); I added Dawn "Plus" in my wash water once (just before fisheyes); I had a wasp invasion one afternoon while sanding, and sprayed them airborn with insectiside (has parafins to stick to the critters); and my wax & grease remover approach was to wet a rag, wipe wet & wipe dry vs putting the liquid in a spray bottle, wetting the surface and then drying with a clean paper cloth. What is boggling is that my first coats of primer were fine, then all of a sudden I got the evil eye. In chasing potential problems and eliminating things by re-cleaning, changing approach, new hose, etc, time past and primer cured more. Time may have been the solution, but having a good SATA gun for a day was a big, big improvement in my control. Of course, it may have been that the Fisheye Spirit got tired of my shop, and rode the wind to another place.... or it may be resting, waiting for me to get the gun out again, too.

Sometimes the devil is involved!

I'll give the short version of my tale of woe. Nearly two decades ago a pretty new car was brought to the shop for a minor repair and panel refinish. The first refinish came off in sheets. This caused us to have to expand our paint field (for color match reasons, a tough to match, light goldish color). This happened again and again to where my painter was at wits end, and we got my supplier involved and they had two of their expert painters redo it....twice more! Long story short, we completely repainted that car three times before it finally stuck, and to this day don't know what the real problem was. My suspicion was the "clear coat protectant" that the dealers typically sold for $300 or so. But the dealer was a referral source so we did lots of cars that they treated. We used every precleaning process known at the time. No other job in the shop shot with the same materials, same painter, same equipment, same environment, yada yada, had this kind of failure. In the end we named it the "Camry from Hell" and were extremely happy to see it go away.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Sometimes the devil is involved!

I'll give the short version of my tale of whoa. Nearly two decades ago a pretty new car was brought to the shop for a minor repair and panel refinish. The first refinish came off in sheets. This caused us to have to expand our paint field (for color match reasons, a tough to match, light goldish color). This happened again and again to where my painter was at wits end, and we got my supplier involved and they had two of their expert painters redo it....twice more! Long story short, we completely repainted that car three times before it finally stuck, and to this day don't know what the real problem was. My suspicion was the "clear coat protectant" that the dealers typically sold for $300 or so. But the dealer was a referral source so we did lots of cars that they treated. We used every precleaning process known at the time. No other job in the shop shot with the same materials, same painter, same equipment, same environment, yada yada, had this kind of failure. In the end we named it the "Camry from Hell" and were extremely happy to see it go away.

Just goes to show you no matter how bad we think it is somebody has it or has had it worse then us.

Roger - run, do not walk, but get that WD-40 and any other aerosol lubricant out of your painting area. While WD-40's MSDS doesn't list silicone, it does say "proprietary ingredients"


Aliphatic Petroleum Distillates 64742-47-8
64742-88-7
45-50%

Petroleum Base Oil 64742-58-1
64742-53-6
64742-56-9
64742-65-0
30-35%

Non-Hazardous Ingredients Proprietary <10%

Surfactant Proprietary <2%

Carbon Dioxide 124-38-9 2-3%

Bolding is mine