Thread: Magnets

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Hi Dave, I know this doesn't pertain to your question about the magnets, but I thought I'd go ahead and throw it out here for what it's worth.

If you’re going to the trouble to change the pan, I would strongly suggest that you find an OE pan rather than using an aftermarket one. The customers Fairlane I did a year ago had pan leak problems with chrome pan he had used. After not being able to get the chrome pan to seal, I went ahead and ordered a new aftermarket plain steel painted pan. It leaked worse than the chrome one.

I ended up going to the local wrecking yard and pulling an OE pan which finally cured the leaks. I’ve used aftermarket pans in the past with good luck, even chrome ones. After fighting the last one however, I’m a little leery about using them again.

Originally Posted by Mike P

Hi Dave, I know this doesn't pertain to your question about the magnets, but I thought I'd go ahead and throw it out here for what it's worth.

If you’re going to the trouble to change the pan, I would strongly suggest that you find an OE pan rather than using an aftermarket one. The customers Fairlane I did a year ago had pan leak problems with chrome pan he had used. After not being able to get the chrome pan to seal, I went ahead and ordered a new aftermarket plain steel painted pan. It leaked worse than the chrome one.

I ended up going to the local wrecking yard and pulling an OE pan which finally cured the leaks. I’ve used aftermarket pans in the past with good luck, even chrome ones. After fighting the last one however, I’m a little leery about using them again.

Heres a tip that will solve your chrome pan problems, scuff up the chrome where the gasket sits and glue the gasket in place, It will be fine then, The problem is that the chrome is slippery and as you do up the bolts the gasket slides.
I also use magnets in my engines, costs nothing and can save a lot.

.

Originally Posted by roadster32

Heres a tip that will solve your chrome pan problems, scuff up the chrome where the gasket sits and glue the gasket in place, It will be fine then, The problem is that the chrome is slippery and as you do up the bolts the gasket slides.
I also use magnets in my engines, costs nothing and can save a lot.

.

Steve - that pan rail has been scuffed twice with, I believe, 180 grit almost to the point of taking the chrome off to bare metal. The gaskets were installed with Permatex spray sealer, then tied in place with thread so it wont move then an RTV applied at the seal corners to the bearing cap.

As many cars as I have either worked on or built, this one has leaked the most oils and has take more effort to fix then the rest totaled up, especially the champion of leakers, Ford 'Y' blocks - and that includes way back when I did this part time for a living for years.

For about $50, just going to replace the pan as it was coming off anyhow for other engine pain

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Originally Posted by Mike P

Hi Dave, I know this doesn't pertain to your question about the magnets, but I thought I'd go ahead and throw it out here for what it's worth.

If you’re going to the trouble to change the pan, I would strongly suggest that you find an OE pan rather than using an aftermarket one. The customers Fairlane I did a year ago had pan leak problems with chrome pan he had used. After not being able to get the chrome pan to seal, I went ahead and ordered a new aftermarket plain steel painted pan. It leaked worse than the chrome one.

I ended up going to the local wrecking yard and pulling an OE pan which finally cured the leaks. I’ve used aftermarket pans in the past with good luck, even chrome ones. After fighting the last one however, I’m a little leery about using them again.

Mike - I gave that a thought. Unfortunately Ford stopped using front sump pans (which my car chassis requires) a way long ago. Any OEM examples left in a rust belt salvage yard are either rusted through or will be the first time I get caught in the rain. I purchased a Summit aftermarket replacement which appears to be at least a steel gauge heavier then the leaky Ford Racing chrome version on there now. The rails seem to be straight but can't really tell about the seal fit - and I use one piece gaskets along with the rail supports that came on the crate engine.

Then that pan isn't the primary reason I'm going into the engine bottom end

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