I need to know some things about a 302

Hello, my name is Jerry and I was wanting to know what I need to do with my SBF302. I have a 1989 ford ranger and I was wanting to make a never before seen in piketon ohio truck. I dont want a show truck I just want something I can take through the mud every now and then, sound really good and have a choppy idle. I was told that a comp magnum 280H cam would be the best cam. I planned on getting aluminum heads. I know this is a website for hotrods but I was wanting a little info. on some things I can do to a 302 to have the torque and horsepower to turn at least 36'' tires. Heres what I have:

a 302ci engine that come out of a 1981 thunderbird

a budget of around $1000-$1500

a 4-speed transmission

a transfer case

a bellhousing

a flywheel

I plan on running a 410 gear ratio

...and that pretty much sums it up. Thanks for your time!

Might want to add some to that budget.....$1500 will barely get the aluminum heads.

Dave is right. I play with sbf's and the parts for them are always higher than what the Chevy guys pay............don't know why, they just are.

I would forget the aluminum heads for now, they can be added later. With the plan you have outlined you want to build a torque motor, not necessary a high winder. I would put an RV type grind cam in it, some early, non smog heads, a good dual plane intake and about a 500-600 cfm carb. You might have some money left over, so buy a decent electronic distibutor (actually, the stock Ford electronic ones aren't all that bad) I would also add some headers and a good dual exhaust system with an H or X pipe and some free flowing mufflers.

Don

Since your budget is tight you might want to check out www.hotrodders.com classifieds there is a set of '66 289 Heads freshly surfaced with a fresh valve job,these will increase your compression and give you adjustable rockers all for $135.You need a cam and intake that will produce low and midrange torque check out this combo at www.summitracing.com put part# 09-0001 in search.This cam has increased duration in the exhaust which is a plus on SBF's for improved breathing.

I found a set of pro-comps on ebay for 650 bucks.

A buddy of mine told me to check out some tri y headers, are they any good?
:confused:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hudsonj94

I found a set of pro-comps on ebay for 650 bucks.

---

Haven't heard any good reports on these heads.... Only a suggestion, but price should not be your only criteria in selecting heads....

Tri-y's work good on Windsor's, there again depends on what you buy... A set of cheapies with too small of a tube and collector aren't going to perform well....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Haven't heard any good reports on these heads.... Only a suggestion, but price should not be your only criteria in selecting heads....

Tri-y's work good on Windsor's, there again depends on what you buy... A set of cheapies with too small of a tube and collector aren't going to perform well....

---

The heads I was looking at had:

Combustion Chamber: 60cc
Intake Runner: 210cc
Intake Valve: 2.02"
Exhaust Valve: 1.60"
Closed Spring Pressure: 140 lbs. @ 1.800"
Open Spring Pressure: 370 lbs. @ 1.100"
Retainer Material: Steel
Valve Seal Material: Viton

I don't know much about heads tho,:(

what if I ran shorty headers with 1-5/8" Primary Tubes?

Well that '81 302 is essentially a turd and it will need alot of internal improvements to really be a good performer. Heads and a cam are a good start. And be careful, alot of 302s were mixed up with Ford greatest brainchild, the ever-so-cruddy 255ci. So be sure 100% that you DO NOT have a 255! Otherwise you might as well toss it in the trash.

The 255 was used in cars and such (just as the Thunderbird) from '80-'83 essentially a smaller bore 302 (3.68 vs. 4.00) and had a set of poorly designed heads and one-off open runner intake manifold with seperate metal valley pan attached to the bottom of the intake.

Also- if you play with post- '80 302s you need to beware of crankshaft balancing changes. Ford changed the balancing of the crank from internal to external in '80. So you need to make sure you can get the proper flywheel that will work with your trans/bellhousing setup or at least know where the stuff you got came from to know if it will work for your engine.

As far as the head department, are you against going aftermarket cast iron rather than aluminum? There are a few really good cast aftermarket heads out there that can be had for as low as $600-800 a pair.
A couple of examples would be RHS's Pro Action #35305-01 or World Products' Windsor Jr #053030-1 or Windsor Sr #053040-1. Other part numbers available for different combution chambers sizes as well as assembled or non assembled. All available via Summit Racing.

