Yep, the D0OE's and C9OE's are the ones to get. I have half a dozen C9OE's and they perform great.
Printable View
Yep, the D0OE's and C9OE's are the ones to get. I have half a dozen C9OE's and they perform great.
I looked for gt40p heads called every wrecker in manitoba. Asked ford they want about as much as aluminum heads from any other place. I also asked them if they had any D00E heads nothing anywhere.
Im not sure how ford product info works but I asked for replacement heads for a 69 to 74 windsor would they give me heads that had less performance for that.
I checked the aftermarket iron heads and the only ones that can be got arround here are roush heads that are about 800 a piece. I dont really buy things from ebay or know how or trust that it would even get here before summer is over. So im not too sure what to do.
as for the combustion chambers size i was hopeing someone here could help me out with that. The heads i have now have 69cc chambers and 178 145
Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
They started installing them on Explorers in '97 and ran thru the 5.0L run in that SUV. And I missed a complete pair at $50 a couple of years ago.
Weather getting good? Snow is being predicted for the Great Northeast tomorrow and Thursday. And I have my '31 to paint this month while my wife will be in England. Lotsa luck.
Thanks Dave, going to go looking for a set of the GT40P's....Probably not today though, it's snowing again!!!! Doesn't look like a good day at all for going scrounging!!!!
A little spring snow stopping a junk (oops, recycling) yard tour???:LOL: :whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Yup.... Doesn't take much at all anymore to convince me to just stay home and work in the shop.....:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Oh well - we're getting it shipped in from the Mid West tonight and tomorrow and hope it isn't too much to stop me from going to a swap meet this weekend. Maybe the GT40s will still be available. Now, off to work on the carQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Huh got the heads today. They have DOOE cast into them. and the valves are 1.84 1.54 so this must mean the combustion chamber is 60.9?
Anyways one of the heads had C90Z-6049 ARS written on the end of it in a sharpie. anyone know what that means
Also the heads had green paint on them and appeared to be brand new. New Valves springs rockers. The springs has a yellow paint marker stripe on them. I dunno if this has anythin to do with anything. ?? But these heads are the good ones right?
I was thinkin they might be nos heads?
C90Z should actually be C90E for '69-'80 351W heads.Quote:
Originally Posted by zackmx
6049 is the base Ford part number for cylinder heads
D0OE should have a suffix C or G
The chamber size is +/-60cc
They may be factory service heads
They Sound good to me - but before you use them check in the exhaust port for an EGR hump that some of them have. If it's there, it should be ground down to follow the exhaust runner shape for better flow. Don't worry about the EGR hole after grinding as it will not make any difference and will eventually fill with carbon.
that hump is on the top of the chamber? How much power will it rob?
It would depend on several factors such as carburetion, camshaft, and so on. Let's just say you can get a 'seat of the pants' increase. Hp wise, there is some. Economy wise, ditto. Total numbers - not measureable without a before and after dyno run.
What it boils down to is ease of engine breathing which is efficiancy.
well would it be worth doing it if i had a rv cam long tube hedders 670 street avenger electric fan "i dunno if that really does anything" and if im donna do it do i have to take out the valves?
Bottom of link you will see head info .
http://www.mustangii.net/head.asp
It's worth some Hp and efficiancy - but like I said, without a before and after dyno test - who knows. 5, 10 or....??Quote:
Originally Posted by zackmx
You should disassemble the heads - you scatter metal chips all over everthing in sight when you grind.
While you have the heads apart, you might as well install 3/8" screw in rocker studs. Easy job - pull out the OEM press in studs, tap with qualitynew and sharp 7/16" taps, starting with a taper and finishing with a plug or bottoming tap(the stud hole is already the right size), then screw in place with some Loc-Tite.
whats so good about 3/8 studs other than they are bigger? And do roller rockers alone do anything at all? like how much hp on a bone stock motor. JW cause my friend got some from a swap meet and he wont shut up about how cool they are and look and stuff.