Thread: The problem: overheating at idle in drive – stalling when hot.

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The problem continues!

I installed a Holley fuel pressure regulator last night. Started the engine and adjusted it down to 5 lbs. Car ran at idle for 15+ min before it started to run rough and then die. I sounded like it was not hitting on all cylinders. If I revved it up, I could still hear it missing.

I’m going to change out the Pertronix 1 (old style) ignition and the Pertronix high voltage coil back to the original points and original coil. Could a coil shorting out or the Pertronix ignition going wacky when it gets to a specific temp cause this kind of problem.

It was raining last night and I did not take the car out of the garage. It was about 90 degrees in the garage as I was testing. The TEMP never really when ALL THE WAY UP, (It just has tick marks no numbers) it stayed just to the high side of the midway marker. On the highway it stays just to the high side of the ¼ marker.

I’m still not sure if the head gasket is on backwards. How long would it take to get all the way to the H (I know how stupid it sounds without having an actual temp gauge) if the gaskets where on wrong? I thought there is a head alignment dowel pin that would make installing the gaskets backwards very difficult. As a last resort I will pull the heads. A real pain on this show car.

Also I posted some pictures on the photo gallery.

ANY OTHER SUUGESTIONS????

Thanks again for all the help and responses.

If it can idle for even a few minutes without boiling over, I doubt it's the gaskets in backwards. They have a big opening in one end, if that opening is at the front all the water flows through the front of the engine and the back cylinders overheat very quickly.
You said it was rebuilt 8 years ago. Did it sit for years without any coolant in it? The metal blockoffs might have corroded through, allowing a little water to circulate through the front holes and causing a slower heating condition.