I considered the ProComp heads when I started putting my 331 together, but did some on line research and one comment that convinced me to not buy them was "the only thing they are good for is if you want to say you have aluminum heads on your car." I spent a few bucks extra and went with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, and feel they were worth the extra.

I agree that a good set of iron heads in the price range you are talking about might be a better choice.

Don

Also checkout www.therangerstation.com they can give you some good info on this swap as many of the members are into what you have planned.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Dave is right. I play with sbf's and the parts for them are always higher than what the Chevy guys pay............don't know why, they just are. Don

---

'Cause more Chevy parts interchange with all the rest of the engines they make/made.. and there is more of them cause they have enuff boat anchor Fords and Mopars already out there!

Is it true if you use aluminum heads with 10:1 comp. and you can still run pump gas and if you run cast iron heads you can't? I was thinking of getting arp rod bots insted of buying whole new rods to take up the horsepower. How mush power can stock 302 rods take. How much could they handle with arp rod bolts? This is my first rebuild so sorry for all the questions. I was just wanting a street rod to play around in I was just planning on buying a rebuild kit maybe some flat top pistons and a good rv came. I was just going to take my heads and get them worked on at a machine shop but I seen the heads on ebay and figured I could put a couple extra hundred dollars with the machine shop money and buy aluminum heads ready to bolt on. About how much horsepower would a 302 have withe flat top pistons and a good cam with some head work have? how much of a difference would roller rocers and lifters make in horsepower? Once again sorry for all the questions im just curious:HMMM: on my first rebuild im only fourteen. Thank all you guys for the help.:D

a buddy of mine told me if i put 10:1 comp postons with aluminum heads i can still run pump gas but if i run cast iron heads i cant. how much horsepower can stock 302 rods take? cluld they take 350 horsepower if they have arp bolts? also my dad give me a cam it is a crane cam it was give to him and he dont know nothing about it except it has an advertised duration of 292. is that too big? i havent really had time to get on here since i go to school. anyway thanks for the help.:)

oh and the motor is indeed a 302.

the 77 and up 302 were recasted and are not as strong as the older engines. i like the crowler baja torq.cams the 302 one is 264 dur.and 467 lift.lots of low end and will rev to the 6500 rpm range. big cam in a small engine makes for a very unhappy owner.

polish the combustion chambers and that will help with any hotspots in the head

if you want a mud truck, you do not want a choppy idle. truck needs torque.. 302 4x4 isn't hard in a Ranger.. the M5-OD R2 5spd and transfer case from a 300/6 or 302 F-150 4x4 is a bolt in.

however, 4.10 gears are not going to cut it with 36" tires and you will need a 4.56 at least, and you will need about 8" of lift to run those tires and a good lift kit is about $800-1000, unless you go cheapo with a body lift and just cut the fenders, but that looks hideous... axles will also need upgraded. if it's a 4cyl truck, it's got a Dana 28 front, and 7.5" rear. if you put that thru the mud, you will end up with broken hubs and chewed up axles.. if it's a V6 it's a Dana 35 and 7.5", and will chew up just the same... your going to want a Ranger 8.8" axle, and a Dana 44 from a Cherokee to do a solid axle swap... if you don't, anyone who knows anything about 4x4's/ mud trucks will know yours is a pavement princess just by looking at it... really tho, 33's are more than enough tire for a Ranger, and you could get by with a Dana 35 front with them, but you would want it built a bit and run Warn lockers

The ranger is a v6 ranger. I have an 8.8 front and rear out of an explorer and I was going to run 3.73 gear with 31's or 33's with a 4 speed transmission. I wasn't wanting that choppy of an idle just a noticeable cam. I think I am going to go with a 280H comp cam. I think im just going to put the motor together now and then later on when I have more $$$ I will put more money into it.

unless you weld on new spring pads, an explorer 8.8" will lower the rear about 2.5".. Explorers and Rangers both used Dana 35's in the front. but even the D35 won't like 36" tires

