:LOL::LOL::LOL: The bottle is full and unopened....
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That bottle is unopened :LOL:
Seriously, I picked up a Finex (by Sharpe) FX3000 gun yesterday (could not justify Sata or Iwata cost) and shot a bunch of cast pieces (brake calipers, caliper mounts, bolt heads and nuts, etc) and axle flanges that I had overlooked - a coat of epoxy primer, a coat of base single stage black and a coat of 50/50 black and clear. Before priming I soaked everything liberally with lacquer thinner from a spray bottle, wiped dry and blew with air. The new gun worked great with a definite difference in atomization. Since these were not "critical" parts I just hung them outside on a 2x4 supported by ladders so I was not in the same environment - did not want to take time to segregate the shop, and not overly concerned with a bit of dust or a bug or two. Also, I put a gun mounted regulator on the new gun, to be sure of the actual pressure at the gun - I may have been losing 5 or 10psi before and not realized it. One of these days I will mount the regulator on the HF "Pro" gun, mix up some primer and try it again on a test panel to see if that was the problem. For now, it is assembly time!!
I found that with HVLP, the only way to get a good result was to know the exact pressure, so I had a gun regulatore even on my primer gun (also HVLP). I had to have the regulator. I couldn't remember enough from my college fruids (I had a Chinese prof) class to calculate it. :p
This is what worked for me. This first photo is a fairly good gauge 0-100 rather then the usual 0-160 $5 POS that is usually supplied with a gun regulator. It's also non restrictive.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...egulator11.jpg
This second photo is my actual regulator and it's on the air dryer outlet.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...0429057-11.jpg
These are my dryers. The photos are 'early' in my painting and were taken before I had added the regulator.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...filtration.jpg
My reasoning for these devices is that I can regulate the air to the gun before the hose, then check the PSIG at the gun. I can then remove the gauge, leaving myself at least another foot of floor clearance without that poor ball valve and gauge arrangement (figured with the hose curl and possibly a last chance filter as taking that foot) plus maintaining gun balance
Like I said, it did work just fine for me:D
Good setup Dave!
OK, this is not one of those scrubbed shop shots, but here's the status as of about 10am this morning. I haven't added fluid to the differential, tranny, engine or master cylinders yet, but everything is buttoned up and tight.
Looks really great rspears! Keep up the good work. don Jr.:)
NICE! Very Very Nice! Good Job!
Sweet looking! Love the look of the megaphones.....
David
Roger,
Great work. Times like this make you feel like you're making progress, don't they? Looking at this makes me think about how I would do it if I started all over again.
BTW, I'm waiting to see if Kansas charges you more to license it than you paid to build it. ;)
Scary thought with taxes. I had set aside a couple thousand bucks for NY taxes and fees - all they nailed me for was $119 plus a two year license fee and $10 for the actual plates for a total of $179. Now I have enough left over to pay for the new seats I need for knee to chin clearance(they're coming Friday)
Roger, congratulations, it looks great!! You've come a long way since our first conversations after reading the Street Rod Builder articles. :)
Mike