Yet another cam question.. 292H Cam?

I am looking at the 292H cam kit, K33-240-4.

Includes:
292H cam (.560 lift)
834-16 HYDRAULIC FLAT TAPPET LIFTERS
2108 TIMING CHAIN SET
924-16 Valve Springs
741-16 Retainers
612-16 Valve Locks
505-16 Valve Seals

Motor is a 1969 Ford 390 FE Improved Performance.
750cfm vacuum secondary Holley
ported and polished Edelbrock Streetmaster intake
C8AE-H Heads w/ Ported Intakes, Ported and polished exhaust, valve job
Non-Adjustable Rockers 1.76 ratio
Full Length Headers to 2.5'' pipe
C6 transmission with Wide Ratio Gears
3.10 Rear End gears

Would the 292H be too radical? Prior to this I was thinking the 270H

Personally I would think the 270H would be better for the street with a broad power band.
That 292H would be winding the piss out of the motor unless you've done alot of work
to the bottom end of your motor. If the bottom end is close to stock. I would go with the
270H. If you didn't put in stronger rod bolts with some partially grooved clevite
bearings and balancing I would go with the smaller cam. Otherwise I think your
looking for trouble in the not to distant future.
Kurt

Kurt has given you the correct answer.
The camshaft in any motor is not a stand-alone piece, it has to be matched with all the other motor and drivetrain components that comprise a "combination" of parts that will work well together toward a common goal. The very first thing you need to know before you begin to choose a cam is the exact static compression ratio of the motor. Knowing this will allow you to choose the correct intake valve closing point to make the proper cylinder pressure for the fuel you plan to use.

The Streetmaster intake is a fuel-mileage/throttle-response piece from the 70's that will stall just about the time the motor would be gettin' up on the cam with the 292 cam, so it would not be a good partner to the cam.

The 3.10 rear gear won't work well with that cam either. With that gear, you need a near-stock cam.
You'd also need a very loose converter to use the 292 cam, like the timing card says...3000 rpm stall minimum and a 3500 would work better. Figure on paying $500 to $800 for a good converter, such as a Hughes. (Jim Hughes and I have been friends for a long time, he makes good stuff).

Here's the timing card so that other members can play along......
33-240-4 - Magnum
You see where it says "use 9.5:1+", well what they mean is MINIMUM 9.5:1. Here's a rule of thumb chart that I wrote and it shows that you'd be better off using 11.0:1 with this cam.....the 9.5:1 would yield a very weak dynamic compression ratio and very low cylinder pressure (a dog).
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

If you want a performance boost you can feel in the seat of your pants and a muscle car idle, install this cam and change the intake to an Edelbrock Performer RPM.....
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=932&sb=0
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7105/
Both the cam and the intake come on at 1500 rpm's and will pull hard to 5500. Install a 14" x 4" air filter so the motor can breathe. This suggestion assumes that you built the motor with a static compression ratio of 10.0:1 or a little less.

Be certain to degree the cam in according to the cam card, Ford had some spooky crank gears in the past with several degrees of cam retard cut into them. Here's everything you need to know to degree the cam....
http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.php

Also, here's a tutorial explaining the precautions that must be addressed in the installation of a flat tappet camshaft.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

Not really a Ford guy,but I do wonder if you could run a 292 cam without additional machine work to the heads. Maybe some Ford guys could fill in the blanks. The 270 can is a much better choice unless you goals is a very radical street race gas or atleast gas additive street car.