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt167

unless you weld on new spring pads, an explorer 8.8" will lower the rear about 2.5".. Explorers and Rangers both used Dana 35's in the front. but even the D35 won't like 36" tires

---

what about those peices that were on the explorer that the rear leaf springs were mounted to? if anything i can add another leaf or two right? oh, and the ranger was a 4x4 with the factory 2" lift blocks in the rear so maybe thats how you figure the 2.5" difference. my dads used little 7.5's in mustangs and thunderbirds with bigger motors and more power and never tore a rear end out but he did bend the little pin that holds the spiders in place. i figured to weld the spiders in the rear or buy a minispool. my dads friend did tear a front end out of a ranger it was a 7.5 by driving in 4x4 with 2 different size tires on the front. my dad said whatever front end i put in it a 7.5 or 8.8 to replace the universals on them with some good new heavy-duty USA made ones. he said thats the main flaw in 7.5 and 8.8 front ends is the u-joints. i would like to put a jeep straight axle in it but i figure thats too much work.:confused::confused::confused:

what about the compression ratio questions?

if you plan on any street driving, do not run a spool or lincoln locker ( welded differential ).. run a detroit locker or a powertraxx if you want a full on locker... as far as an expo axle, they have the leaf springs underneath the axle, where as the Ranger has them ontop of the axle. most all 4x4 Rangers came with 2" lift blocks in the rear but you have to weld new spring pads on the top of the expo axle otherwise, you will lower the truck 4.5" with the lift blocks acting as lowering blocks.. 7.5 will not like 36" tires, that's not a hp issue, 36" are pretty heavy and the 7.5 is just too weak

Jeep SAS conversion is a common upgrade for Rangers.. just need to weld a few mounts to the frame..
and as far as compression, it all depends on what kind of gas you want to run.. if your ok with 90+ octane at $3.50+ per gallon, then run around a 9.5:1 compression with alloy heads...

BLAH, BLAH, BLAH. Jerry, you're talking about boltin' muscle on a midget. Forget about that weak-suck 302 and step up to a man's playtoy. Buy a good-runnin' 460 4X4, yank the body off it, shorten the wheelbase to whatever a Ranger is and bolt the Ranger body on top of the bad boy frame. Cheap and bulletproof. No muss, no fuss, no broken parts. Blow all the other musclebound midgets into the ditch.

GO BIG OR GO HOME!!! :whacked::D:LOL::eek:**)

I would do a 393 stroker. it'll still fit in the Ranger bay, and sit on the stock frame using Ford Mustang engine mounts ( same thing as the advance adapters mounts for ~$250 less ).. I'v also seen full 70's F-150 4x4 drive train swapped in.. solid axle D44 front, 9" rear

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by techinspector1

BLAH, BLAH, BLAH. Jerry, you're talking about boltin' muscle on a midget. Forget about that weak-suck 302 and step up to a man's playtoy. Buy a good-runnin' 460 4X4, yank the body off it, shorten the wheelbase to whatever a Ranger is and bolt the Ranger body on top of the bad boy frame. Cheap and bulletproof. No muss, no fuss, no broken parts. Blow all the other musclebound midgets into the ditch.

GO BIG OR GO HOME!!! :whacked::D:LOL::eek:**)

---

yeah i would like to do that but i really dont have the stuff to do it i have everything for the direct swap in ford the ranger.

how nuch of a difference is there in an f-series and a ranger frame? how much work would it take to put a ranger body on a full size ford frame?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by techinspector1

blah, blah, blah. Jerry, you're talking about boltin' muscle on a midget. Forget about that weak-suck 302 and step up to a man's playtoy. Buy a good-runnin' 460 4x4, yank the body off it, shorten the wheelbase to whatever a ranger is and bolt the ranger body on top of the bad boy frame. Cheap and bulletproof. No muss, no fuss, no broken parts. Blow all the other musclebound midgets into the ditch.

Go big or go home!!! :whacked::d:lol::eek:**)

---

get down with your bad self!