valve help

hey guys i am helping my son adjust his valve in his 65 mustang 289 eng we had it rebuild in jan this year and the other day we started to hear a pecking so we try to adjust it and evertime we tighten it down it would go away then come back so we thought we had a bad lifter ( hyd ) and we changed it and now we have another doing the same thing so do you think we are have a bad run on lifters or what i have cut a set of old valve cover off so we can adjust them running i have back them off and little til they peck and tighten them dowm till they stop is that the right way ?

i need help please

the only thing we did was add a mild cam does that matter

i was out there a min ago and the peck is there got me i don't know if there are more bad lifters or what

so i fi loose the rocker til it starts to peck and then start tighten it down 1/4 at a time til it stops then do i keep tighten it down 3/4 more 1/4 at a time given the eng to stable in between????

we are getting the lifter from advance doea that matter???

ok i will give it a try that way and see i do have plenty of oil coming out of the rod ,, do you think i have do any damage to the eng so far ? and why do you think all at once we are haveing trouble with these i would have thought it would be too soon,, he did a dyno run a short while back i ask him if it was too soon he said he it was after breakin got me

thanks for all the info

now its got woundering if i should replace them all at once cause i have to pull the intake every time man that a job new gaskets draining anti freez got me thinking now you know

ok be back later out to the garage lol

ok i think i got them still sounds funny but the covers are off so i am putting the covers on and take it for a speen maybe still have other bad i will see

well here s the update i got everything on and i still heard a loud peck so i went for a drive and i really got on it and it went away really so i started just put put around it came back so i got it it again and it went away sounded real good so what does that mean myabe a oil change wil help it has't been a long time on the oil that is in there now i know my son addeda can of stp ???? what do you guys thaink ??

maybe it got 2000 on the rebuild i guess we need to change the oil and see what happens then i have done all i know to do thanks to you all here you have been a great help walking me through it i'll keep you posted and maybe others will know in the future

heres something i want you to do... if you are running stock stud mount rockers... take the valve covers off and run a straightedge across your vavle studs.... this is a common problem with some of the stock rocker setups if you add even just a mild cam.... if one or two studs seems a little higher.... then whats happening, is your rockers are trying to go further than they are slotted for, they will pull the studs out of the heads.... i've seen it happen on about 20 or so engines now..... have the studs replaced by a skilled machinist.... and put on roller rockers....

well we changed oil we use a syn blend 15w 30 i think that we use here were i work its real good oil and things seem to be ok still here something kinda fant maybe a little deeper sounding so he will drive it a little and see

thanks for all the input guys

How was the cam broke in. Does it have the right valve springs for the cam? If the valve springs have to much pressure it will destroy your cam overtime. Fore a mild hydraulic cam you should have no more than 330 pounds of open pressure. If you have to keep adjusting you you valves it probaly means your cam is going flat. When you install the new lifters vary the rpm 2000 2500 rpm to get a good wear pattern other wise you will be buying more lifters and praobly a new cam. Next time you have you valve covers of while the engine running check to see if the pushrods are spinning if they are not spinning shut it off that means the lifters are not spinning and that will cause your cam to go flat. Usualy if your lifter are spinning it will destroy you cam in a matter of minutes. So that is proabaly not your problem.

we use the stock springs the eng builder ssaid they were fine and i did notice that one of the nuts is tighen down more than the other just a wee bit and the push was turning real good ,, we change the oil we use a stright 30 w and didn't really like it it was real clear and so we change it right then to the oil we use in the shop were i work its a 15 w 30 a syn type its real green and things seems to be real good now sounds fine maybe a fant sound real fant so now we just saw that the carb had a little drip after shut off so now we need to adjust the float things never stop on these old cars my son is see first man what it means to own a 40 year old car its good for him its like quick sand the more you do you deeper you go

thanks again guys i will let you all know

i know that quicksand feeling all too well.... lately the way i do cars is build the motor before i find the car.... once i have the motor done... then i find the car i wanna stick it in...its a quick way to make profit on cars too... I've been buying things that look decent, need new paint and the interior freshened but have no motor or tranny... and then i put it together, throw some paint on it and sell it to make at least $2k-3k profit

so now we have the car running ok i guess he still want the know if the 4 bbl is kicking in and we put a elect fan on last night also its a pucher so when at red lights he can just flip a switch and it might keep it cooler he already bought a stock 3 core rad ,, stock 5 blade and shroud he want to drive the car but the money is killing him ,, whats the big deal with a carb spacer do you think he needs one or not he is runnning a 600 cfm holley on a performer intake ?? he says yeah he would help

carb spacer might help build a tiny bit more low end torque.... might be noticeable... might not....

does it matter were the break booster and the pcv is hooked up i have a spot on the carb base and 1 spot on intake manifold

pcv to carb base , brake booster to manifold....

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ???

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ???

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ??? it drops about 350 now ,, maybe the pcv is bad it rattels a lot ?

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ??? it drops about 350 now ,, maybe the pcv is bad it rattels a lot ?

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ??? it drops about 350 now ,, maybe the pcv is bad it rattels a lot ?

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ??? it drops about 350 now ,, maybe the pcv is bad it rattels a lot ?

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ??? it drops about 350 now ,, maybe the pcv is bad it rattels a lot ?

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ??? it drops about 350 now ,, maybe the pcv is bad it rattels a lot ?

is that the way it goes ??? can i ask why does it matter i just want to know ,,, the car is running real good now and idels good even when it changes gear from park to drive ??? it drops about 350 now ,, maybe the pcv is bad it rattels a lot ?

could be..... the reason you go pcv to carb and brake booster and transmission to manifold is because the difference in vaccum......the vaccum reacts differently at the carb base then it does at the manifold.... the carb base is affected by all cylinders while the manifold is only affected by the cylinder it connects to.... which means you only get vaccum at certain times.... sometimes you'll run into problems when you hit your brakes it'll miss on that cylinder... i'm not the expert and vaccum sources though so i cant fully explain it

sorry about all the post i was haveing trouble

sorry about all the post i had trouble,,, i check all the studs and they are all the same thank god but we still have a pecking coming from the second fron last on drivers side i will try to run the valves again and see what happens ,,, we changed the vac. hoses around like you said too
thanks for all the help so far hope we can get it right