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Thread: Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T
          
   
   

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  1. #436
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    Were your ears burning a couple of nights ago? I was telling Dan you bought an English Wheel and that you had used it to bend up your hood. He was amazed that you were able to do that because of the learning curve. I told him you are full of surprises! You are a very crafty guy.

    Hood looks better and better all the time.

    Don

  2. #437
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Thanks, Don. I'm not sure how crafty I am; it was probably beginner's luck. I am having fun playing with that thing, though. You guys should get one, but wait until Dan gets his car on the road. If you get one now he'll be wanting to start over again so he can make his own body!

    The good news is my old friend up in Indiana has agreed to do my louvers! I'll be sending these hood sides off to him soon.

    The bad news is the cost of paint... I bought 3 quarts of DuPont Chromabase to paint my chassis & wheels - $373.01 !!! I haven't bought the catalyst and clearcoat yet...
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  3. #438
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Wow, that is a hard hit pricewise! It's amazing how much money we all put into incidentals that we never plan on when building a car. I think we have a fortune in just grinding discs and those Norton rice cake thingies.

    I'm anxious to see your hood all louvered..........bet you are too.


    Yep, you are right about keeping Dan away from any distractions. Just the other day he was asking how hard it would be to install a/c in the roadster so it wouldn't be visible. I told him his top would be good enough.
    Don

  4. #439
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Of course I had to choose the most expensive color on the chart - RED! Anything with red pigment is more expensive... Too bad most of it won't show when the car is finished! I expected a hard hit (paint is a petroleum product), but it was worse than expected.

    Yes, the louvers should add a nice finishing touch to the front end. I am having just the sides louvered and leaving the top alone.

    Yeah, we've got to keep that boy focused. Tell him A/C is for pussies... No, that's not right; I wish I had A/C in my coupe... Uhh, tell him he can't hide the A/C unless he puts the ugly old master cylinder out on the firewall so it won't be in the way under the cowl. That should do it! Tell him he can put A/C in the '49. Ooh! Tell him there's been a change in plans and he needs to have the RPU done in time for the Daytona Dream Cruise in October. Yeah, then he won't have time to mess with A/C right now...

    Seriously, if you look up the gallery of NVRRDUNN, he is putting A/C under the cowl of his '31 coupe. Maybe you shouldn't show that to Dan right now though...
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  5. #440
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    Yup, J. R. is a VERY crafty guy, to be sure, from what I observed on my short visit this spring! Great work too. I am taking lessons Jim. Just the other day I was ready to order some motor mounts from a catalog for my inline 6. Then, just as I punched the computer button, I thought, J. Robinson wouldn't do that, he'd BUILD them. So-----------three or four hours later I had a set. I hope they work ok. I made the frame side from 2 x 3 box tube fancied up a little. The motor side has a triangular plate with bolt holes and a piece of 2" square tube cut on a long taper and trimmed some on the end. And donut type cushion mounts from Speedway! I feel really really good about it too. Now for my Nephew welder again! Thanks for the inspiration, Jim, Don, Dan, and lots of others too. I love this site and these build threads. Whole education on hot rod builds. Perley

  6. #441
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Hi Perley. Hadn't heard from you in a while. I was beginning to wonder if you were sick or something. Anyway, I'm flattered that you find me to be an inspiration. It makes you feel good when you try something you haven't done before and it works, doesn't it? I guess that's why I like fabrication. Half the stuff I do I've never done before... at least not the same way...

    OK, I've put this off almost until the last minute, but I've got to get it done sooner or later... It's time to put the reinforcement in the body. I dread doing fiberglass work because it's itchy; it's not difficult, just itchy, but it has to be done.

    The first part isn't bad. I began by making poster board patterns for the wood reinforcement pieces. The next step was to duplicate the patterns in wood. I cheated a little bit here; instead of doing all this at home with hand tools, I utilized the shop at school to make these pieces. I could have done it all at home with a skill saw, jig saw, and a body grinder, but with a complete school shop at my access, why not speed up the process? First, I planed some 2 x 4 material down to 1 5/16" thick to match the depth of the lip around the top of the body. Next, I used the miter saw and band saw to cut the pieces to shape.

    The vertical pieces in the body needed to be tapered in thickness from the 1 5/16" thickness at the top to 3/4" thickness at the bottom, so I used the jointer to do that. Finally, I used the radial arm saw, with the blade raised to about 3/32" above the table, to put kerf cuts across the pieces so they could be bent to fit inside the body. The sharper a piece needs to bend, the more kerf cuts are necessary. I ended up making the front verticals twice. I initially made the kerf cuts so they were parallel to the bottom of each piece. When I tried to fit the pieces in the body I discovered that they needed the cuts made the opposite direction so that the wood could twist as it conformed to the body.

