New to 390 FE looking for good advice

My only ford engine experience is with my current 56 F-100 272 Y-block. I'm trading my mother a newer toyota commuter for her 65 Galaxie 500 with a 390 FE and C6 auto. The car is in great condition. I know the past owner before her as well and know that the engine has been pulled for cleaning, but most likely never rebuilt. It has around 80k mi on it. My plan for the car is to build somewhat of a sleeper (Its the 4dr Sedan) and find the best way to get around 400+hp out of the 300hp 390. Here are my questions:
Should I consider a fresh rebuild before trying to crank out more power out of this engine?
What is the best way to obtain this horsepower from this engine? I'm open to any suggestions at this point, though preferably from those with the most experience with this engine and performance.
Lastly, what can I expect to be putting out for this project in the long run ($)?
Thanks for any suggestions,
Mike

390s are good tough engines, but because of how old the motor is and never been rebuilt, i would go the rebuild method..... you've got a few options when you do this, you can stroke her out, use flat top pistons, install a good matched roller cam, 4bbl aluminum intake(cuts about 50lbs of weight off of a 390), you could add aluminum heads or just work out the ones you've got, costs are almost even when fully doing a set of cast irons and buying new aluminum heads (the aluminum will still give better performance so thats how i would go) with about 5-8k of money budgetted in your motor you could easily hit and even surpass 400hp

Thanks thesals, For a 1st time rebuilder of an FE would you recommend that I take the engine to a good reputible shop, or would it be a mistake to rebuild it myself? I'm a mechanically inclined aircraft mechanic, but have no experience with these engines as I mentioned before. I rebuilt the transmission on my 56 F-100 myself and was surprisingly pleased. I want to make sure that this 390 is done right though and with good parts that will last. Is it possible for a first time engine rebuilder to achieve the same quality results as an experienced
"professional"? I would love to rebuild an engine, but this particular one I want to be done the best possible.

Thanks Denny for the info,
I'm not definately set on rebuilding right now. The engine runs well. I'm just trying to get different opinions from experienced people on how they would go about this type of engine job. Body, frame, running gear, interior and all are great in this car. This is a different type of job for me. My 56 has been more of a ground up job. Thats why I'm concentrating more on engine performance with the Galaxie. Thanks again for all the info,
Mike

well if you do aircraft stuff you should have no problem doing an FE engine, much more simple, and much less requirements on tolerances as aircraft stuff, as i know since i fly small planes, you cant pull over in the middle of the air :LOL: .... this stuff should be pretty easy for you, there are some great books out there for building FE motors, and many options you can go with... denny's suggestions are pretty good, if you want to keep on the cheap end, just replace the rods, bearings, pistons/rings, polish the crank hone or bore the cylinders depending, give her a valve job or upgrade to new lighter valves, cam, springs, chain and gears, intake, carb.... the cheap route can be pretty effective too... throw a different stall converter and different gears in the rear and you could spice that baby up quite a bit...... i had a stock 289 64 galaxie convertable only addon to the car was 3.73 gears in the rear and she was a rocket

Alright guys, sounds like a plan. I'll hold off on a complete rebuild until it seems necessary. Until I get out of the military I will be driving this car only occasionally on weekends. Once I get out my goal is to drive it a couple days a week to work and occasionally have some fun with it. I don't intend to build a designated drag car or anything, I just want the power there when I decide to use it. Like I said the engine runs great now, and I just wanted to find out if I should invest in a complete rebuild before putting more power into it. This car has been taken good care of throughout its life and I don't want to do anything wrong with the engine.
Mike

well if she runs good, no problems what so ever and you're not looking to build the power just yet, follow denny's instructions, they're cheap and it will keep the motor nice and happy, add a full tuneup to it as well if you dont know how old everything is, just standard autolite plugs, wires, points, condensor, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil change(i wouldn't run synthetic on it just because of the age of the gaskets they might not take the synthetic too well), new coolant and such.... check out the brakes as well, those old galaxies dont stop too well when the brakes are done

Ok, I'll throw a few thoughts out for you to consider, you might not like what you hear, but you will be happier with the car in the long run.

First off, throw horsepower numbers completely out of the equation..... in your case chances are it will never be on a dyno to find out and it's really only good for bragging rights anyway. You have a car that weighs around 4000 pounds if not a bit more (don't believe me, go weigh it). What you need to concentrate on is building torque. and a lot of it. Fortunalty you have decent engine for that purpose.

First off with an 80K motor the first thing to do is figure out what your going to do first. If you plan on driving it for a while then a few things will need to be looked at due to that age and mileage, and these things can be done with the engine in car.

First if the car does not have an oil gauge, add one. You want to see what the oil pressure is both driving and on a hot idle. If this checks out your next step will be a compression test to see what condition the top end of the engine is in. If these both check out you can likely start with bold on parts that will make the car happier.

At 80K you will want to pull the valve covers and replace the valve seals and the timing cover to replace the timing chain. While your doing this if you find that the valve seals are gone, or the timing chain is missing teeth (nylon gear)......pull the pan (always a fun job...check the shop manual for instructions). What will happen if you don't is that the pieces will eventually plug the oil pickup screen and at some pint will cause the little spring loaded trap door to open allowing pieces into the pump jamming it, twisting the oil pump driveshaft off and causing loss of oil pressure.

