no .. just dont try to get 500 hp out of yours .. i thought you originally wanted a "show " engine ... ;).. you should have known this would morph into a how much you can or cant get argument :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by V8juggernaut
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no .. just dont try to get 500 hp out of yours .. i thought you originally wanted a "show " engine ... ;).. you should have known this would morph into a how much you can or cant get argument :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by V8juggernaut
didn`t mean to put a damper on this thread .. iv`e got a picture of a blown 302 car from the 80`s that i remember but i cant post it .. this place gets aggravating sometimes :mad: .. well maybe later then
Hey V8
here is a link to ebay where they sell the 302 Dart block for 1995.00 with free shipping to buisness address or address with loading dock. Otherwise 69.00 more. I'll keep looking localy for a used one and post if I find one for you. eBay Motors: Dart small block Ford SBF Sportsman 302 block 31354175 (item 110199802248 end time Feb-25-08 15:47:10 PST)
They are expensive! But I bet it will last a life time!:D
Do not be scared of a repaired or sleeved block in one of these aftermarkett blocks ,people get scared when they see sleeve and the price is usually pretty low,if the sleeve was installed correctly it is just as good as new.
Even if it needs machine work and repair,at around 600 to 1000 dollars these make good deals,especially since the power exspectations are not the main concern,you could do 500 or soo in a repaired block and not even stress it at all.
Racing junk has some used stuff on there .......
I had a World Man-o-War 347 short block built for my 289 Cobra after I spun a bearing in the original bored over 289 "K" code, @ 325 bhp on a dyno at 5800 rpm. The #4 piston had scored the wall so bad that it would have needed to, ideally, been re-bored but since it was at near wall limits sleeveing would've been the only other option. I opted to bite the bullet and got the 347 about $5.5 k including shipping---ouch!
I salvaged the heads and intake and other misc., I was running Weber 48 IDA stack induction, 4-2bbl carbs., from the old engine. When we got the engine finished we did a dyno break-in, then ran the engine on 3 dyno tests, it was putting out an average 358bhp @ 5800 rpm, redline was estimated at aprox 6400 rpm --although the shop owner and mechanic that helped me with the build felt that the engine would be very capable of running a 7200 redline with no problem.
I researched and checked the Dart blocks, et al. and for durability and performance I think the Man-o-War hd blocks are the best value for money spent and properly built deliver awesome performance.
I do know that though the original "K" code engine was quite a performer it was like night and day in performance comparison. MY lil' pos really started to scream after it's transplant and I could give the BB Ford guys a run for the money.
Horsepower and performance costs money, no two ways about it, and until recently, if you were Running the Blue Oval you were paying premium price for performance compared with a Chevrolet.
Back in the days of Y-Block Fords (yeah - I'm THAT old), I used a couple of 312cid blocks that had sleeves - and never had a bit of trouble. The big ache with those engines was the bottom end - but when you have a bunch of parts, you do with what you have. If I had used the 292"........Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
A good sleeve with the proper installation is absolutely no problem. As a matter of fact, one version of the Ford flathead was OEM sleeved, the '40 - '41s, if memory serves me.
I have built numerous roots type supercharged motors. We actually did some R&D for B&M a long time ago when they first came out with their mini roots type superchargers. One of my motors is in their supercharger handbook and was used in some of their advertisements.
First, a 6-71 is not too big for a 302. A bigger supercharger can be spun slower creating less heat (roots type superchargers are notorious for creating excessive amounts of heat), being more reliable and easier on the crank snout.
There are actually two 6-71's. A standard size rotor and a big rotor. They are identical on the outside. The big rotor 6-71 uses the same diameter rotors used in 8-71's, 10-71's 12-71 and 14-71 jimmys. (They just get longer as the blower gets bigger) I can't remember the displacement of the small rotor 6-71 right this second but can look it up tonight after work. The big rotor 6-71's are getting hard to find, so you will probably end up with a small rotor 6-71 which is no big deal considering it's going on a 302.
You will need a good steel balancer (a stock balancer WILL split) and you should consider double keying the crank. As long as you don't overdrive the bejesus out of it you won't need a crank hub.
As for a cam, try a hyd. 234/244 @ .050 with about .488/.510 lift. Compression should be around 7.5:1 since a roots blower produces ALOT more heat than the efficient screw or centrifugal superchargers and should accommodate 91 octane pump gas with approx 7-8 PSI of boost. If you have any pinging, a MSD boost retard will cure that.
As for carburetion, two 600 Holleys should work just fine, but I prefer 2 750 D/P Holleys.
Hope this helps.