    Once everything was trimmed to fit, I glued the wood into the body. Having worked as both a body man and a wood shop teacher, it was inevitable that I would eventually combine the two; I discovered some years ago that ordinary automotive body filler is both and excellent wood filler and a very strong adhesive. I used auto body filler to glue the wood reinforcement into the body. I simply mixed the stuff up, slathered it on the back of the wood pieces about 1/4" thick, and then clamped the pieces in place. The body filler fills up any void between the wood and the body and the excess oozes out the sides. I scraped the excess off with my bondo spreader and packed it into the crevices between the wood and the bars inside the body. In 15 or 20 minutes the clamps can be removed and move on to the next piece.

    Finally, all the wood was finalized and further strengthened with the application of a layer of fiberglass mat and polyester resin. This is the part I dislike (Did I say it's itchy?); I'm glad it's done! After it's cured completely I will have to knock any lumps, etc. off with a grinder. That process can also be itchy and I will do that outdoors, but the worst is over.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  7. #442
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    I'm itching just watching you do it. I'm like you, I hate fiberglassing.

    Looks good though Jim. You really are getting closer and closer to that big day. When do you think the car will be on the road?

    Don

  8. #443
    OFT
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    Looking good, (I'm one of the lucky ones-fiberglassing does not itch). Wish I'd known your body filler trick when I glassed my '23 track T. That is a whole lot easier looking than mat-resin and trying to put in place by yourself.

    Keep up the good work and the tidbits of knowledge flowing.

    Earl

  9. #444
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    I even heard of the Don itch and talk about wearing panty hose , I'll stick to all steel , the grinding dust washes off . Jim this Track is moving fast , doesn't take you long either when you put your mind to it .

  10. #445
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    I think the build is great and I appreciate you taking the time to document it. I have one concern though. It appears that your head would be dangerously close to the roll bar. It hurts bad enough to hit a padded rollbar with a helmet on, without one would really hurt. Of course my concern may be completely unjustified since I don't know what kind of seat or restraint system you plan on using.

    I'm looking forward to the rest of your build. Thanks.
    Bill

  11. #446
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Don - I'm shooting for the Turkey Run, but there's still an awful lot to be done. Even if I overcme all the mechanical stuff, I've still got to go through the hell of applying for a title...

    Earl - You're lucky! All I have to do is walk past someone working with fiberglass and I'll itch for hours!

    Bobby - I've gotta get this thing done; I already have ideas for the next one!

    Bill - Yes, a roll bar can give you a nasty bump on the head (speaking from experience), but if your head meets the pavement that's even worse... Actually, this roll bar is a bit of a compromise. I need it to complete the track roadster theme, but I also want it to be functional. At the same time, I need to keep it at a height where I can put a top on this car for long trips, soooo.... It clears my head by about an inch.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  12. #447
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    I just happened to think about you saying that your head would be one inch away from the roll bar and I thought I'd make that one inch of foam padding. Well, that wouldn't look very good and I don't really know how effective it would be. Then it came to me. Why not suspend a headrest from your roll bar like some race cars have. Then you wouldn't have to worry about your head making contact with the bar behind you.

    Sorry, that's the last thing I'll say about the roll bar. Sometimes I get hung up on these things.

  13. #448
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    That's OK Bill. I often obsess about things like this... Actually, the roll bar is slightly behind me as well as being about an inch higher than the top of my head, so I may not be as likely to bump into it as I would if it was directly overhead. The headrest idea has merit and I may consider it at some point. Interestingly, most of the real track roadsters of the post-war era had very low roll bars that usually only reached to about the top of the driver's shoulders!

    Being an old stock car racer and having eaten concrete retaining walls on numerous occasions, I am a firm believer in seat belts and wear mine faithfully. My coupe has the seat belts/harnesses out of a '95 Hyundai Elantra. This car will be equipped with belts also to keep me down in the seat. I have included bracketry on the roll cage to accommodate full racing harnesses if I decide to use them. At the very least, it will have lap belts.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  14. #449
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The inside of the body looks great!

    Me too on the belts....I've crashed with them and without them....Conclusion is that I would much rather have them on!!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  15. #450
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    Wow!!

     



    Mr. Robinson,

    Just took the last couple of evenings reading through all 30 pages of your build thread....Dear God, but your work is impressive and inspirational.

    This thread was actually what inspired me to join this forum... I found it through a link from another site, but couldn't see the pictures just by lurking! There's a whole lotta good info (and helpful folks) on this site-love it!

    Regards,
    Shea

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