I'd overbore the block as little as possible. Also if the engine is complete date code correct....heads, block, intake etc...keep the original parts even if you go with the Edel heads and aftermarket intake etc.... What I mean by date code correct is that all the date codes jive within a certain timeframe of the engine being assembled. This way should you ever decide to sell the engine to upgrade or whatever you have all the original parts and can keep your aftermarket parts if you desire. The only advantage to the aluminum heads (besides porting, polishing etc..) is the weight savings. You can port your iron heads, install CJ size valves, new springs, guides, hardened seats... the works and still come out cheaper than a set of stock Edel heads. Plus you already have them. The Keith Craft stage 1 ported Edel heads go for $1600. By all means if the budget allows get some nice aluminum heads with a killer port job. My point is you can also do very well with the iron heads worked over and save some cash. Pistons for the 410 are pretty much off the shelf. Probe has some nice forged dish and flat tops that won't break the bank. They come in std and .030 only though. The less you overbore the block the more life (and rebuilds) you'll have later. As far as going to 4.13 std 428 most likely won't happen. As Tommie said .060-.080 max! That's with std 390 cyl wall cores and even the .080 might not happen coreshift and thickness permitting. You can check and see what cyl wall cores the block was cast with. Knock out the blocks freeze plugs. You should replace them anyway. See if a 17/64" drill bit shank fits snugly between the cyl wall cores. If so it has 390 wall cores. If a 13/64" drill bit shank fits snugly it has 428 wall cores. And the 4.13 bore will more than likely be possible. A sonic map is by far the best way to check thickness and coreshift but the "drill bit test" as it's known is a quick and easy way to see what cyl wall cores the block was cast with. You can convert the 64" bit sizes to suit your bits at home. This is just the standard measurement used as a comparison guide. Check the crank and see if it can be cleaned up with a polish or if it needs to be turned. I think your 410 came with C6AE-A or C rods. You can use these with a set of ARP rod bolts and have a good set of rods. Scat also sells a nice set of capscrew rods. So price and compare everything you do. You'll get the most for your money and a better build from it. It might be better to spend a little more on something new here and there if the price is close to rebuild/refurbish some of the old components.

JMO....

G.