If it needs rebuilt, pull the engine go thru it, use quality parts, minimum overbore possible, and turn/polish the crank, keep compression at the 9:1 range or 9 3/4:1 range with aluminum heads. Add the parts listed below. If the engine is sound do the steps below, preferably in the order listed

If you have a sound engine to start with first thing is find out what gears you have in the rear end (there will be a small metal tag attached to one of the rear wend bolts that will list the ratio). At the expense of gas mileage you will probably want about a 3.50 gear to pep the car up a bit. A gear change and will run about $250 in parts, add another $250 if you want a Posi. With your background, get a manual and try setting them up yourself....otherwise $3-500 labor.

You do not have a C6 if it is the stock trans. The C6 were an all aluminum case and I believe the introduction year was 67. I think you will find you have an FMX (or possibly a cruso-matic) both have a cast-iron center section. The FMX is a decent trans, the only problem is that they are not supported well by the aftermarket for things like heavy duty parts and converters.

The old 390s had terribly restrictive exhaust manifolds. Your first step for the engine should be to replace these with headers either aftermarket of if you get lucky a set of cast-iron factory headers. Follow this with a 2 1/2 dual exhaust with a crossover pipe and low restriction mufflers. Your looking $1000-1500 (headers for FEs are high).

The old 390s like a BIT more cam go for something that makes power in the 1200-4500 RPM range RPM range (where you'll be operating almost). It would be a good time to do this when you are doing a new timing chain. Add a new set of valve spring while you at it. $100-200 range.

The factory intake is not all that bad (I'm assuming it is already a 4 BBL.....if it's not chances are you DO NOT have a 390, but a 352), but as mentioned it's heavy. If you elect to keep it, go with either a 650 or 750 (I know I'll hear screaming about the 750 but I think you will find the car a bit more responsive again at the expense of mileage). Carb cost are in the 250-300 range for Edelbrocks.

If you go with an aftermarket intake (you'll pick up a few HP and save a bunch of weight that you will appreciate if you ever have to pull it in car) make sure it in the same RPM range as the cam. Something like an Edelbrock Performer NOT the Performer RPM. About $200-250.

Add electronic ignition, one of the best would be as far as supportability and parts availability would be the 70's Ford Dura Spark unit. With rebuilt distributor, control box and wiring, your looking at around $200.

That should give you a start.

Mike,
Thanks a ton. That gives me more than a good start. I think you covered just about anything I could ask at this point in time. I'm pretty sure with all the info combined from everyone here I should be headed in the right direction now. Your'e right on the trans, Its not a C6. The carb is a 4barrel and the car has the 390 emblem on the side, so it should be a 390. Thanks for the advice on working with the torque. I believe that had quite a bit from the factory already, so it shouldnt be too tough to do. Thanks again to everyone here and I'll print off these posts to keep for reference.
Mike

just so you know that FMX as stated above doesn't have much of an aftermarket when it comes to parts, but they are undoubtedly a very sturdy transmission, probably one of the toughest ford built.... definately use the tranny when you build the car unless you decide to put a manual in it.... in that case send me the tranny :LOL:

Thanks for the info. Its good to know that the transmission is sturdy.
Mike

hello '65.
I've got two 65 parts cars and a 65 LTD hardtop(352) as well as a 66 2 door hardtop.. welcome to the club, it's an addiction.

You'll love your new car. I too am in the market for headers, if you find a great deal, give me a holler.

great advice hear, my first trist with the FE was my '65 F100, been hooked ever since.

Nice buy on the 65 Gal. I just picked up a 64 Merc. Montclair Marauder with the 390, so the info has been great. The main difference with the merc is it has the merc-o-matic transmission, anyone know about that one?

same thing as a cruise-o-matic just different name

I too am putting a Galaxie on the road for "nothing"... mine's a 67.
One thing I'm not, is a BS'er, but I don't think anyone is gonna believe me if this thing works.

new here too. keep asking questions.66 500 xl 390

fmx, cruso-matic tell me more. what are they?

cast iron case 3speed auto transmission..... very durable and made to take an excessive amount of abuse.....not a big aftermarket on them, but they're a pretty solid transmission, not neccisarly for racing, but they can be used for such purpose

I would think at this point if you are considering building the engine for more HP, but limited on funds, you should do a gasket and seal replacement "gasket overhaul" and a good cleaning. If you plan on replacing pistons then you will end up doing rings and bearing and a cylinder hone or sleeve replacement. I would look at the Edelbrock packages that are specifically for the Ford FE motors as Mike P. suggested. I went with the RPM package and gain well over 400HP. I would like to hear more about why Mike P. said to stay away from the RPM and go with Performer. I also got rid of the ford rail valve system and replaced it with Crane roller rockers and hydralic lifters. I changed the torque converter to a 2500 stall converter and went with the MSD 6AL ignition controller (part # 6420), a Blaster SS ignition coil (#8207), a MSD distributor (#8477), and a MSD wire set (#35389). Your cam, water pump, timing chain, manifold, carb., will all be part of the Edelbrock package. How this helps. I love the 390 FE. Lots of potential.

I thought I would post this link. It's a good Carb. sizing calculator.

http://www.usaimports.co.uk/Carb_Calculator.htm

How are those Crane rockers working for ya? I've heard lots of guys having problems with them. I also thought Crane stopped selling these?

Very nice. I did this back in 98' - 00' so its been awhile. Its almost a shame to put covers over them as they are a blue anodized color. They replaced the rail rocker system and after some adjustments everything worked out great.