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I've been using Pennzoil 10w-30 in my 289 and a friend recommended that I start using Valvoline Racing Oil with zinc in a 50w. I picked up 6 qts but I wanted to see what y'all thought before I switched over. I ?think? I can swap it for 30w if I need to so hopefully it wouldn't be wasted money.
Em
I wouldn't run straight 50W for anything but racing, but that's just my opinion. In Valvoline's Racing Oil I'd go with their VR1 10W30 - Amazon.com: Valvoline (VV205-6PK) VR1 SAE 10W-30 Racing Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Case of 6): Automotive You get the viscosity of 10W on startup, when the oil is cold for good flow and lubrication, and as it warms the viscosity becomes 30W.
Agree 50W for the track, my personal favorite is Castrol oil 10W40.
Thanks Roger, it is VR-1 and since I bought it at O'Reilly's I'm gonna see if they will swap my 6qt case for 30w VR-1.
What about Lucas Oil Stabilizer, any comments?
Em
Not necessary unless the engine is shot and you're trying to dump it and I wouldn't run straight weight oil, 10W30/40 in your oil of choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy Maybe posted before but it is great(long) reading!! Pete
Em, one thing I can add is if your engine has a flat tappet cam, you might want to get a zinc additive to help keep the lobes on the cam and lifters from tearing themselves up. Most if not all oils don't have the zinc anymore and a lot of flat tappet cam failures have popped up because of this.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
O'Reilley's told me that the Valvoline VR-1 had zinc but I'll be sure and ask again when I swap it for 30w and I do have flat tappets so thanks Guys you've been a great help. I probably shoulda asked Y'all first but live and learn I guess.
Em
VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)
The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.
• High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
• Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
• Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
• Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
• Available through leading auto parts retailers
Valvoline.com > Products > Motor Oil > Racing Motor Oil > VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)
Well that's good to know. I'll have to see if they have any diesel compatible.
Em,
If your O'Reilly's doesn't carry the multi-viscosity VR1 they can get it for you. Trade your case of 50W for 10W30 and be done. Straight weight oil is not a good idea, IMO.
As I'm your Uncle I feel compelled to attempt to save some of you embarrassment.
There is no such thing as 30W or 50W...........the specification for winter viscosity grading (what the W represents) stops at 25 grade for crankcase oils.
Unka Bob, thanks for the info and, as far as embarrassment goes, I'm a seasoned Veteran in that department. :CRY::CRY::LOL:
:o Once again, Uncle is correct and I fell into the trap, too... :o ;) Lots of people toss in the "W" as weight (30 weight, 50 weight) but it's actually a testing temperature reference and in the multi-vis oils the "W" goes with the lower number, i.e., 10W30 is an SAE graded oil that has been tested to prove that it acts as SAE 10 at colder temps, and SAE 30 at 210F (100C). This whole discussion highlights why straight grade oils are not the best choice for street use - they have not been tested at temperatures below the approximate operating temperature of your engine, they don't have the additives to thin them in colder temps, and their viscosity in colder ambients is not verified.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
you may be right about W as to MOTOR oils , but how about the lubes that aren't Motor oils, light maybe 140w gear oil?
Okay, gear oils...................no such thing as 140W either, that scale only assigns W up to grade 85.
Any auto parts store or oil company has up to and including 140w
I can teach you but I can't learn for you: here are the grading systems as defined.....http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/viscosity.htm
There are some gear oil suppliers that package their products using the "GL" ratings, i.e. GL4, GL5, and some of the house brands may incorrectly state that their gear oil is equivalent to 140W, which shows that whoever approved their label does not understand the testing methods, IMO, and it might even be reason to question the quality of their product.....Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Thanks Bob -----------I hope you know that I was only after grins and giggles!!!!!!!!!!!!!however all those referances are pretty recent(maybe after the advent of syn stuff------------but for as long as I can remember, anytime anyone said 90w, 140w, etc---everybody in the room knew they were talking about how thick it was-------
What I find interesting in todays data papers,etc----is how much they push around the temp standard used for there testing--------seems they just use whatever is convient for their paper--------
Roger--I agree--------however------try talking GL4, GL5,etc and people will think your talking about a new cell phone-talk xxW and everybody will know you mean some kind of oil--------
That is the rub Jerry............colloquialism vs correctness. This is me tilting against windmills, but occasionally I like to interject some accuracy even though reality has given me severe beatings in the past for doing so.
Should I bring up some discussion about the Ford requirement of a 5w-50 grade oil for the Coyote engine?:eek::rolleyes::whacked:
Might be a good idea because there isn't any way we are going to get people to heat there oils before operation or over cooling them with big aux coolers/air-----------those all alum engines are tight during the winter------
Guy across the street from me-starts up, backs out into street and wide open down the block everytime he leaves------from 100* to -30*---------------doesn't listen---after all he is a professional computer geek--
Speaking of windmills-----------does anyone have a paper that shows the temp drop per kilowatt and how it'll effect the local dew point downwind of the windmill field????????? fog, mist, rain, snow???????????
I've been a Mobil 1 guy since the 70's, ok it was partially because I had a Mobil Station and Mobil gave us free synthetic oil for the sprint car. I use their regular synthetic in street stuff, and their racing synthetic in race stuff...... Not sure what they've done about the flat tappet cam issue though??? Gone to rollers and since then I have to admit I don't pay much attention....
OK, O'Reilly's has ordered me some Valvoline VR-1 in a 10(?w?)-30 after some argument when he told me they only made it in 20-50.
Thanks again, Gentlemen,
Em
We've argued with our engineers at work about oil and they don't understand what they are trying to tell you to run. It's crazy.
Not going to further hijack Em's oil thread after this reply, but you'll find that the ambient temp in the immediate area of a wind farm rises about 1C over a decade (all but irrelevant). Those turbine blades are being driven by the wind's kinetic energy and don't add velocity. The effect to ambient is due to increased turbulence, mixing the air from ground level up a couple of hundred feet, much like the fans in orchards and vineyards used to prevent frost damage. Instead of the normal cooling of the earths surface as the sun goes down (radiant loss to the night sky) the mixing negates a little bit of the drop. Now back to the regularly scheduled programming....Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Jerry, I had that paper but my pedicurist borrowed it and left town to who knows where?:CRY:Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Em
That's OK mello----they mailed it to me-----------
Roger, does this only apply to wind farms in the south? :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Ryan-------I think the source of Rogers view of wind farms is flawed act of the blowing wind is turning the blades, not the blades turning and causing the wind to blow----------
My thoughts are because you don't creat or destroy energy with normal means so there fore I assume that after the wind has lost its energy to the turbine fans, there will be less energy in the air so it will be cooler-------also when the wind blows by the rotating fan blades, it hardly gets disturbed so very little if any turbulence is created-------
You guys have left out a portion of the calculus...............all the additional heat generated by the rotting bird carcases on the ground near the machines.
I thought the cooling action of the blades compensated for the heat decay?
But what really worries me, is the addition speed added to the earths rotations caused by these machines and how much older it is making us. Explains why I'm losing energy..
Would someone just please call Al Gore and find out the true skinny? :confused::LOL:
Em
I sent him a letter on this, but I forgot to put a stamp on the envelope..........
Roger, we shouldn't forget that in converting the kinetic energy of the wind to electrical energy, those turbines generate some heat. After all, they aren't friction-free.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears