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hi i just bought a 427 side oiler for my 68 fastback and i was wondering if anyone knows if it is a bad idea to keep the aluminium rods that are in it? i heard they could possibly stretch and that would suck.. just wondering ,, i am completely new to this motor and dont know much about it except that it is badass.. thanks for the help..
Aluminum rods are pretty much a race only deal, I'd be for replacing them with a good set of H Beam rods...
some of the hi end alum rods can be used on the street some of the new alloys are far better then what they used in the good old days. H or a good I beam rod rod is what i use most all the time
Aluminum rods that have been torqued up for a long period of time will fatique crack along the threaded portion of the rod to the out side
I have heard that most aluminum parts have a certain life to them and will fail after soo many cycles,roller rockers, rods, etc.
I would be hesitant to use them in that rare of a block.....:eek:
thanks for all the replies.. the motor has about 15 hours on it.. it was put in a fresh water boat for 15 hours then i took it out.. it has aries 13.5-1 pistons and it ran on alchohol .. everything in the motor has 15 hours since build but i was hesitant with the rods.. my plan is to get some different pistons and bring it down to about 10-1 compression and change the rods.. it has a crazy cam with a lift in the mid 700's and triple valve springs with roller rockers .. what do you guys think about my plan or any advice on what i am doing? thanks
also my mustang has a 9" rear end already and ill be putting a toploader 4 speed in with the engine..
I'll offer you the same advice I did to another member who was asking about an FE. Go directly to the horse's mouth, Barry Rabotnik.
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Max-Perf...2690474&sr=1-1
you need to just let me have that mill and i`ll find you a 352 or something to put in the stang .. save you a lot of worry
i already have a nice 302 with aluminium heads in it, ,, i just know this motor will be awesome and it is a once in a lifetime for me .. it kinda fell into my lap and i am pretty excited about it.. why do you say "save you a lot of worry"..
short runs you can run hi 700 lift cams on the street i done it for over 20 years so i think i know . take the rods out if you want BUT if hi rent hi alloy rods like BME rods i would use them , call bill he not to bad to talk too. Howards say there rods can go 30.000to 40.000 miles .and GRP s can work to . i did hear of a guy that used old M/T 3 beam rods in is towtruck . yes every thing has a cycle rate so ? . if you pull the rods you could go to a good I or H beam but they may have to be custome on size . i have one customer that buys used Bill Miller rods and GRPs and i check them and he runs the dog $hit out of them. the only rod he lost was a new H beam steel rod ?? busted off at the fork end . i would of not bet on that but not evey thing is not a sure thing . by the time you go thru this engine steel rods .lower cr pistons. smaller cam. smaller springs. reset up the heads. new push rods. gaskets . rings. bearings. and????? i would maybe go with a PSI dual spring and run the hell out of it thats what it was built for??????
if its a street machine dump the rods.i always had good luck with the lamans rods.
and you are saying on his build it has a stock CH on the pistons ?:3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodstude
a few people keep telling me to run it how it is but i want it to last..
it has : mid 700's lift cam
13.5-1 compression
aluminium arias pistons
triple valve springs
ported and polished heads
roller rockers
aluminium connecting rods.
.. i just want to make a good running motor .. i maybe drive it once every two weeks for a couple hours and thats it.. i kinda in a rut on what i should do.. being new to the whole motor thing i am just looking for some advice..
well i have used parts like this in many builds all but the rods but like i said that would not make me pull them out it has alot to do with who made the rods .you need to keep ahead of the parts from going away . your engine as it sits would be a engine getting pulled evey year to look at parts and check stuff before it falls part so miles on the street can be abit hard on some parts at get oil from oil splash . low speed low oil splash can hurt some roller lifters.. .so solid rollers i like Hippo and would go to aPSI or ISKy gold tool room valve spring more of a endurance dual spring . OR put it in run it look at the springs every year and pull the intake off every other year and check the lifters pull the rods out every 5000 miles throw them out and buy new .10.000 miles maybe a life time ?if not you realy need to rethink your engine. as engine like this only seen runs under a 120 race miles .then gets look over . but your not running it like a race engine the pistons crank .cam. valves .should hold up good . lifters to if hippo . rocker could some are better then others .you have alist of the parts in the build would help i know who,s lifters and parts hold up the best for stuff like this i built 12to1 up to 14.8 , 750 lift roller street engines for over 20 years for street use ONLYQuote:
Originally Posted by stanger68
i just talked to the guy and the connecting rods are howards .. the cam specs are 310 lobe center, 785 lift and 312 duration.. thanks for your input pat i appreciate it.. i think i might just get some race gas and put this thing in how it is.. i never really beat the crap out of it, yes i will jump on it and play but i wont be racing it.. for how much i drive it i wouldnt mind it being crazy.. he said the dyno test was 797 horsepower on race gas.. i know he spent a pretty penny on it and i got it for 2k.
well Howards rods in there add say they can take street miles and it has to do with heat but they should take 10.000 miles EZ i know on my titanium crower rods$$$$ they would not tell me that for miles:CRY: i have some engines like that its fun to go for a short blast .then put it back before the good guys want to haul you a wayQuote:
Originally Posted by stanger68
We used to run Howard's rods and cams back in the 70s in our fuel cars--they used something like 2014 cross rolled forgings( what ever that meant) and was a lot stronger than the more common 60xx that the other companies used--I remember seeing some specs about the strength changing with temps above 400* but really you shouldn't have oil temps that high anyway---
I have had a set of Childs and Alberts setting a few years in my bbc race engine that split down the threaded part of the rod bolt hole
Why go with a 4 speed? If I were building a car to actually drive it would get something with overdrive. A TKO600 would go nicely behind that 427. What rear end gear will you be using?Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger68