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After rebuilding, boring 30 over, line honing, new pistons, shaving crank blah, blah,blah. My 428 is still leaking oil when under a load. Sitting in the shop it will never drip until you drive it and after 30 mins you have a nice 2: wide x 6" long oil puddle. I took everything out and out a new rear main in since that is the area where it was dripping. It was good for two days and now big puddle again??? Is the crank out of balance or internals off???:confused: Please help
Is it oil wet in the bellhousing???? what did you use for side seals on the main cap?
is it a rope rear main seal if so it was not put in rigth or the rear seal is in the wrong way could be one 1/2 the upper or lower part or the hole thing
The bellhousing is wet. I didn't replace the seals myself. Too busy trying to pay the bills working. When we took the original rear main out and compared it to the new one the old one looked a bit smaller but even the new one is leaking badly. Do you think it has anything tho do with internals, balancing etc?
no i it is the seal or rear cam plug or galley plugs but i would think it is the rear seal in wrong
When we first put the motor in we had to resel all the plugs by the oil gallery because they were pumpming out. Is it better to use a rope style seal or is that the only kind they make. I didn't see what they put in.
there is some tricks to put a rope seal in the right way if that is what it has there are some new seals now that fit were the rope was and is a lip seal you will have to talk to the guy what they put in it if the lip seal is to the out side it will push oil out
Just a thought here. Any chance the "freeze plug" that goes in to the back of the block behind the cam installed correctly? If I recall correctly, that plug should be installed backwards (the dome facing out). I've seen a couple FE's leak oil because that plug was put in wrong.
i just did a 360 mopar and in the kit it used a moon plug on the cam. i allways use loctie 620 on all block plugs and then on all back plugs on the block get sealed with J B weld or lord high epoxy then it is a done deal. race engine all plugs get J B weld on them but the pipe plugs
I'll take it all apart on Monday and let you know what this mysterious leak is from.
Just wondering....you are running a PCV and vented breather aren't you, and how did you seal the front and rear ends of the intake?
If the block is really a 69 it should have threaded lifter oil galley plugs. Those started after 68 and limit the weeping to about nil correctly installed. Also the rear cam plug (besides being installed correctly like LA said) can use a bead of sealer around the outside edge. Also be sure the oil helix grooves -> ////// on the seal surface of the crank are present. If that area of the crank was worn, turned or touched for some odd reason the rear seal will leak. Also be sure the side seals were used installed correctly and tops filled with sealer. Rear main cap gaps sealed as well. Be sure the lip of the seal faces forward and also stagger the seal .250 so they seal gaps don't line up with the maincap gap.
Now... the oil was IN or ON the rear of bellhousing? If on the outside it can be the rear intake or a valve cover leaking. When it drips down can appear to be a rear seal leak.
Are you still selling the car?
THEM //////////////// help control oil if you look at a gm seal and other makes there on the seal and if you get a reverse rotation seal the are the other way and will wick the oil thru the seal lip in a standard rotation engine and you have to be careful not to polish the seal face on cranks with the hash marks on the crank
Do you have a good working PCV system???
Just a note. If the intake isn't even with the edge of the heads oil
will run down the bellhousing
OK ready to shoot the car or myself. We used the JB Weld technique which I was praying worked. There was oil on the lower plug so we put new ones in and JB'd them all. After driving the car for about an hour it has another puddle 3"x6" after sitting for 45 mins. There is a drip soming down the outside of the scatter shield but the puddle is 6" behind that? I wonder if I have a small crack in the block?
I was buying the JB Weld idea specially since there was oil on the lower plug. Welded it and drove for an hour and 4"x6" puddle after 45 mins of sitting. No leaks from valve covers or intake manifold. Double drip lines coming down front of scatter shield but puddle collected six inches behind that??? Cracked block or what??
sorry first post didn't post then it did sorry for the double read
you clean all oil off the plugs before you j b them and you did the cam plug you are saying it leaking above the cam plug ?
i had a bbc i did and was told it was a bad rear seal. i jack the car up look for the oil drip with it running and it had oil driping right out a pan bolt pulled the bolt out wash it with carb cleaner and a dab of rtv on the bolt it was fixed the first time for that .when the oil gets warm and air speed will move the drip from the front of the pan to the back and oil is great for moving along the pan rail or lines
Go to your local parts store...and get some "Oil Dye" Put that in it..drive and use a black light to find exactly where the leak is coming from.
i always use neoprime seals but they have to be put in correctly the open of the seal goes toward the front of the engine. if you put ythe tapered end of the seal toward the front it will leak.rope seals are a good thing to stay away from.have not used them since the 60's. plus the plug at the end of the camshaft did they install one?