Thread: 30w verses 50w

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I've been using Pennzoil 10w-30 in my 289 and a friend recommended that I start using Valvoline Racing Oil with zinc in a 50w. I picked up 6 qts but I wanted to see what y'all thought before I switched over. I ?think? I can swap it for 30w if I need to so hopefully it wouldn't be wasted money.

Em

I wouldn't run straight 50W for anything but racing, but that's just my opinion. In Valvoline's Racing Oil I'd go with their VR1 10W30 - Amazon.com: Valvoline (VV205-6PK) VR1 SAE 10W-30 Racing Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Case of 6): Automotive You get the viscosity of 10W on startup, when the oil is cold for good flow and lubrication, and as it warms the viscosity becomes 30W.

Agree 50W for the track, my personal favorite is Castrol oil 10W40.

Thanks Roger, it is VR-1 and since I bought it at O'Reilly's I'm gonna see if they will swap my 6qt case for 30w VR-1.

What about Lucas Oil Stabilizer, any comments?

Em

Originally Posted by MelloYello

Thanks Roger, it is VR-1 and since I bought it at O'Reilly's I'm gonna see if they will swap my 6qt case for 30w VR-1.

What about Lucas Oil Stabilizer, any comments?

Em

Not necessary unless the engine is shot and you're trying to dump it and I wouldn't run straight weight oil, 10W30/40 in your oil of choice.

Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy Maybe posted before but it is great(long) reading!! Pete

Originally Posted by MelloYello

Thanks Roger, it is VR-1 and since I bought it at O'Reilly's I'm gonna see if they will swap my 6qt case for 30w VR-1.

What about Lucas Oil Stabilizer, any comments?

Em

Em, one thing I can add is if your engine has a flat tappet cam, you might want to get a zinc additive to help keep the lobes on the cam and lifters from tearing themselves up. Most if not all oils don't have the zinc anymore and a lot of flat tappet cam failures have popped up because of this.

O'Reilley's told me that the Valvoline VR-1 had zinc but I'll be sure and ask again when I swap it for 30w and I do have flat tappets so thanks Guys you've been a great help. I probably shoulda asked Y'all first but live and learn I guess.

Em

VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)
The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.

• High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
• Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
• Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
• Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
• Available through leading auto parts retailers

Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Racing Motor Oil > VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

Well that's good to know. I'll have to see if they have any diesel compatible.

Em,
If your O'Reilly's doesn't carry the multi-viscosity VR1 they can get it for you. Trade your case of 50W for 10W30 and be done. Straight weight oil is not a good idea, IMO.

As I'm your Uncle I feel compelled to attempt to save some of you embarrassment.

There is no such thing as 30W or 50W...........the specification for winter viscosity grading (what the W represents) stops at 25 grade for crankcase oils.

Unka Bob, thanks for the info and, as far as embarrassment goes, I'm a seasoned Veteran in that department.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

As I'm your Uncle I feel compelled to attempt to save some of you embarrassment.

There is no such thing as 30W or 50W...........the specification for winter viscosity grading (what the W represents) stops at 20 grade for crankcase oils.

Once again, Uncle is correct and I fell into the trap, too... Lots of people toss in the "W" as weight (30 weight, 50 weight) but it's actually a testing temperature reference and in the multi-vis oils the "W" goes with the lower number, i.e., 10W30 is an SAE graded oil that has been tested to prove that it acts as SAE 10 at colder temps, and SAE 30 at 210F (100C). This whole discussion highlights why straight grade oils are not the best choice for street use - they have not been tested at temperatures below the approximate operating temperature of your engine, they don't have the additives to thin them in colder temps, and their viscosity in colder ambients is not verified.

you may be right about W as to MOTOR oils , but how about the lubes that aren't Motor oils, light maybe 140w gear oil?