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Thread: Newly rebuilt fe390 still smoking after intake redo. Leak Down Test? Wrong pcv valve
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks everyone for your replies. No I won't be breaking it down any time soon. I took it out today for a good run and had a lot of fun as I always do when driving it. I'm going to put a few hundred more miles on it and then take some more readings just to see if they're any changes for the better. THe main thing here that I was concerned about is that this engine wasn't smoking in the beginning when it was just starting out getting broke in. This developed after the first couple hundred miles. Maybe this is normal. This is my first rebuild and I have learned a lot from everyone. Thanks for the knowledge you have shared with me. Good Karma coming your way. Thanks for putting up with my ignorance. I hope others will benefit from this.
    techinspector1 and DennyW like this.

  2. #47
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    ((This developed after the first couple hundred miles.))
    Ok, Now I know what happened...
    During the first miles, you must do a ring seat in process, or, it then just starts to glaze the cylinders, and not seat the rings. In other words, it polished the walls, and once that happens, it cannot seat any farther. It will take many miles, usually before you finally seat the rings, maybe. Some times, they will never seat once that happens.

    Here is what I have told all mt engine builds to people. Actually, I do this, and then explain it to them, and how to drive the vehicle once they pick it up...

    I like to do a 30 miles per hour, second gear only, we don't want it to be shifting gears, just one gear that can accelerate from low to medium rpm range. Accelerate at a steady rate to full throttle to 60-70 miles per hour. Let off the gas, and let it wind down to 30 again, and repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 60-70 miles per hour at least ten times. One after the other. That's always worked for the initial seating of the rings, in a stock everyday, or light hi-performance street motor. What this does is thrust the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating. Afterwards, drive it normal, and let the engine heat stabilize before you shut it down. Then, just drive it normally for a 100 miles or so, and watch everything to make sure there are no problems. The full ring seat takes a little longer to fully seat the rings to the cylinder walls, but that's ok. The purpose of a gradual ring seating, and normal type drive for a 100 + miles or so, is to give all the parts a little getting to know each other, and working well together, as I call it.
    I have had a few friends who believe in go or blow seating, but once in awhile, that doesn't work to well. Because it blows.
    Drive vehicle normally but avoid sustained high speed during the first 100 + miles.
    After this, it still may take 1,000 miles or so to really seat into the cylinders. You will know, cause just cruising about 40 to 60, all of a sudden, it will feel like you took your foot off the brake. You have to watch for this action, but, it will happen.

    But, if your already past this part. You can still try the seating in process. This may give you a little better chance. Other than that, BON AMI is certainly something to try... If that doesn't work, well, tear down, hone, and give it another try. This time do the ring seating process first... That is all.
    Last edited by DennyW; 04-13-2017 at 05:17 PM.
    40FordDeluxe likes this.

  3. #48
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks Denny. I'll keep my fingers crossed and keep driving.
    DennyW likes this.

  4. #49
    dstiebs1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Mic up your Cylinders and Pistons to be sure they are within specs.

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